Spark plug won't come out.
 

I'm trying to change all the plugs, plug sleeves and seals on our 2.7L, 2000 Boxster and I'm having a problem with one of my plugs. When I tried to take it out, it was difficult to turn. I was able to make about 5 revolutions and then it got tighter. I'm afraid to turn any harder for fear of snapping the plug off at the base. I tried to tighten it back in, but it's very tight that way as well so I have the same fear of snapping it off at the base.

It wasn't difficult when I put it in a year or two ago so it wasn't stripped and I don't have any trouble with the other five so I don't have a clue as to what could cause this problem.

Has anyone experienced this and/or have any suggestions to get it out? It's really freaking me out because I really can't afford to be without the car right now.

Thanks! :cheers:

Did you use anti-seize paste when you installed them?

At this point it sounds like you're kinda committed to turning the plug until it either comes out or snaps, and then dealing with it. And, if it does come out without breaking, what will you encounter putting the new one in? Will the threads in the block be damaged?

In your situation (daily driver, needs the car on the road), I'd be looking pretty hard at towing it in to the mechanic. And it's usually cheaper to fix if you send it in before you break it rather than after.

Good luck!

I used anti-seize, but I went too long before changing (60K miles). Two on the other side are difficult as well so I put some PB Blaster on them to see if they will loosen up.

I'll try a little PB Blaster on the first one that was difficult and see what happens. If the PB Blaster does not help me work it free then I'll take it to a mechanic and get them to try.

Thanks.

Quick question on related subject - read somewhere that official torque settings for plugs refer to dry torquing. If one uses anti seize, should one adjust the torque setting.

Also, what are the implications ere grounding of using anti-seize?

Thanks

The torque values for the plugs are for dry installation. I'm not sure what the values are with anti-seize.

I haven't had any problems with grounding when using anti-seize. I won't be using it this time, but will change the plugs every 30K miles to keep this problem from happening again.

The torque remains the same, there are no grounding "implications" as anti seize compounds are metallic in composition. We use compound on every set of plugs we change, never had an issue of any sort...............

Milk of magnesia has been used as an anti seize compound by someone on here as far as I recall. Will this solve issues surrounding grounding or create more?

Thanks for the help everyone. i used my PB Blaster and rocked it back and forth and it eventually came out. The new one went in just fine. A good thing since two more were difficult as well.

Very happy it worked out and I got all of the tubes and o-rings changed. One plug was covered in oil since the tube was cracked so it was causing a sputter. Now everything is nice and smooth. :cheers:

Ya gotta love a happy ending! :dance:

What is a "PB Blaster"?

PB Blaster

;^)

Now I'm completely confused. Here's a quote from the Pelican Parts web site regarding the use of anti-seize compound:

Install each spark plug into the cylinder heads without using any anti-seize compound. Torque the spark plugs to 30 Nm (22 ft-lbs). I recently learned that Porsche, published a bulletin indicating that it doesn't recommend using anti-seize compound on spark plugs for any of their engines (Porsche Technical Bulletin 9102, Group 2 identifier 2870). The bulletin applies retroactively to all models and the theory is that the anti-seize tends to act as an electrical insulator between the plug and the cylinder head. This could have detrimental effect on the firing of the spark due to the loss of a good, consistent ground connection.

I installed mine without anti-seize compound. The change interval on the plugs in my 2000 is 30,000 miles. I'll be holding my breath for another year to see what happens when I take mine out.

If you're changing at 30K miles, I don't think you'll have any problems. I think mine were tough to get out because I was late in changing them at 65K miles, a mistake I won't be making again.

Do you need a lift to gain access to the plugs ? How easily accessible are they ?

No lift needed. Just jack up the rear, remove the tire and they're right there in front of you.

That quote has been around forever, and unfortunately is wrong. As I stipulated, most anti-seize compounds are finely suspended metallic pastes, usually copper or aluminum, which conduct electrical current without issue. Perhaps Porsche found one at some time that was nonconductive, but I have never seen one that had that property.

More to the point, while many plugs have some type of release coating on them from the factory, with plug life expectancy getting longer all the time, stuck plugs and galled plug threads in the cylinder heads is a real issue, particularly with aluminum heads. Adding a very small dab of anti-seize to the threads on a new plug will eliminate any possibility of that ever happening. Do not go nuts and dip the end of the plug in anti-seize, just use a tiny dab, and then torque to specs.

And before you ask; no, anti-seize will not cause the plugs to come loose; that is an urban legend, just like having the wheels fall off because you used anti-seize on the lug nuts before torqueing them. We have used anti-seize on both for literally decades in the shop and have never had a problem.