Check Engine Light on - advice/help?

[23109VC]

UPDATE- I got the codes.

P1128 / P1130

took car out for a drive - maybe went 15-20 miles... it was very hot outside, maybe 90degrees... no reallyhard driving.

i was a mile from home and noticed the check engine light was on. i have no idea when it popped on, i just know when i noticed it.

the car is running exactly the same as it did the last few days. no weird noises, no sounds, no nothing. i pulled over a hundred yards from home, stopped car, pulled out the key, let it sit for a few seconds, then started it back up - everything seemed normal. the CEL did not go away.

it's still there. is there any way I can easily figure out WHAT CEL code this is w/out goign to the dealer?

i don't want to drive it if it is something really really bad, but the nearest dealer is a good 40-50 miles away.

is driving it with the light on asking for something catastrophic / $$$ to go wrong?

any suggestions? thank you. this is a bummer in that I JUST got the car, but I'm optimistic that it's osmething not that bad. the car drove fine, made no weird noises...etc...

or is a CEL going on a big big red flag that the car is about to detonate?

should I run out and get that extended warranty now??

[Lil bastard]

If it's not flashing, annihilation is not immenent! Go to a Pep Boys or AutoZone, they can lend you a scanner to retrieve the codes, then report them back here.

[RandallNeighbour]

Originally Posted by 23109VC

it was very hot outside, maybe 90degrees...

Ha! I hope you were kidding. That's winter temps for Houston :dance:

CE lights (not flashing) are usually emissions related, meaning oxygen sensors or the MAF sensor. If it ever flashes, pull over and call a tow truck.

Worst problem you'll have if it's an emissions sensor is diminished performance or fuel economy if the computer can't sort it out and compensate.

If the code is oxygen sensor-related, replace all four at the same time so they are equally as sensitive. If it's the MAF, you can try cleaning it before you spring for a replacement.

www.oxygensensors.com is a great place to get replacements for the best price.

[23109VC]

OKAY - the check engine light is NOT flashing.

I went out and started teh car and the idle is not terribly erratic, but it seems to be ever so slightly oscillating...at low rpm i can see the needle kind of bumping up and down - but VERY minor.

since i got the car it was making a noise that sounds like air whistling..imagine the sound that an inner tube would m ake if air was seeping out of it - that sound has been intermittently coming from the back left intake area. when it was at the dealer they said they heard it, but lcaimed to not know what it was, and since at that time tehre were no CEL, they said they din'dt do any further inspections. they did say they felt it was intake related..but that was as far as they went.

i wonder if i have some kind of vacuum leak?

my other BIG question - since the engine light is NOT flashing, is it okay to drive the car? i'm not planning on taking it for any hardcore driving, but if i want to go to autozone/pepboys to get the code read - or if I want to drive it to the dealer, vs having it towed... is that okay?

my closest dealer is a good 40 mile drive.

[fatmike]

I've noticed that an annual bottle of Techron seems to make a noticeable difference in how my car runs.

I have nothing to offer on the noise you mention -- that does sound odd though.

[Lil bastard]

loose or split vacuum hose or failing MAF or AOS

[23109VC]

so assuming it is a vacuum leak, failing MAF, or AOS - is it okay to drive it like this?

can the car be further damaged, or can I do engine damage driving it any further?

I'd have to drive 30-40 miles to get to either the dealer or an independent Porsche mechanic. to go to Pepboys tomorrow to get the code read is only a mile or so... they are very close.

i just don't want to worry that if i drove it a mile, or the 30 miles to a dealer - that I might cause further damage or hurt the engine or other $$ item. if the car will not get damaged - but just not run smoothly - that's fine.

is an AOS expensive? I've seen posts on the MAF - not cheap, but not horrible. i would think a vacuum leak is cheap, it's just that it might cost labor to find it...

that hissing noise is audible from the drivers side and if you get down the ground, under the car you really hear it. i tried to take a video of it to record the sound, but my digital camera did not pick up the sound very well. you can hear it great with your ear, but the camera doesn't seem to record the hissing. so the video would be worthless to post...

if i can get a better sound recording, i'll post a video of the noise. if i ge the code read tomorrow, i'll post that.

THANKS!!

[23109VC]

I bought a code reader at Pepboys. they told me that they can't loan them out - they claimed no one loaned them out...anyway..I got a cheapo one for $80 that only reads the codes. they had some nicer onces in the 150-200 range, but I wasn't sure if I would ever really be in a position to benefit from the added functions... i can always take this one back and exchange it if those more $$$ ones actually will help me out in the future..feel free to explain why the ones that give more info are "better" or will be of benefit in the future.

the codes it gave me were:

P1128
P1130

I searched around online briefly and it looks like this has something to do with the MAF. either it's totally shot and needs to be replaced, or perhaps it can be cleaned. I will search around and look for cleaning the MAF.

if it's not too hard, I'll try to take it out and clean it and put it back. if that won't work, i guess i'll have to replace it.

one symptom of a bad MAF - according to my quick search, was decreased performance, and I did notice that the car seemed to lack power..

you guys think it's a MAF?
is there ay way to know if the MAF is worth cleaning? or do they wear out and the car will run better with a new one vs. cleaning due to my car having 73k miles? i'm sure this is the original MAF....i have all the service records and I don't beleive it's ever been changed.

thanks guys!

