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Old 05-19-2010, 04:20 PM   #1
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Is your Box a stick. Have you seen any oil from around the trans where the axle connects. The diff has about one liter of 90 weight oil. If the diff gets low you can develop a roar like noise from it and only notice it at a higher speed. I would jack it up, look and see if the boots are not broken and check the trans. By narrowing down the problem areas you closer to solving your problem.

PS: I just checked on how to change the rear wheel bearing and that is a lot of work. You need to press out the old bearing and press in a new one. Find a Indy near you.
Check here to see how it's done. http://boxcar-racing.com/forum/index.php?topic=562.0
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Old 05-19-2010, 05:07 PM   #2
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It's manual transmission.. and there's no oil drips on my garage floor.
How do I check oil level in differential?

Sasha
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Old 05-19-2010, 06:56 PM   #3
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After researching differential n the net I found out that differential and transmission share the oil..

So I should just change transmission fluid right?

Also I found following link http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/shopcart/986M/POR_986M_SUSaxl_pg1.htm

They sell differential oil.. but they mention front and rear differential... it's confusing.. should I buy 3lt of this oil from pelicanparts and change my transmission fluid? will this solve "low differential oil problem"?

Thanks
Sasha

Last edited by sasha055; 05-19-2010 at 06:58 PM.
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Old 05-20-2010, 12:44 PM   #4
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I inspected CV boots axle and tire wiggling all apeear to be good..

I noticed a small drip of liquid near passenger side rear tire.
It comes from something that looks like a cut rubber hose about 5cm to the center and front from CV boot. I couldn't really tell what the liquid was.. it was yellowish without smell.

Can anyone please tell me wht that "cut rubber hose" is for? and what kind of liquid could be coming from there?

Thanks
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Old 05-20-2010, 02:33 PM   #5
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have a mechanic check your car
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Old 11-09-2015, 04:00 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by extanker View Post
have a mechanic check your car
Seriously? This is a forum where a member is looking for help from other DIYers.
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Old 11-10-2015, 04:16 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by 986piper View Post
Seriously? This is a forum where a member is looking for help from other DIYers.
Seriously? You revived a FIVE year old thread to chide someone for suggesting a mechanic?

This forum is about helping people find solutions. Not everyone on here has the skill or desire to do everything themselves. The wheel bearing is a very difficult job as I understand it, and even though I've done a lot of jobs on my car, I still wouldn't tackle it alone.

Going to a mechanic, especially a quality indy mechanic, isn't the end of the world. Or maybe you'd like us to help you do a front end alignment by hand? Some things you need a pro for...no shame in that.
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Old 05-20-2010, 04:47 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sasha055
I inspected CV boots axle and tire wiggling all apeear to be good..

I noticed a small drip of liquid near passenger side rear tire.
It comes from something that looks like a cut rubber hose about 5cm to the center and front from CV boot. I couldn't really tell what the liquid was.. it was yellowish without smell.

Can anyone please tell me wht that "cut rubber hose" is for? and what kind of liquid could be coming from there?

Thanks
Sasha
Sounds like one of the body drains. Did you have this noise before you replaced the tires. What kind of tires did you put on the Box. Did a Porsche shop or Indy do the alignment. The cambor and toe need to be set to Porsche specs, but, if your Box has hit something from the previous owner, then those specs may cause the tire to whine. They need to measure it to make sure it is true.
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Old 05-20-2010, 05:11 PM   #9
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I didn't change tires.. I bought the car in feb, previous owner changed rear tires.. I aligned them at les shwab's.

I'm not sure how it was before.. I myself didn't notice the noise until recently... but then again I thought that crazy vibration at 3k rpm, extremely hard shifting and paying 1000$ for "brake job" to dealer is normal...

It's my first used car.. and I'm freaking out from time to time

Thanks for all the good advice!

Sasha
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Old 05-20-2010, 08:37 PM   #10
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Bad bearing.

I had the drivers rear go bad. It squealed rather loudly but was most noticeable at about the 20 to 40 MPH range when driving window down with a wall along side the car (on a bridge, in a city, etc.) At highway speeds road noise was too loud to hear the squeal.
I verified it was bad by:
1. Washing the car and pressure washing the wheel area. Small pebbles in the brakes/shrouds can cause a similar problem.
2. Drive at a speed where you hear the squeal. Change lanes back and forth (or turn) without changing speed it will momentarily get louder or go away (If you can drive by a friend at speed he will hear it when you do not. The squeal is very audible outside the car not in it without a reflective surface alongside the car.)
3. Jack up the rear of the car (both sides) and put on jack stands. Remove the wheels and verify the brakes and e brakes are retracting.
4. Check for rubbing of the medal shroud around the disk. On two occasions I have fixed a squeal after a state inspection of the brakes (they replaced the wheel without using the alignment pin -- a difficult task if you are not talented/careful)
5. Spin the hub. I could feel it dragging in comparison to the other hub. As I increased speed the bad side made a rubbing sound the other did not.
6. The on road tests may indicate a problem due to wheel alignment, tire wear, or balance issues. So if you hear a noise on the road do both the garage tests.

If you are hearing a whoomp, whoomp, whoomp vice a squeal the bearing is about to fail which can double or triple your repair cost. So get it fixed now!!

I have done bearings on about 30 cars. Modern American, Old British, Japanese, I would not hesitate to do most repairs but this is a bit more difficult and requires tools you probably do not have access to. It cost north of $600 at a dealer for the repair (obviously depends on the area/dealer.) A decent local shop can do the job and usually asks about $300. If they hesitate or admit they have not done this repair before -- I would go else where.
Hope this helps.
ATB,
tom
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Old 05-21-2010, 04:51 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sasha055
I didn't change tires.. I bought the car in feb, previous owner changed rear tires.. I aligned them at les shwab's.

I'm not sure how it was before.. I myself didn't notice the noise until recently... but then again I thought that crazy vibration at 3k rpm, extremely hard shifting and paying 1000$ for "brake job" to dealer is normal...

It's my first used car.. and I'm freaking out from time to time

Thanks for all the good advice!

Sasha
First thing first...is Les Schwab a Porsche shop or tech. The camber and toe need to be at the Porsche specs.
Do you know how many miles where on the tires before the alignment.
My point is the tire may have wear spots and by changing the alignment you may be picking some noise from this change. I would brake the tire down and re-seat it.
Use an Infrared Digital Thermometer to read the heat at the axle after you drive one day. Read the good side and then the bad side. If there is a substantial difference then you have a bearing going out. If they are about the same, then the bearing is good. If you don't have one you can get one from ebay for less than $20.
What brand are the tires....
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