11-18-2010, 05:29 AM
			
			
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			#21
			
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			Where did you find that exended air intake?
 
		 
		
		
		
		
		
		
			
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			11-18-2010, 06:41 AM
			
			
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			#22
			
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			11-18-2010, 07:22 AM
			
			
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			#23
			
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			Quote Gary H:  
 "Hi Topless - some great mods there. How much of a weight reduction is the battery vs stock? And the Seat? 
How much work is involved fitting the Sump, how much does increase oil capacity by and does it still sit under the under tray? 
Would you say fitting a baffled sump is absolutely pessary if using track tyres? Were you getting oil starvation problems before fitting? 
I've never heard of Raybestos - have you used anything else for track and could you compare them to Performance Friction or Pagid?"
 
I think the battery and seat shaved about 30lbs each and I add in 15lbs for the roll bar ext.  A modest weight reduction but it also lowered the cg a bit.  The seat adds a lot of driver security so you are not sliding around in the car at 130 mph.
 
My local track is the Fontana Roval and it is well known for killing m96 motors.  I have 4 friends who tossed their motor on the banked turn 2 and got to go shopping for a new one.  I didn't want to join that fraternity just yet so I added the X-51 pan.  I am optimistic that it will help as long as oil temps don't soar too high.  Installation is simple.  The baffles need to be trimmed to fit our car and use very light sealant so it doesn't squeeze inside the motor.
 
Raybestos is well known in racing circles in the US.  High in quality and low in advertising budget.  The ST-43 has a very high temp range and a lot of bite.  It can be used on the street but I find the car hits ABS easily on street tires.  I do like them better than Pagid orange or yellow which tended to gum up my rotors over time.  Here is my source.  They will custom cut a set of pads for any racing application:   http://porterfield-brakes.com/manufacturers/Raybestos/ST43.html
		 
		
		
		
		
		
		
			
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			11-21-2010, 06:01 AM
			
			
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			#24
			
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			MY97, Tiptronic, owned for 7 years 
Maintenance/Repairs: 
Tiptronic rebuild ×2 
MAF replacement ×2 
ABS pump replacement 
Water pump replacement 
Ignition switch replacement 
Brake rotors/pads/sensors replacement 
etc.....
 
Mods/Upgrades: 
996 front bumper 
Glass window roof 
Clear/red rear lights 
Clear side markers 
Jaycar kevlar front speakers - meh... 
Rear parcel shelf console 
PNP rear speaker kit - big difference to sound 
Centre windblocker - a must    
Full coil-over suspension, lowered 
Aftermarket xenons - only $50 from eBay, what a difference in light output!     
Audi auto dimming mirror - very useful as I drive a lot at night for work   
double DIN GPS/MP3/DVD unit - excellent for obvious reasons    
reverse camera - not actually that useful 
VW in-dash cupholders - no more left hand Coke, right hand steer   
Head-Up-Display - necessary for long trips to reduce eye strain from glancing at the speedo (no cruise control) 
Brushed aluminium pedals 
"Glitter" silver full respray    
Planned (parts already in hand): 
Remote central locking with proximity entry 
Remote trunk release 
Updated coolant cap 
DLM fix 
Spacers 
Auto wipers/headlamps
 
Dreamin: 
3.4L engine
		  
		
		
		
		
		
		
			
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						Last edited by Jinster; 11-21-2010 at 06:24 AM.
					
					
				
			
		
		
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			11-21-2010, 12:49 PM
			
			
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			#25
			
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			Could you give more details of your HUD? 
 
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			11-21-2010, 10:43 PM
			
			
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			#26
			
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			The unit I bought was very similar to this, but without the OBD connector: 
 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Heads-Up-Display-MPH-HEAD-UP-Head-Up-Vehicle-Speed-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem19c1175f40QQitemZ11061  3716800QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccesso  ries#ht_4736wt_893
It required splicing into the speedo signal (from behind the radio), the tacho (from OBD), illumination (radio), 12V and ground. It also comes with a water temp sensor, which I haven't connected. I might use it for oil temp instead at some stage.
 
My car is off at the painter's coz some woman reversed into my car and then fled when my car was parked (from a witness). I will take some pics when I get it back.
 
I installed it a year ago. But never quite finished it. I wanted to bury the display unit under the dash, requiring me to cut a hole into that long plastic dash trim near the windshield. Never got around to doing that. So the unit just sit on top of it for now. Fully functional though, just not as integrated looking.
		  
