Engine Break In Procedures/Waxing
 

Is anyone aware of the engine break in procedures/restrictions? I talked to the dealer and he said there were none. He knows more than I do, but no break in just doesn't seem right to me. What do you guys think? I know this topic was visited before, but wanted to get updated thoughts on the subject.

Also, what wax are you all using on black? :dance:

The dealer is full of something and it is not accurate info, unless things have changed since my purchase in 2001. I got the same BS from my salesman as I was pulling out of the "delivery" area - he leaned in as I started the car and put the top down... "Don, remember, no break in period! " (big knowing smirk included).

Of course, I wasn't going to pull over and read the manual right then. I was taking my new toy home and I could read it there...

I should have. There on page 14 were the "Break in hints for the first 1,000 miles/1,600 kilometers".

I have no idea why the dealers are perpetuating this myth when Porsche specifically covers the topic and states the contrary. I've heard the arguments about "run-in testing at the factory", etc. OK, that sounds great. But if Porsche still recommends taking it easy for the first 1K miles, then that seems like the right thing to do...

Yeah, I got the same thing when I test drove a 996TT last year when I was placing my order for a 996 and during the test drive the sales guy just had me breat the $hit out of the car....I feel sorry for the guy that ended up buying that 996tt.....don't believe anything the salesman tells you. He's only there to sell cars. Talk to the techs if you want info.

I only skimmed the owners manual and yes, I'm one of the guys that never read the directions. I guess I will read it tonight.

I don't understand why the dealers are not being upfront on the break in period. I already bought the car, so tell me how to preserve it right?

Did you change the oil after 1000 miles?

Only made it to 13?
 

Believe me, I know it's hard to tear yourself away from the car for something as mundane as reading the manual, but the answer and hints to your question are on page 14 of the 2005 manual.

2000 mile break-in.

After 1500, I'm getting a little antsy :)

Yeah, most dealers that I have dealt with know jack about the cars they sell and will tell you anything they think you want to hear. My dealer said the same B.S. I knew better and went home and read the manual. Porsche says keep it under 4,200 rpm for the first 2k miles in my book.

Sure enough, page 14. Thanks for the help. Better start driving and reading a lot more!

If you intend to keep your car a long time, personally I would change the oil and filter at 1000.

Otherwise, follow the manual on the oil changes.

Best of luck with your new ride!

:)

Black car? get ready to spend allot of time detailing your P-Car.
nightmares of my previous car come flooding back.

Try the meguiar's NXT car wash soap. They claim it new magic ingredients reduce dust. I thik Black car's were meant for the Porsche detailing favourite from germany Klasse All in ONe and Klasse Sealant glaze. Other products produce similar shines (not Meguiar's or Mothers) but Klasse is the simplest requiring the least amount of product. The two small small bottles will keep you in busines for several years. Use SOnus Acrlyic SPritz after washing or in between layers of Klasse Sealant glaze.
For the interior I keep it German: 1Z vinyl and rubber care for for the dash and tires and 1Z leather care, and a weekly dousing of 1Z cockpit premium. I have tired everything on interiors and these are the best products I've used. Klasse VLRP is also good on the the black plastic.

For the Klasse Sealant, I would multi layer it as quickly as you can. The protection and shine of this product is amazing, esp, on Black.

Returning to the origin of this thread, I always wondered if I would buy a new boxster off a lot or if it would be ordered.

Knowing that boxsters on the lot are driven really hard during test drives, I'd rather not drop 60k or more on a Porsche that has been near-redlined before it's broken in.

Sadly, I don't think I'll ever order a Porsche brand new from the factory... too expensive. The sad part is I have no real way of knowing if the first owner did the right thing and broke in the car properly. :(

Wax
 

I've got a triple-black 02 S and I've tried Maguiar's NXT and P21S. Of the two, the P21S looks better IMHO. It's relatively expensive but it goes on like soft butter and comes up just as easily, leaving quite a deep lustre.

If you really want to do it right, use Klasse All-in-One after washing, then two coats of Klasse Sealant Guard after (letting the first coat sit 8 hours or longer), then the P21S. Go to http://autopia.org and www.autopia-carcare.com for the best info on detailing; it's the Mother Lode for such information.

You can get all the products from the Internet, or pick up Klasse products at Mercedes and Porsche dealers (although they jack up the price quite a bit).

Great advice...thanks! Randallneighbor brought up an interesting point about buying a car straight off the lot or ordering it. Even though it was a bit more expensive, I ordered mine straight from the factory. Now that I think about it, my test drive definitely did not follow the break in procedures. However, my car arrived with 14 miles on it coming straight off the boat. Any idea where these 14 miles came from? Do they test drive the cars at the factory? Drive the cars from the factory to the boat? What gives?

Slogans7, were you referring to applying P21s carnuba wax after the Klasse sealant?

I heard these miles are test track miles in Germany.

I tell you what, I'd pay Porsche a salary to test all the new cars every day :cheers:

Sadly, after driving Porsches all day, every day, it does tend to be like ......driving!

