IMS vs IMB replacement
 

I am having my RMS (rear main seal) replaced and figured I would takle the IMS upgrade everyone is raving about since they have to pull the engine for the RMS.

My question is, I know there is two options here the Intermediate Main Shaft and then just a bearing replacement.

Why would I want to replace the whole shaft, isnt the bearings the problem. I just would like a little advice on how to takle this one.

Thanks guys!

Cars built (or with factory engine replacements) after late 2005 require the entire shaft be replaced because of the size of the OEM bearing; this also requires total disassembly of the engine to swap out the shaft. Cars built earlier (with their original engines) only require the bearing be replaced.

Oh thats great news. THANK YOU. Seems like its a little cheaper on the 986 model then :)

That makes my day!

Also, there is no reason to pull the engine for the RMS and/or IMS bearing. The transaxle must be removed but these repairs are most often done with the engine still in the car.

My car is a 2000 2.7 Tiptronic. The guy told me its 13.6 hours total labor for the RMS and IMS Bearing.... does that sound right?

Don't have the final bill in front of me but the estimate I received last year was 11 hours: 7 hours for the transaxle removal / reinstall and 4 hours for the IMS update. I believe that included the RMS.

For a Tip, yes; they are a pain in the ass compared to the manual gearbox cars. Some installers prefer to pull the engine and trans out as a unit and then separate them.

Just a thought, if your AoS in not recent, I would have it done at the same time; it is easily accessible with the gearbox out, and if they pull the engine, it is totally out in the open...........

Check the front engine mount and tranny mounts while you're in there...

They are charging me (with OEM porsche parts) $1213.57. I thought it was very reaosnable, all things considered.

Thanks for the heads up people.

Hoperfully you're not replacing your IMS with another OEM IMS. The LN Engineering version is what you want to use.

Agreed! That price might be for labor and the RMS but can't include the LN Engineering IMS priced $762.83. https://www.lnengineering.com/ims.html

Oh no- as in my original post- Im doing the IMS UPGRADE... I would never replace it with a new "faulty" part lol

Then that price seems very good.

His cost would only cover OEM parts, which is about $200-something

If I were to get my own parts, Id only pay him the labor which is much about 900.00....

audisnawb... I'm with Timothy.
Something doesn't add up here. :confused:

They are charging you $1213 for the retro fit of the LN bearing kit which costs about $762.
That leaves $451 for 13,6 hours of labour = $33 per hour. Thats seems like a very cheap labour rate !!

I think they are charging you the $1213 for labour ($89-20 / hr which sounds about right) but parts will be on top of that....
Or it could be that the parts are costing $1213 (LN bearing + installation kit + RMS + sundries etc,) with 13,6 hours of labour added to that.

Of course, I could be wrong, but personally, I would confirm with the shop and get a written quote before you get a nasty surprise......

First off, I was in a hurry earlier and misread the LN Engineering price chart. Their IMS retrofit is either $519 or $595 depending on single vs. double row. The $763 price is for a different kit.

$1213 quoted for labor, RMS, oil fill
$519 (+shipping) for IMS bearing
---------------
total = $1732

That's a good price. Feb 2010 I paid $1893.80 (before tax) at my local shop including PCA member discount on labor.

There is also a LN IMS installation tool kit priced $159. Ask if you are expected to supply or will be billed for that.

I just did the LN IMS, RMS and clutch work a couple months ago and the shop charged me 10hrs labor (manual transmission). There should not be any charge on the tools if you do it at the shop listed as LN dealers/installers. The shop did not even charge me for shipping.
I think $1200 for total job sounds very reasonable for tiptronic cars since they might have to remove the engine to do it.

This price is too cheap. I'd be concerned that the work is going to be done thoroughly.

His labor is not cheap- 75 an hour which is average for an independant Porsche mechanic. Again- the labor is about 950 and then adding in the parts of the OEM parts, would bring it to the 1200- I am going with the LNengineering double bearing kit for 595- so with the upgraded kit, ill be around 1500

What parts did your mechanics charge you for $250?
RMS only cost $19.84 (that is the number that I paid 3 months ago, part 997 101 212 01).
Even if you add new AOS, it is only $105 +33 for hose clamp and upper fitting).

RMS - $20.40
IMS Bearing - $121.44 OEM Porsche= which I am not buying.
Intermediate Shaft Seal - $20.40
Misc Bolts $3.00

OK, sounds correct now.
I think $950 for labor is very reasonable for tiptronic cars. Means they just add 2.5hrs extra for tiptronic cars, it is very reasonable.

I think you are going to enjoy your car better after the repair (less worry). I can sleep better knowing that my IMS will not fail on me anytime soon with LN upgrade.

Per LN engineering recommendation, I'm running castrol syntec 5W40 after I got their IMS upgrade (Charles asked me to hold off on using castrol edge 5W40 as they don't have any experience with that new castrol at this moment, stick with old syntec for now).

Here is the quote from LN engineering website:
Use a higher viscosity motor oil. There are several Porsche approved oils that are 5w40, rather than Mobil 1 0w40. Use of an oil that isn't API SM-rated with more Zn and P or an oil with moly extreme pressure anti-wear additives may improve engine life. Castrol Syntec 5w40 is an API SL rated oil that carries Porsche approval and is an excellent choice, and easy to get locally. Motul 8100 5w40 is another excellent Porsche approved lubricant.

Not to mention the fact the Castrol Edge 5W-40 is not yet available in North America............

It is available now:

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/CST0/SYNTEC540.oap?pt=N1189&ppt=C0252

http://www.castrol.com/castrol/sectiongenericarticle.do?categoryId=9036295&conten tId=7067038

Hate to be the bearer of bad tidings, but that is not what has been previously labeled as “Castrol Edge”; it is Castrol Syntec, "updated with Edge technology”. According to their data sheets, “For years, you’ve depended on the power of Castrol SYNTEC to outperform conventional motor oils. Now, we’ve reformulated SYNTEC to outperform even itself."

The original "Edge" product line was never available in 5W-40 weight, and in fact was never available in North America in any weight higher than 10W-30, which is not an appropriate weight for use in any Porsche. The original “Edge” also held different ACEA ratings than this product line does, a further indication it is different as that would require total resubmission and testing under the ACEA testing protocols agreement. There is also a "Pro Edge" product line, which is listed as a "motorsports" product, which does have appropriate weights available, and has been getting some pretty interesting reviews and UoA's; but that is also not yet available in North America through normal distribution channels, although it has been showing up in online retailer’s websites at very stiff prices.

That said, as this new product holds ACEA A3, B3, B4 ratings that the original Syntec held, I would think it is probably a worth successor to the old Syntec 5W-40, but we will wait until we collect enough UoA’s on this newer version of Syntec before broadly suggesting it to customers, which I’m sure is why Charles suggested against using it at this time.