		
		
		
		
		
		
			
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			11-24-2010, 11:09 PM
			
			
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			#27
			
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			A photo of my HUD (not the most ideal lighting, but you get the idea):
		 
		
		
		
			
		
		
		
		
		
		
			
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						Last edited by Jinster; 11-24-2010 at 11:11 PM.
					
					
				
			
		
		
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			11-25-2010, 05:13 AM
			
			
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			#28
			
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			Shame it's been removed - good job with the stereo splash screen though - did the same with my Pioneer AVIC. I can see your GPS antenna is on top of the dash? Mine works perfectly underneath that plastic panel. 
Any details on the HUD (model make etc.) would be great and I'll do the digging. 
I take it you're in Australia?
 
My AVIC install:
  
		 
		
		
		
		
		
		
		
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			11-25-2010, 06:11 AM
			
			
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			#29
			
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	Quote: 
	
	
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					Originally Posted by JTP
					
				 
				Hopefully there's enough room here for my extensive list of mods: 
Zip tied mesh to roll bar.  
Hard wire kit for radar detector. 
Desnorkeled then Resnorkeled within a month. 
A new front bumper because a deer modded my bumper/grill assembly and radiator.   
  
I've been focused on keeping up with maintenace items like oil, CV boots, tires, alignment, etc. 
			
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All the way back to carburetor engines the air filter housings have had that metal, anteater type intake. If it was good enough for my dad's 396 turbo jet to breathe through, it should be great for a Porsche with the factory cold box set up. I experimented like you then settled for this compromise,  I removed the tray cup that partially blocks the intake opening. Then I polished it with a variety of methods which I'm sure is totally subliminal in effect but hey placebos work all the time. Anyhow, it's my take on the intake.
		  
		
		
		
		
		
		
		
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			11-25-2010, 06:50 AM
			
			
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			#30
			
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	Quote: 
	
	
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					Originally Posted by eightsandaces
					
				 
				All the way back to carburetor engines the air filter housings have had that metal, anteater type intake. If it was good enough for my dad's 396 turbo jet to breathe through, it should be great for a Porsche with the factory cold box set up. I experimented like you then settled for this compromise,  I removed the tray cup that partially blocks the intake opening. Then I polished it with a variety of methods which I'm sure is totally subliminal in effect but hey placebos work all the time. Anyhow, it's my take on the intake. 
			
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i used to service the oil bath aircleaners....oh lordie...i  am that old
		  
		
		
		
		
		
		
		
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			11-25-2010, 07:23 AM
			
			
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			#31
			
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			I had a car with one of those - a '62 Strato Chief if I remember right. It had a generator rather than an alternator, and a blow-by tube straight to atmosphere (no PCV). Bought that car out of a field for $50 - put a battery in it, cleaned the plugs, and drove it for a year or so. Things were so much simpler then...
		 
		
		
		
		
		
		
			
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			11-25-2010, 07:42 AM
			
			
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			#32
			
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					Originally Posted by Gary H
					
				 
				 
*LIGHTS: Retrofit Clear Headlights (de-ambered) with LED indicators, LED sidelights and HID 5000K dipped Beam. Ring Hyper white DRLs. Rear LED red/smoke light upgrade and smoked central rear light. Door lights upgraded with LEDs and amber footwell illumination.
  
			
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Awesome thread. More info on the LED indicators please. What and where to purchase? Any error code? I have just de-ambered my headlights, this sounds like an interesting option instead of getting chrome indicator bulbs.
   
		 
		
		
		
		
		
		
		
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			11-25-2010, 09:10 AM
			
			
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			#33
			
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	Quote: 
	
	
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					Originally Posted by extanker
					
				 
				i used to service the oil bath aircleaners....oh lordie...i  am that old 
			
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My '71 914 1.7 had an oil bath air cleaner. It was a mess to clean but I didn't mind it. It did a great job of cleaning the incoming air, especially in the dusty area I was living in at that time.
		  
		
		
		
		
		
		
		
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			11-25-2010, 09:19 AM
			
			
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			#34
			
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	Quote: 
	
	
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					Originally Posted by eightsandaces
					
				 
				All the way back to carburetor engines the air filter housings have had that metal, anteater type intake. If it was good enough for my dad's 396 turbo jet to breathe through, it should be great for a Porsche with the factory cold box set up. I experimented like you then settled for this compromise,  I removed the tray cup that partially blocks the intake opening. Then I polished it with a variety of methods which I'm sure is totally subliminal in effect but hey placebos work all the time. Anyhow, it's my take on the intake. 
			
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When I had the intake vent out I was thinking of doing something similar to your setup. I was also considering getting another snorkel and reshaping it into a more free flowing air horn but it would require alot of flow modeling and bench testing.  I used to do alot of CFD in grad school but for the small gains that would yield, I'll just stick with the stock snorkel.
		  
