MAF Question? please help
 

:confused:

so i had the check engine light on and i ran the codes and it came back with p1128 and p1130. MAF from what i understand researching. I bought the torx tamper proof bit size 20 and the can off MAF cleaner. I took it out making sure i touched nothing. I sprayed the entire peice very good and let it dry for a few minutes. I put it back in and now the engine is running poorly. when i hit the gas hard it does not move the rpms. It is funning very badly. Anybody have any idea whats wrong. the battery was disconnected before I started and i reconnected it and plugged the OBDII into it and it said no codes. I am not sure what is going on. Thanks John

ok, i think i may have done something i was not supposed to. i sprayed when the connectors are also. what this a bad move?

can i drive without the MAF plugged in
 

I started the car without it plugged in and it was back to good. So I will have to order one from the mainland. It will take a week to get it most likely so my question is can i drive it without one until then?

Good and Bad new,

I will start with the good. I remembered a guy that lived here that owns a Boxster that is not running. He has parked it and is going to put an electic motor in it so I bought his MAF sensor which was installed but has no miles on it for 120 bucks.

I went to pick it up, now get this. He lives 40 miles away. I put the old MAF in and just left it unplugged. I got no codes on the way and the car ran perfect. I get there install the new one. Plug it in and the car is back to running perfect only problem now is the check engine light is back on AND i am getting two codes now p0102 and p0112. Seams to have something to do with the MAF again but I am not sure exactly what to do. I drove the car back another 40 miles and the light stayed on but it ran fine.

Anyone have any sugestions. :matchup: :matchup:

This is such a PITA!

What year was the car you got the MAF from? There are a couple of different MAF's available depending on what year the car is. I am pretty sure they are not interchangable.
If you haven't joined RennTech yet, there is a good DIY on how to check the MAF for proper operation.
http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?/tutorials/article/200-maf-basic-test/

It is from the correct car. The part number is the same. He had a 98 i have a 99.

Maybe his was bad too? I'm not a fan of the maf cleaning, mine went bad and cleaning it was a bog waste of time. Macs wear put if huts goes bad change it, the maf wears out just like spark plugs wear out, once I put in a new mad my car ran awesome with more top end pill. I the does u have r ma related I'd her a new one. Nthere are difeent ones so call a dealer or check the various threads here and on rennlist to make sure u got the right one.

When I changed mine, I had my mechanic order the part and when it went in my car idled and kinda sputtered for a few minutes, then settled down and no she runs vitchen, so in
igjt get dome dinky dining spitterig when it FiRstl is changed

Huh? What he say??

My car is fixed now! I got it up to 130 mph again and the tach is now able to redline which it would never do. No check engine light after 30 miles and no codes.

But on a more serious note. Lets try to keep our kids in school and focus on spelling and punctuation. I just got a headache reading that post. :rolleyes:

Lectures
 

from someone who brags about going 130MPH. Priceless.

When you installed the MAF and disconnected the battery, it takes several cycles before the ECU relearns the normal signals from the sensors so it isn't unusual to have rough running for a while.

G14D 2 H34r u G07 17 f1X3d! :D

M4rK

Now THAT I understood! :D

Who was bragging about going 130? I understand that but it was not running rough at first. It was just the check engine light. After putting a new one in it was great. The reason for saying I got it up to 130 was because if the Check Engine Light was going to come back on it would most likely of come back on with fast driving. That is how I would get it back on after unplugging the battery.

All is better now.

:D :D :D

Codes P0102 and P0112 after installing a new MAF
 

So what finally cured your problem?

I had exactly the same issue. A lot of mis-fire codes, I ran the car with out the MAF and it ran OK. I bought a new MAF and it runs fine but now generates the P0102 and P0112 codes? I bought the MAF from a reputible source and the part numbers matched exactly. Did your codes go away with time after the computer got used to the new MAF?

To be fair, unless you have timing gear or a dyno to hand, a Vmax run is probably the best way to confirm your car is putting out close to the right power. You don't have to literally max the car out. 120-130 should be enough to tell you whether it's pretty healthy or not. If it's not, it will be really struggling to put on speed by 130.