Time to start spending money...
 

: Brakes:

http://www.garyhanda.com/box/brakes.jpg

997 GT cooling ducts, Goodridge hoses and RBF 600 fluid

In prep for either Pagid or Performance Friction pads and will probably go with 2-piece rotors

2: Suspension:

4 of these:

http://www.garyhanda.com/box/control arms.jpg

to Compliment the :

http://www.garyhanda.com/box/mo30.jpg

Genuine Porsche MO30 Sports Suspension kit: 4 dampers, 4 springs (20/10mm drop) and stiffer front and rear anti-roll bars...direct from Porsche...£506 :d

What else? R888's on their way, now looking into a baffled sump.


First impressions? Bear in mind the car has done 115K miles, the suspension swap-out is a revelation. It IS a new car with an even more 'hewn-from-granite' feel that I can now feel my tyres squirm :D

If you have a high mileage car, do not underestimate how worn your suspension rubber will be!

Gary, going to the track ?

the reason why I am asking is unless you either go to the track or drive at absolutely illegal speeds you won't get any bang for the buck out of any of your brake upgrades (I think the suspension upgrades are great, btw).

So if I had the extra Dollar (or in your case Pound Sterling) to spend I'd put them somewhere else.

One big word of advise about the Pagid pads:
They are race pads and are designed to work at race temperatures (and I mean race temperatures), where they shine. At normal temperatures they are only so-so. But if your intention is to use them for daily driving you will hate them (trust me). They are amongst the noisiest pads ever made and they will drive you (and everyone else on the road) absolutely bonkers with their loud, high pitch squeal. When I go to the track (with my daily driver) I put them in the night before I leave for the track and I usually get a lot of stares and some "friendly advise" from fellow motorists: "Hey buddy fix your f***ing brakes!"

I am not trying to patronize you here, just trying to help you in avoiding a costly mistake.

Hey Chris, no problems.

I do around 10-12 track days a year in the car, with a trip to Spa and Nurburgring at least twice a year...first trip in 4 weeks :dance:
The Track set up is a set of 17's running R888 tyres and the Pagids, road set up is a set of 18's running Conti-Sports and OEM braked pads :cheers:

"and a trip to Spa and N-Ring"

yeah screw you too buddy!!!


p.s.
How much more UNcomfortable is the M030 for regular driving? Do you know the spring rates of your new set vs. the old? That's the crucial bit. I once had to completely redo ths supsension on a previous car, the new set up sat lower but was far far far better for the real world roads. I added those KYB orange dampers with the little knobs that had 9 different setting you could quickly adjust from the outside. I later installed rear suspension mounts that added some more travel and then I was in love. too bad I sold the car less than six month later!

Shouldn't your suspension be RoW (non M030) already? I was under the impression that all RoW suspensions are at the same height so in your case, the M030 would tighten things up, not not lower your car.

My car dropped with the RoW M030, but its a US car.

LOL, Hi, the car definitely sits lower now.

As far as comfort, it's really not noticeable over stock, but then I like my suspension hard and like to drive hard, so am probably not the right person to ask :)

But in summary, it is perfectly drivable and not 'harsh' in anyway. Re -discovering that connection with the road though is incredible - and being able to feel the soft sidewalls of the P Zeros (current road tyres) squirm on a spirited drive...priceless. The car just feels so much more solid than it ever did - which I'm sure is down to the control arms as much as the new suspension...or total combination.

I reckon it's worth 10 seconds a lap at the 'ring :)

my car has just about 80k on it...

at what mileage shoudl one change the suspension and / or the control arms??

My car has the US M030..... so if/when I change it I could go ROW M030 and go a bit lower.... that woudl be nice...

I'm wondering which of these two upgrades woudl make the most different in feel for an "older" car that is at or nearing 100k???

i've been thinking bushings or contgrol arms ,etc might be something to think about upgrading in the near future but feared it might get oppressively expensive to do it all at once..... so if i do it in stages..i would want to go wih teh biggest bang for the buck first....

Are the ducts on the right for the rear? what is the part number?
I don't think I have any brake ducts on the rear of my 2000 S.

Yeah I don't think mine has the rear ducts either, would like to know if they fit.

I absolutely love the ducts, I had the same front set put in last week I can really see them sticking out from the bottom ... the stock ones are TINY!!! :D :D :D

Any pics of what they look like installed?

Also, are those the GT3 ducts @ ~$30 or the GT2 ducts @ ~$300?

Ok I spend money on crazy things but I'm not that crazy. I got the $30 set.

Plus, the GT2 ducts sit very low, I guarantee they'll come off the car in a week on the streets we have here.

The pair came in at £30 all in. Will get part numbers if needed.

green with envy...

OK here's the list of track I MUST drive one day:

Laguna Seca - check
Infineon (SEARS Point) - check
Nuerburgring - on my todo list
Spa - on my todo list
Monza - on my todo list

2 down, 3 to go :cheers:

First shot is from kneeling from the front of the car looking at the driver's side (wheel turned to the left). Second shot is from the driver's side wheel well. You can see the passenger side duct on the left side in the 2nd shot as well.

http://img197.imageshack.us/img197/7...4181430.th.jpg http://img682.imageshack.us/img682/4...4181429.th.jpg