:p

I hope Porsche followed the book
 

Well if they are test track miles, I hope the followed the break in procedures!

I finally got my shipment of Klasse products in the mail and I can't believe the difference. My car only had 14 miles on it, I used the Klasse All-in-One and the sealant and I couldn't believe the difference. Thanks for the recommendation and I am a believer! My factory Basalt Black paint looked dull next the Klasse-ified paint!

power break in
 

There is a power break in procedure described on www.mototuneusa.com , I have done this specific procedure to a 2001 MB E320, 2002 NSX, Kawasaki ZX-6 and because I bought my boxster used, I wasn't able to power break in my boxster. All it really involves is warming up your car properly, I'm anal so I did it for 15-20 minutes. then ride it in hard according to the specifics described on the website. The car's engines run like brand new to this day, Oil changes are super clean, and what can I tell you, when my uncle drives my e320, he says mine is faster than his. (we both bought our E320 4 matics at the same time). Afther the first 10 miles, you HAVE to change your oil. then anal me changed it again at 200 then 1000. I"m just being overly cautious that's all. Check out the website, you won't regret it.

Here is the break in proceure link
 

omg -- just the colours on that page are controversial, let alone the content!

//ducks

hey, it sounds reasonable enough, if not entirely compelling. then again, i've never seen proof that the guy who bought the car with 55 hard demo miles on it ended up any worse than the the guy who bought the car with the standard 15 factory miles. but i wouldn't know, and i can't wait to hear what those who would know will say about it . . . . (this break-in procedure might need its own thread) regardless, thanks for the info pino --- never seen anything like it.

brett

Engine break-in as per 2005 EU owner's manual
 

Just received my owner's manual on a CD from Porsche (still waiting for the car itself :) ) and found the following on page 12:

"Tips for running in:
The following tips will be helpful in obtaining optimum performance from your new Porsche.
Despite the most modern, high-precision manufacturing methods, the "wearing in" of moving parts with each other cannot be completely avoided. This wearing occurs mainly in the first 3,000 km (1,865 miles).
During the first 3,000 km (1,865 miles) you should:
- preferably take longer trips
- avoid frequent cold start with short-distance driving whenever possible
- Not participate in motor racing events, sports driving schools or similar.
- Avoid high engine speeds, especially when the engine is cool."

That's all folks... Nothing about 4200RPM or other scary stuff... I was a little bit afraid as I would not be able to keep the rules posted here earlier :D

Not every car on the lot has been test-driven. I had been talking to one dealer in Ohio who was offering 11% discount on an '05 987S with 11 miles on it. I've heard that anything under 35 miles or so is acceptable.

MY04 manual says keep it under 4200rpm for the first 1-2K miles.

Yeah but my manual is for the _987_ (model year 2005, issued in May 2005) and I recognized it as a major change - and happy to learn that I won't have to restrict myself with my new S... Anyway, I would rather consider the 4200RPM limit as something for the driver and not the engine to break in / get used to :) As a summer weekend car, it would take me months to get past the first few thousand miles.

the moto man website break in procedure seems like bad advice although varying your rpm and loads is accepted. Most harley techs won't use synthetic during break in so moto man's suggestion sounds familiar. but he leaves out the whole valve train from the break in equation. Race engines may get broken in this way but they are run for short lives before they get a rebuild. IMO

2005 Boxster 987. Page 14 says "Do not exceed maximum engine speed of 4,200 rpm.

I bought the car I took a test drive in because it was the right colour and options and $10,000 off.

The salesman beat the $h!t out of it on a test drive and then encouraged me to do the same. It was sold as new with 172 miles on it. I'm sure now every one was hard.

The car drinks oil like a pig: half a quart of synthetic in 300 miles--are you ************************ kidding me? My eleven year old Ford exploder with 165,000 miles on it doesn't drink nary a drop!

I asked about break in and he told me not to run it to redline too often in the first 1,000 miles. Naturally I drove it like ......................... for a couple hundred miles and THEN read the book myself.

Good grief. :ah:

Don't redline it too often? That salesman was an idiot.

You should tell the service manager that the salesman said this so he can get him fired over it.

Every redline is recorded in the OBC and cannot be cleared or erased. It's one of the things Porsche does to prove owner negligence when they refuse to pay for new motors, even when the motor is faulty, not the driver or owner of the car.

I think I will be asking for a OBC printout even if I buy a brand new Porsche in the future, just to have a record of what's been going on with the engine before I purchased it and what may exclude me from full warranty paid repairs in the future.

sound like you have the notorious RMS leak. Did you notice a puddle under the car after its been sitting for a while?

This ain't bad
 

I'm up to about 400 miles in my break in and I've been varying the rpms mostly staying under 3K. Soon I'll start increasing the rev range keeping under the 4.2K. But I got to say this is not that bad. This car is quick even in this range. Better than I expected. When I get her broken in this is going to be sweet. Meanwhile this is like foreplay.

off topic: saw the BMW M4 on the news - I think they said power's up to 325bhp