		
		
		
		
		
		
		
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			11-25-2010, 01:42 PM
			
			
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			#35
			
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	Quote: 
	
	
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					Originally Posted by JTP
					
				 
				When I had the intake vent out I was thinking of doing something similar to your setup. I was also considering getting another snorkel and reshaping it into a more free flowing air horn but it would require alot of flow modeling and bench testing.  I used to do alot of CFD in grad school but for the small gains that would yield, I'll just stick with the stock snorkel. 
			
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Haha I was going to get another snorkel and chop it shorter. The idea you had would be a fun winter project if you had all the necessary equipment. I have to think Porsche already has that covered pretty well. I really didn't understand the function of the piece I removed, that thing that looks like the dip cup they put holy water in. It certainly looked to me like it was blocking the inlet. As for cones, I think anything that breaks the airbox would just suck hot air, I have seen people put cones into modified closed boxes, I wonder how that set up is?
		  
		
		
		
		
		
		
		
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			11-25-2010, 02:12 PM
			
			
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			#36
			
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	Quote: 
	
	
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					Originally Posted by eightsandaces
					
				 
				Haha I was going to get another snorkel and chop it shorter. The idea you had would be a fun winter project if you had all the necessary equipment. I have to think Porsche already has that covered pretty well. I really didn't understand the function of the piece I removed, that thing that looks like the dip cup they put holy water in. It certainly looked to me like it was blocking the inlet. As for cones, I think anything that breaks the airbox would just suck hot air, I have seen people put cones into modified closed boxes, I wonder how that set up is? 
			
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The Evolution Motorsports high flow air intake for the 986 boxster is an excellent bang for the buck. It utilizes a cone shaped air filter and a revised snorkel, along with a dedicated air box. It gives a little bit of a bump in hp and creates an awesome sound !  
http://www.evoms.com/marketplace/marketplace.asp?curr={95F6530B-7E67-4228-8E06-69F6D2E00060}&depth=30&parentid={95F6530B-7E67-4228-8E06-69F6D2E00060}
		  
		
		
		
		
		
		
			
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			11-25-2010, 03:53 PM
			
			
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			#37
			
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* De-amber side and rear 
* Bike rack 
  
  
Do snow tires or a hard top count? 
  
  
To the OP - Yes, I just did (list all of my mods)... 
  
  
  
  
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			11-26-2010, 02:38 AM
			
			
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			#38
			
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					Originally Posted by panameras
					
				 
				Awesome thread. More info on the LED indicators please. What and where to purchase? Any error code? I have just de-ambered my headlights, this sounds like an interesting option instead of getting chrome indicator bulbs. 
   
			
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Yup, the problem with removing the amber and then using silver bulbs is that you now have no reflector in the housing so are reliant on the output from the bulb alone to  indicate - which at night with HIDs is poor and during the day is even worse.
 
I found the brightest opposite pin LED indicator bulbs I could find and they are awesome. 
As I've only done the front (the rears are silver with a reflector) I don't have a rapid-blink problem (which is sorted by in-line capacitors).  No codes thrown on the dash - the car's too old, but does have a field day when you plug in the diag. tool   
Front: 
  
Rear:
  
		 
		
		
		
		
		
		
		
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			12-07-2010, 07:50 AM
			
			
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			#39
			
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	Quote: 
	
	
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					Originally Posted by Gary H
					
				 
				Yup, the problem with removing the amber and then using silver bulbs is that you now have no reflector in the housing so are reliant on the output from the bulb alone to  indicate - which at night with HIDs is poor and during the day is even worse. 
I found the brightest opposite pin LED indicator bulbs I could find and they are awesome. 
As I've only done the front (the rears are silver with a reflector) I don't have a rapid-blink problem (which is sorted by in-line capacitors).  No codes thrown on the dash - the car's too old, but does have a field day when you plug in the diag. tool    
			
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Thanks for the reply. What do you think of these "built-in resistor" LEDs? Should be bright enough?
  http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1156-BA15S-18-LED-Turn-Signal-Light-Bulb-AMBER-NO-ERROR-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem5d2c6f1b38QQitemZ40017 7437496QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccesso ries
		 
		
		
		
		
		
		
		
		
			
				  
				
					
						Last edited by panameras; 12-07-2010 at 08:18 AM.
					
					
				
			
		
		
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			12-27-2010, 04:24 PM
			
			
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			#40
			
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			Just installed: 
Proximity entry/remote central locking 
Rear boot remote release
		 
		
		
 
		
		
		
		
			
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