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Old 09-24-2010, 06:58 AM   #1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lobo1186
If your brake wear indicator is on, then it is not for your rotors but your pads. You can take a flashlight and check all the pad thicknesses easily without taking the wheels off.

However, the case could be that you need new rotors too. The brake wear sensors however, are on the pads.
I have two different indicators on...brake wear indicator and brake indicator. The pads were all changed but I'm thinking maybe the front sensors weren't changed and might cause the break wear signal to turn on? No need for a computer reset after you change your pads for the signal to go away right?

An employee from auto parts told my my rotors needed changing.
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Old 09-24-2010, 07:49 AM   #2
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they may have not put in new sensors or not correctly. Either way, the light will turn off once it is fixed. So the brake place you went to, replaced the pads and not rotors?

that is strange.

but yes they will go away once the sensors are replaced.
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Old 05-21-2011, 03:56 PM   #3
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I'm currently putting Zimmerman rotors in back. Anyone know the size of those hex/torx bolts holding the calipers in place?

Thanks
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Old 05-21-2011, 10:30 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oaktown 986
I'm currently putting Zimmerman rotors in back. Anyone know the size of those hex/torx bolts holding the calipers in place?
Should be a 10mm hex head bolt. Torque to 63 ft-lbs on re-installation. Some people say that the caliper bolts are one-time use only and should be replaced each time they are removed.
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Old 05-22-2011, 03:26 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thstone
Should be a 10mm hex head bolt. Torque to 63 ft-lbs on re-installation. Some people say that the caliper bolts are one-time use only and should be replaced each time they are removed.
Ok, now I'm trying to put the calipers pistons back into the caliper enough to fit the new pads in. What's the recommended method? C clamp and wood or wood and mallet like in the pelican article? My mechanic buddy back east said that doesn't seem to be a wise method...
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Old 05-22-2011, 08:56 PM   #6
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I always use a big c-clamp and a slice of wood. Go slow and watch the brake reservoir so it doesn't overflow. Works like a charm.
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Old 03-09-2012, 07:53 AM   #7
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Going to get after mine this weekend. Cant wait.
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Old 03-09-2012, 09:00 AM   #8
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Easy and fast way to push the pistons back in using a simple 8inch pair of pliers.

I also open up the bleed valve so the fluid goes out instead of back into the system.
Then follow with a full bleed or flush.

Brake Pad Change - YouTube

detailed video

Porsche Boxster Brake Pad Replacement - YouTube
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Old 03-09-2012, 09:08 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thstone View Post
Should be a 10mm hex head bolt. Torque to 63 ft-lbs on re-installation. Some people say that the caliper bolts are one-time use only and should be replaced each time they are removed.
Replacements seem to be Torx, size T55
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Old 03-09-2012, 05:25 PM   #10
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Done and SOLID. What a great easy project. I did manage to break one of the "wear sensors" but I already had new ones on the way so that will be an easy hookup once they get here. This project can save you TONS of $$ from what the shops will charge you. Go to Suncoast or Pelican and purchase the new rotors and pads and get after it.
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