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-   -   Giving Up.... :( (http://986forum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=18624)

macyfilms 11-02-2008 11:20 AM

switch
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Paul
Have you checked the clutch switch with a VOM to see if it is actually opening and closing the circuit?


I will check it today. Is it possible to bypass this switch ?


sam

blue2000s 11-02-2008 11:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by macyfilms
I will check it today. Is it possible to bypass this switch ?


sam

Yes. You can just disconnect the leads to the switch and short them by running a wire between them. It's actually better for the engine to not press the clutch in while starting anyway so I've got my switch bypassed on all my cars.

Just make sure you don't have the car in gear when you start it.

macyfilms 11-02-2008 11:34 AM

switch
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by blue2000s
Yes. You can just disconnect the leads to the switch and short them by running a wire between them. It's actually better for the engine to not press the clutch in while starting anyway so I've got my switch bypassed on all my cars.

Just make sure you don't have the car in gear when you start it.


Okay, I'm going to bypass. If this is not my problem, is there anything else you can think of? I'm running out of ideas. I'm wondering if my immobilizer is shutting me down and I just don't see any damage. Perhaps after sitting so long w/o any battery juice, the system no longer recognizes my key?

sam

blue2000s 11-02-2008 11:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by macyfilms
Okay, I'm going to bypass. If this is not my problem, is there anything else you can think of? I'm running out of ideas. I'm wondering if my immobilizer is shutting me down and I just don't see any damage. Perhaps after sitting so long w/o any battery juice, the system no longer recognizes my key?

sam

Have you tried bypassing the ignition and running power directly to the starter? Easy test with a set of jumper cables.

macyfilms 11-02-2008 11:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by blue2000s
Have you tried bypassing the ignition and running power directly to the starter? Easy test with a set of jumper cables.


I connected the posts at the starter/solenoid and the engine cranked like a champ.

The history:

Battery: replaced AND charged for 24 hours.
Ignition switch: replaced.
Clutch switch: checked, appears to be going in and out and clicking accordingly.
Fuses: all appear good.
Relays: seem okay. switched out relay with same #, still no crank.
Immobilizer: opened box under seat; no obvious sign of any damage of any sort.
Starter: tested, spins fast.
Solenoid/Starter: Cranks engine hard and fast.
Analyzer readout: no problem codes.
Key: appears good; "capsule" inside appears fine.

blue2000s 11-02-2008 11:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by macyfilms
I connected the posts at the starter/solenoid and the engine cranked like a champ.

The history:

Battery: replaced AND charged for 24 hours.
Ignition switch: replaced.
Clutch switch: checked, appears to be going in and out and clicking accordingly.
Fuses: all appear good.
Relays: seem okay. switched out relay with same #, still no crank.
Immobilizer: opened box under seat; no obvious sign of any damage of any sort.
Starter: tested, spins fast.
Solenoid/Starter: Cranks engine hard and fast.
Analyzer readout: no problem codes.
Key: appears good; "capsule" inside appears fine.

Sorry I missed that part. Sure sounds like an immobilizer problem.

Paul 11-02-2008 11:58 AM

Bypassing the switch will at least disable your cruise contol. Bypass it to test or use a VOM, if bad replace it.

Paul 11-02-2008 12:00 PM

I assume this problem started BEFORE you replaced the ignition switch?

macyfilms 11-02-2008 12:07 PM

ign switch
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Paul
I assume this problem started BEFORE you replaced the ignition switch?

Yes, the problem started before i replaced the switch. The switch was very sticky and stubborn, so I was hopeful that this was the problem. An fyi for other readers, while Porsche would only sell me the whole assembly for $160, Audi sold me just the switch for $40.

A silly question I imagine, but can the immobilizer be tested? can it be by passed? Or am I stuck going to the dealer on this one?

sam

blue2000s 11-02-2008 12:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Paul
Bypassing the switch will at least disable your cruise contol. Bypass it to test or use a VOM, if bad replace it.

I never noticed, shows how much I use the cruise control.

Paul 11-02-2008 12:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by macyfilms
Yes, the problem started before i replaced the switch. The switch was very sticky and stubborn, so I was hopeful that this was the problem. An fyi for other readers, while Porsche would only sell me the whole assembly for $160, Audi sold me just the switch for $40.

A silly question I imagine, but can the immobilizer be tested? can it be by passed? Or am I stuck going to the dealer on this one?

sam

Other than reading the codes, which you say you have none, its off to someone that has the correct Porsche tester.

My dealer reprogrammed my key for free, when my immobilizer threw a code saying the transponder code was wrong (new key).

macyfilms 11-02-2008 12:32 PM

dealer time
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Paul
Other than reading the codes, which you say you have none, its off to someone that has the correct Porsche tester.

My dealer reprogrammed my key for free, when my immobilizer threw a code saying the transponder code was wrong (new key).


Well, then, if it's not my clutch switch, I suppose I'm off to the dealer to handle this. Can independent Porsche repair places reprogram keys and immobilizers, or is this strictly a dealer function ?

sg

Paul 11-02-2008 12:39 PM

Only the dealer has one of the codes for your car.

Paul 11-02-2008 12:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by blue2000s
Yes. You can just disconnect the leads to the switch and short them by running a wire between them. It's actually better for the engine to not press the clutch in while starting anyway so I've got my switch bypassed on all my cars.

How's that work for you in the winter?

blue2000s 11-02-2008 01:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Paul
How's that work for you in the winter?

I don't follow the question.

macyfilms 11-02-2008 02:10 PM

switch
 
It appears there are two switches on the clutch pedal. I'm assuming one is for Cruise Control, one is for starter. Of course, i have no idea which is which. I'm hoping Paul or Blue can answer this question.



sg

blue2000s 11-02-2008 02:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by macyfilms
It appears there are two switches on the clutch pedal. I'm assuming one is for Cruise Control, one is for starter. Of course, i have no idea which is which. I'm hoping Paul or Blue can answer this question.



sg


Here's the switch, disconnected and the shorted wires.

macyfilms 11-02-2008 03:07 PM

immob
 
Well then, it must be my immobilizer, as i connected the wires as you showed me and still no cranking.

I'll have to tow to the dealer this week and see if they can reset whatever it is that's shut me down.

I'll update everyone when i get this figured out.


thxx !

sam

Paul 11-02-2008 03:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by blue2000s
I don't follow the question.

Here in Wisconsin when it's -20 or colder, no one would ever try to start a manual shift car without kicking in the clutch first.

blue2000s 11-02-2008 03:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Paul
Here in Wisconsin when it's -20 or colder, no one would ever try to start a manual shift car without kicking in the clutch first.

Are you saying when it's cold out, the drive wheels are somehow mated to the flywheel while the car is in neutral? Not the case.

Maybe I'm still not understanding the question.


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