you don't have to disconnect battery...don't ever put key into ignition though as that'll trigger airbag light
durametric will turn airbag light off...it'll tell you why also
airbag light can be seatbelt issue or actual airbag/wiring issue

Sorry to resurrect this old thread.

My passenger side seat has stopped electrically tilting. (I have an early 1997 986 with the basic seats -- electric tilt and manual fore/aft.)

I believe to diagnose the problem I need to get to the electric connector under the seat which will (presumably) mean removing the seat as described in this thread. I'll also need to check it for 12v power at that connector which (presumably) requires turning the ignition to the on position.

Does this mean I absolutely have to go to the dealer to reset the airbag system? (Of course, that won't be the end of the world as the airbag light is actually already on.)

Thanks.

You will be horrified as to how heavy they are! There must be significant weight savings to be had there. The trouble is finding a suitable, stylish, functional replacement for the street.

True, plus I would slide the seat forward first and remove the rear bolts, then slide it back for the fronts. This way, the seat assembly is compacted and easier to withdraw.
Also, 37ft/lbs doesn't sound like a lot, but a 1/2" breaker came handy.

Dont forget to reconnect seat belt electrics
 

I did and got airbag light, minor PIA, but best to avoid

I believe I removed key and disconnected the battery......and no problems. One time I even removed the immobilizer board under the seat.....no issue then either.

Sorry to resurrect an old thread here but it's pertinent to disarming the battery.


Anyhow, wondering if the seats in a 986 can easily be removed while the top is up?

Probably, but why not take advantage of the extra room with the top down? You run the risk of scratching both the seat and the inner door card. I have only taken mine out with the top down.

Due to the limitation of space in my winter storage above the car, I removed both seats byfirst disconnecting four bols per seat and then disconnecting the electrical connection.
Afte that I installed old padded work gloves to the front and back of the seat rails securing them with tape adn lifted the seats out from the car still carefully, but was able to do this without scratchign the interior :dance:
Drivers seat install went well in reverse order, passenger seat iI'm still working on and the re-install is planned for this coming wekend.

Excellent tips on handling the rails with the removal. I really appreciate it!

I'm doing a re-dye on my seats and I'm pulling them and bringing them in the house for 4 or 5 days while I do a proper cleaning, conditioning, and the dye itself. Too cold to do the seats outside right now and besides, rather dye the seats correctly and that calls for a removal.

I have a large carport but if it rains and the wind is just right... the passenger side can get wet. I can cover and "double wrap" the car with the top down but I'd still prefer to keep the top and windows up. Alternative is to lower the top and disconnect the battery and then manually raise it but weighing the effort of disconnecting the ball joints, etc... or simply pulling the seats with the top in place. It's a case of "six of one or half a dozen of another".