question regarding cv boot change
 

I'm currently trying to change out my cv boots. I've gotten to the point where I need to remove the 6 hex head bolts holding the inner cv joint flange to the trans. However, when I started to remove the first hex bolt, it started to strip. (it seems that every fastener on my boxster was torqued to 1000 ft lbs by Hans and Franz before it left the factory, which coupled with 90k worth of road build up isn't helping matters). my questions:

1) do these hex bolts have loctite on them from the factory? I hit them with some PB blaster and will let them soak, but not sure if that will make much difference.

2) should i try taking the bolts off w/an impact wrench? I'm thinking w/all the stuff I removed, skid plate, diagonal braces, etc., I have room. I definitely need to get the long hex sockets because I'm having clearance issues with the boot (i.e. my standard hex socket doesn't seat nicely in the bolt's head because the socket portion is hitting the adjacent boot, which is why I started stripping the first hex bolt).

3) the inner boot doesn't look split, but I noticed some cv grease oozing out. once I get the boot off, is there a way to tell that the cv joint is compromised (besides the obvious, i.e., little to no grease left?). I was getting some noise before from the passenger rear, but I believe it was the wheel bearing (which I just replaced as part of this project). now I'm wondering if the noise I heard was from the inner cv joint drying out.)

thanks, guys!

-jimmy

1) I do not believe the factory used loctite, but if the car had a previous owner, the bolts may have been removed for one thing or another, and loctite may have been used. The last car that I did the CV boot replacement on had loctite on everything. I have seen other cars that did not have it.
2) An impact wrench shouldn't hurt, and is a good alternative for stuck bolts. You might also try heating the bolts using a Mapp gas torch.
3) the inner joint is the easy one to check for scoring. You'll need to remove the joint to get the boots anyway, so disassembly isn't too much more work. Chances are it's OK...those things are tough.

thanks, J.Fro,

I ended up using a propane torch on two of the bolts. heated it up for about 30 to 45 seconds and the bolts came right off after that.

in retrospect, I wouldn't use an impact wrench; I started to do so, and it began to strip out the head further. luckily, heating it up worked, along with tapping the hex socket into the bolt head w/a hammer to make sure it was seated properly.

One of the things you have to watch out for is that over time, especially if you've got CV grease leaking out, the bolt heads get gunked up. Consequently, you might not get the hex socket seated nicely, which will definitely result in stripping the allen head. After I did that to one bolt, I ended up taking some brake cleaner to the rest of the bolts and a Qtip. I then put the hex socket in the bolt and tapped it in with a hammer to make sure it was well-seated.