Then, I have done my job! :cheers:

If you read my comments carefully, the only inference that I made regarding the Techart springs was that they carried a higher price tag simply for the "name". And there are brands of equal " high quality" that probably cost less. Moreover, that H&R likely manufactured them for Techart. At no time did I suggest that they stamp their name on just any product, or that they were inferior to other brands.

Better act quick.

http://www.6speedonline.com/forums/boxster-cayman-vendor-classifieds/148682-boxster-cayman-jic-cross-coilover-sema-sale.html

TechArt springs are made by Eibach
 

and they spec struts with the coils and full coilovers as well. I have just the springs for now...I like the way the car feels. I've had it at a few good tuner shops recently to get some opinions on what to do next (for mostly track use) and the feedback's been consistent: leave the stock struts / TA springs alone, do sways and drop links and you'll get great overall handling without getting the potential harshness of most coilover systems.

I've been seeing these brands for years. I don't know anything about them other than they look to be well made and the prices are very reasonable. A quick search on-line revealed price points around 1k or less for a 986 boxster coilover set-up.

www.d2racingsports.com.au
www.ksportusa.com

These are Taiwanese companies, made in China perhaps. Wouldn't put those in any pcar IMO.

I had k sports on my Talon and at first they were great I was more than happy with them. Had 1 shock blow out but they warrentied it no problem, I thought that was pretty stand up. However after about a year and a half they had all blown out and I was out of warrenty. I have heard they are better now but I probably wouldn't get them again. That being said I had them very stiff and beat them hard and actually didn't know they were blow out till after I sold it since I didn't detect a difference in ride. Like I said they were really good to me but next time I'd spend more for a better brand.

Matt,
I have the m030 with H&R springs. Dont forget that the rear tie rods will need to be replaced. The ride is nice, not harsh.
TRG and tarret are the best.

I have pictures of my car on previous thread I started to show the lowering. The pictures show the car as measured with tape measure.

Also while you are doing this, think about bearings, steel brake cables and rotors/pads as they are items that need to be taken down anyway.

Why do you need to replace rear tie rods? Do you think it's worth it to use m030 shocks or stay with the stock s gear? Yes I was already thinking bearings pads ect while doing this.

you will need toe arms. anyone who does this will.

Alingment is not the issue, it is the camber / toe settings.

the boxster's rear geometry is such that the camber and the toe settings are married so to speak.

what will happen if you dont have them is that you will have to sacrifice one or the other.

camber is more important than toe angle so that if you DONT use new arms, if you set the correct camber you will be very toe out and will chew up tires like nuts.

If you set the toe correctly, the camber will be to little and the car will handle like crap.

I used the tarret arms. You can also use the GT3 porsche racing toe arms. they are more expensive.

I bought the blue cheap ebay ones first and the knuckle was too large to fit into my wheel rims and I had to pay @ 400 for the tarret.

Good luck, and at 200+ each for rear tires, you will be saving a bundle to do it correctly from the start.

I got a killer deal on -30mm Eibach springs. So a long story short, do I have to get any other parts beside the springs?

lowering the car causes the rear toe arms to strech. The lower you go, the longer the rear arms need to be to reach the hub. My HR springs needed rear arms because the stock arms could not reach the hubs.

If you go even lower, you will need to do the same thing for the front, as well as lifting the stearing rack.

the only way to make the stock arms reach is to either really toe out, or decrease camber to zero or even +1.

I tried to be cheap, did the lowering myself, took it to porsche to align. They could not get it into specs and refused to do anything further. I said screw it I will drive it with correct camber but toe out.
I chewed up a new set of PS2, in 3 weeks of daily driving.
cost @ 450$

I got the cheap ebay arms, they where too fat, rubbed my rims.

then on the advise of the dealer, i got the tarret, fit great, alignment perfect, drives flat and nice, tires now last the standard 20K miles or so.

Amen to that:
I lowered with Eibach springs and was too cheap to get rear toe arms.
Ran through a set of new rear tires in 2,000 miles
Now with rear toe arms no unusual wear on the rear tires anymore

Performance cars are complex creatures!!
Change one thing, it effects several others........fix those, they effect several others, each..................... fix those...........

Ever wonder how Ferrari or McLaren can have dominating F1 cars for several years, each year being an update and development from each previous year and then next year, BAMM!! backmarker? They will sometimes make a change or innovation that effects so many other parts of the car, they can chase those changes for an entire year. Sometimes they have gone back to the previous year's car, while they try to sort stuff for next year!

This is something a lot of people don't understand when they modify their cars...

You think putting a stronger engine mount would help? Yeah really it does but it also make your car vibrate like no tomorrow!

There's always, always compromises...

Just ask me how I know this.

How you been, Ekam??
All frozen up there in Canuck land??

reading this thread makes me want to leave my suspension alone... I already have M030 as a factory option, but I've always wanted it just a BIT lower.....

maybe i'll just leave it.. :)