Motor Mount Replacement - Drop lower cooling hoses
 

Hi all,

I've got my boxster up on some stands, got the motor mount completed disconnected - 4 bolts on the cradle and 2 off the bottom of the mount (1 above the mount is still in the engine, but loosened).

I have pushed, pried and pulled the motor mount sideways, diagonally, on and on and there is no way that cradle is getting past my lower hoses. I realize a few DIY guides seem to disagree with me there....hehehe.

Now, here's the thing. My lower coolant hoses look pretty worn. They aren't spongy or bulging, but they are heavily cracked and the outer rubber is flaking off rpetty readily. So I decided "What if I replaced them and made this job alot easier".

I found these hoses on Pelican Parts for like $8 per hose, or $16 for new hoses. Pretty cheap to alleviate frustration in removing and re-installing the motor mount, and getting piece of mind about that rubber holding up under heat and pressure.

So here are my questions:

1. Can someone confirm these are the right hoses:
Left Hose (similar description and price for the right side)

2. How much coolant will come out when these hoses are replaced? I have about 3-4 liters of pink pentosin coolant - will this be enough to replace (with distilled water) when I top off and bleed the system? I am fine going with 60% distilled water if necessary - this car doesn't get that cold.

3. Can anyone point me in the direction/part number of fresh plastic support clips that slide onto the wishbone? One of mine broke when I tried to slide it off.

Thanks all,

Joe

For those who haven't done this job - a 15mm deep socket on a 1/2 drive with a 6" extension makes it FAR easier, along with a ratcheting 15mm FLAT socket (not angled).

I think I'd go ahead and recommend, for the at home DIYer, to just drop the lower coolant hoses at the same time since replacing a little coolant will be far easier (I think?) and will help prevent corrosion in the cooling system between full flushes....

Joe

I did mine last summer shortly after buying my '93 base. As I recall, it was a PITA to get the thing out once I removed the bolts. As you said, twisting and turning but it eventually came out. And had the same struggle getting the new one back in. I think I followed the Pedro's Garage DIY. I lremoved the straps on the hoses far enough down to get just enough play to wrestle the mount out. I don't think I'd want to mess with the hoses unless absolutely necessary. Something about air locks, and the trouble to bleed these due to the design, etc., etc. Good luck with your project. Mine no longer clunks, but I also expected the shifting to get a little crisper, which never happened.

I replaced my coolant a year/half ago when I installed the LN low temp t-stat...yes, a lot comes out and I replaced it with the Porsche OEM product. It's not hard to bleed the system; I simply drove around for a few days heat cycling the system with the bleeder valve open and eventually all the air came out. I guess I'll be doing it again this spring when I replace my original 9 year old water pump (with 19k miles) since Jake has warned this is a ticking time bomb (didn't know at the time).

So, don't be fearful of removing the hoses...might be a good time to buy one of the vacuum bleeders?

Those lower coolant hoses attach right next to the coolant drain, so if you remove them, you will lose most of your coolant. Either find a way to get it out, or resolve to change your coolant.

I had the opposite experience bleeding my cooling system that jmatta did. My car did not bleed correctly the first time. That destroyed my coolant cap because the car got too hot. I tried bleeding it 3 more times without success. Every time I did, I blew out a ton of coolant. At $30 a gallon, you don't want to be doing that (not to mention it's poison and not good for the environment).

I'd recommend using a vacuum bleeder.

It sounds like you should do it based on the condition of your hoses though.

Maybe I just got lucky, but you're right; at $30+ a gallon, it doesn't take long to match the $100 for a vacuum system, let alone risking hot spots.

I think I'm going to bite the bullet and do it. I've got 5 liters of g12 coolant in my garage, and I'm comfortable going 40% coolant 60% distilled water.

Assuming I lose 4 gallons of coolant by dropping these hoses, I'll grab another 2 containers of coolant + hoses + worm clamps + bleeder valve o-ring. I should have 8 liters of coolant, or enough to make 4 gallons at 50/50 or a bit more at a slightly more skewed concentration.

Anything I'm forgetting....hmmm....I still need the part number for the coolant hose clamps that fit onto the engine yoke. Hopefully pelican parts can help me out with t hat....

Joe

Hey y'all.
It looks like this has come up before, but I don't see that anyone has supplied a part number, or anything like that.
I broke one of these radiator hose support clamps tonight, while doing a front motor mount.
I can't find them on anybody's site, but I'm probably calling them by the wrong name.

Does anyone know where I can buy these clamps?
Second question is, are they necessary? I'm thinking that at a 90-degree turn, it's quite possible that as these hoses get warm, they Flex, droop, collapse. But if that's not the case, and you don't really need these, then let me know that too will you? Haha

thanks in advance.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...c7999c5c79.jpg

Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

Its hard to tell exactly which coolant line support you need but all of the supports (and PN's) can be found in the diagram here: http://www.a u t o a t l a n t a.com/porsche-parts/hardparts.php?dir=986-97-04&section=105-10

Silly software. Copy the link above, paste into your browser, and manually remove the spaces in the URL.

Of course, once you have the PN, be sure to check with our forum owner, Pelican Parts, to see if they sell that part. :)

All I can add is I did mine I used Pedros DIY. Not a fun job but doable. While I was at it I replaced my water pump and thermostat. I think I removed bolts holding water lines to the chassis to give me some more room to get the mount out. I got about 5 gals of coolant, I have a 99. I bought a 5 gallon tote from Walmart and drained into there then dropped it off at the landfill. I can tell you from experience the water pump is MUCH easier without the motor mount on. I have done 2 waterpumps and with the motor mount on its almost impossible without the right tools.

It totally doable with the hoses in. But you do have to remove the clamps that hold the hoses (careful they break) and also the bolts that are in the chassis. It takes a bit of creative maneuvering, but very doable. Make sure you keep the correct orientation as well, it's possible to wiggle it in upside down.

Having said all that, if your lines are deteriorating it is definitely time to RR your coolant system. Hoses, pump. thermostat and fresh coolant... Might as well.