01-19-2010, 07:26 PM
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#1
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Bastrop, TX
Posts: 705
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quick question about alternator
I have been having problems keeping my battery charged. I have got a new battery from Autozone and the problem still returns.
If I let the car sit for a day or so, the battery is very low.
I left the lights on tonight when I got pulled over, and I had to get a jump from DPS after only 10 mins of sitting.
I got a warning for no front plate if anyone is wondering.
Anyway, my question is.....
Should my car continue to run if I disconnect the battery. This is a quick way I use to test the alternator in the old days. The thought is that the car only needs the battery to start. The alternator should put out enough juice to run.
With the car started, battery diconnected, it idles rough.......
If I turn on the lights the car dies.
I dont have a multimeter.
What should the alternator be putting out at idle?
Thanks,
James
__________________
2002 S
Pedro rear stabilizer bar, CF strut braces, Maxspeed headers with 100 cell cats, Fabspeed cat bypass pipes, H&R springs with M030 setup, TRG rear links, EVO air intake, B&M Short shift kit, Raby IMS upgrade, Raby underdrive pulley
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01-19-2010, 07:58 PM
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#2
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Daphne, AL
Posts: 22
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I had 12.1 when I just changed my Alternator tonight. Car started up fine. Then I had about 13.3 or so. You should look for atleast 13 volts to be going into the battery for it to be charging.
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01-20-2010, 07:25 AM
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#3
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: San Diego
Posts: 200
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I don't believe disconnecting the battery with the car running is a good idea. I think I read somewhere that it will immediately kill the alternator by taking out a diode or two. It sounds as if your alternator may be the problem.
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01-20-2010, 09:02 AM
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#4
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Bastrop, TX
Posts: 705
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Yea, I think it is the alternator as well. This is my second one. It is 4 yrs old.
I am going to get a multimeter today and see what the output is. I am planning on going with a 4 inch underdrive pulley in about a week, and if the alternator is low now, it will be worse then.
How hard is it to replace the alternator? I have done it on cars and trucks many times, but this car is so cramped it may be different.
__________________
2002 S
Pedro rear stabilizer bar, CF strut braces, Maxspeed headers with 100 cell cats, Fabspeed cat bypass pipes, H&R springs with M030 setup, TRG rear links, EVO air intake, B&M Short shift kit, Raby IMS upgrade, Raby underdrive pulley
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01-20-2010, 09:58 AM
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#5
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Chicago suburbs
Posts: 1,675
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With the car started, battery diconnected, it idles rough.......
If the alternator wasn't dead before, it is now. The battery acts as a voltage buffer for the electronic system; you remove the buffer and the spikes kill the system.
__________________
JGM
2002 Boxster S
1973 911 Green FrankenMeanie
PCA DE Instructor circa '95
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01-20-2010, 10:26 AM
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#6
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Bastrop, TX
Posts: 705
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Well checked the alternator with multi meter. It seems to be fine. output is 13.8V with 45 amp.
I guess it is the battery...Its is only 6 mo. old and it is the third battery I replaced.
Could there be a regulator or solenoid that I should check next?
__________________
2002 S
Pedro rear stabilizer bar, CF strut braces, Maxspeed headers with 100 cell cats, Fabspeed cat bypass pipes, H&R springs with M030 setup, TRG rear links, EVO air intake, B&M Short shift kit, Raby IMS upgrade, Raby underdrive pulley
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