Today my 986 died on the Bay Bridge
 

How embarrassing. And likely to be expensive. I threw O2 codes along with a Secondary Air Canister code, then sputtered and the engine died. I started her back up, just to have her die immediately. Not quite sure what happened, awaiting a tow company to let me know when they can get 'er back to my house. Any thoughts? Should I take it to a mechanic (Any Oakland or San Francisco rec's?) or take it home and take my time (I have alternative means of transit)?

Bad start to a day.

tell this aint the car with the bad brakes [breaks for surf job]

I'm glad I didn't fork up money to take it to the dealer for new brakes to have the car die the next day. Now it's looking verrrry expensive to repair this guy. I hope it's not an IMS failure.

was it making any funky noises before it died ? does it sound normal when cranking over ? any other codes ;;

I'm going to have it towed to my house, and will be investigating the codes after work today. It didn't make any noises that were out of the normal while cranking; it started up but then the idle dropped immediately.

try disconnecting the MAF sensor then starting

i would think the first sign would have been the 9 quarts of oil on the bay bridge...

whew; that's a good start. No oil was on the bridge, nor the parking lot where she's currently stashed. So, I'm going to disco' the MAF; any other suggestions for initial variables to putz with?

Luckily most really bad failures look like really bad failures; oil dumping and bad noises. Post the codes on here. The emissions codes are usually an indication of a bad air flow or bad fuel delivery, neither of which are the end of the world usually.

codes
 

Flatbed just dropped it off: here are the codes.

P0300, general misfire
p0304, cyl 4 misfire,
p0305, cyl 5 misfire
P1319 misfire emission related, signal implausible cyl 1-6,
P1316 ditto
P1317
p1128 O2
p1130 O2

I am no mechanic, but you have codes which are across both banks
possible causes:
a) bad MAF
b) problem with the timing chain ( read IMS)

Ok, I disco'd the MAF's plug, tried starting it, and failed. Replugged it in; failed. Am I misunderstanding the directions for testing your MAF to see if it's the missing link?

When trying to start it, it cranks, but no start. Keep the help coming...

When was the last time you changed out your spark plugs and coils? You should try unplugging the MAF and starting the car.

Tried; it cranked but wouldn't start. Spark plugs are 10k old, never changed the coils and have been driving it for about 25k miles. It has 92k on it now. Is it that time?

Jon

If you can tow it to Santa Clara, Marvin is the best!

http://www.therennshop.com/

I had over $3K done in work....would have cost me double that at the dealer and would have not learned a thing like I did with Marvin.

http://986forum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=22832

check the usual suspects...fuel /spark....with a scan tool look for crankshaft position sensor voltage /signal

Thanks for the referral; should I end up going that route, I'll consider sending the business his way. Does anyone think it's the coil packs? My buddy and I are leaning in that direction. In case the fuel sender was bad, we just added some more 91 octane.. it appears that fuel is being delivered.

Ugh.

First off, do you try pressing the gas pedal when you start the car?

If you have the time and want to save the money, I'd start off with all the common and easy stuff and try to build my way up from that. Then maybe take it to a mechanic.

Reset the car's computer by disconnecting the battery for a few minutes, then try starting it up again and see if it gives you the same codes
Check the oil, air filter, IACV, MAF, PCV, and spark plugs
Clean out the throttle body and carburetor, checking all the components around them in the process
Replace the coils, oxygen sensors, and maybe the MAF. They're designed to wear out anyway.

Ok.. tested the gas while starting: no difference. Air filter and oil are all good. I guess everything else begins mañana.

let us know if ya find a carb.