[Lil bastard]

Here are the explanations for the codes you have:

P1128 Oxygen Sensing Adaptation Range 2 (cylinder 1-3) - Enrichment limit
P1130 Oxygen Sensing Adaptation Range 2 (cylinder 4-6) - Enrichment limit

These are Range 2 faults which covers the engine operating state close to idle. And Type 4 faults meaning Short to B+ / Above upper limit / Rich mixture threshold

It's not likely you'd lose O2 sensors from both banks simultaneously.

The Factory Repair Manual lists possible issues for P1128, P1130 as:

• – Air intake leaking.
  – Fuel pressure too low.
  – Fuel injectors contaminated (carbonized).
  - Fuel supply volume too low.

But, this is not all-inclusive. A Vacuum leak past the MAF can also create a lean condition as could a faulty MAF.

Since you hear a hissing, check first for vacuum leaks, also check the 'j' tube of the AOS as these have been known to collapse and crack. This too could introduce un-measured intake air (do you have any smoke at startup?)

If the MAF indicated too much air (I say indicated because a failing MAF can send this signal even though that's not the case), then again the DME would try to compensate and the O2 sensors would see a 'too rich' sample.

Also, you fail to mention MY. It is also possible that a clogged fuel filter could also throw this code, though probably the least likely cause.

[23109VC]

the hissing noise is what makes me think it is a vacuum leak too.

i'm not really sure how I check for this. i guess i can look around for something that is hissing really loud if the engine cover is off? i don't really know what to look for.

i may just take it to the dealer and let them look at it.

i don't want to waste my time messing with the MAF if that's probably not it. i found the instructions online for removing/cleaning the MAF - but since my car is hissing - it would make sense that THAT is probably the problem. i'd look at vacuum leaks FIRST, and then if there is still a CEL later - then consider the MAF.

is there an easy way to check for a vacuum leak? i saw an online diagram of the intake system and it looks like a spider web of tubes, etc. i wouldn't know where to start.

at least I know it's nothing catastrophic, and I can have some peace of mind that a day or two at the dealer will result in a quick fix.

i could also use this opportunity to ditch the dealer (who the former owner used / my dad) and find a nice independent porsche mechanic closer to where I live. my dad lives 5 min from the dealer - but 40-50 miles from ME. there is no close by dealer. i'm sure there is an independent guy closer than that!

prices are probably more reasonable too.

[mookarma]

For future reference, any autozone and most advance/discount will read the codes for you for free, and some are kind enough to print you out a code report for your car. IMHO, Pep Boys is about as worthless an enterprise as has ever been created. I'd return the code reader and get my $80 back

[heyjae]

Don't forget to check the oil cap. It might be the vacuum leak. Seriously, it may just be loose.

But based on your description, (at least on my S) there is a thin tube that goes from the intake manifold to the area behind the air box. I believe it attaches to the fuel pressure regulator. That tube simply slips over the fitting, so it could come loose very easily. It could be that.

I believe the vacuum tube to the EVAP system comes from the driver's side manifold as well.

[23109VC]

is it pretty easy to get the engine cover off and get at the motor? i've never tried to do it.

i have all the manuals/etc.. i believe the instructions are in there. i'll have to take a look at it and see if I cano bviously see anything leaking..

[Mike_Yi]

Originally Posted by 23109VC

is it pretty easy to get the engine cover off and get at the motor? i've never tried to do it.

Yes. It's quite easy.

[Samson]

Originally Posted by 23109VC

is it pretty easy to get the engine cover off and get at the motor? i've never tried to do it.

Yes, it is very easy. The procedure outlined in the manual takes about 2 minutes, and no tools or anything special is required. The "hardest" part is popping the ball joints off of the top, and with those, just apply light pressure and they'll pop right off.

[shaman1204]

I got a check engine light on my 2001 with about 35or 36k miles. Same codes as you, checked all available resources on the web and figured I would try cleaning my MAF. You have to buy security torx if you are going to do this, I found them at Advance Auto Parts. Cleaned the MAF, disconnected my battery for 15 secs to clear the light and it didn't return. Until about 2k miles later. The car seemed to throw the light when I was in stop and go traffic in hot weather w/the AC on. I checked the codes again, P1128 and P1130 and was going to take it to the dealer, but the light went off while driving a few days later.

Took the car to the dealer for unrelated matter and they informed me I needed a new oil filler flex neck and clamp. My warranty didn't cover "hoses or rubber parts" so I declined the fix and would try to tackle it myself. I found the spring clamp on the oil filler tube that attached nearest the engine was kind of crooked and the tube was not snug. I took some channel locks, took the spring clamp off, pushed the tube all the way on and replaced the clamp with a screw-down type (or whatever they're called.) It is my opinion the dealer could have taken 5 seconds and fixed this, but told me I needed a whole new oil filler flex neck for the tune of $350.

No CEL to this day, knock on wood. I would check for vacuum leaks before doing anything, it could be something simple as what I had.

[RandallNeighbour]

Shaman, you may still need an oil filler tube. If you get someone to pour oil into your crankcase at your next oil change while you hold a paper towel under it on the part that is accordion-like inside the engine compartment near the firewall, you may find oil dripping out.

I had one without a CE light and it only really showed itself when oil was being poured into the motor and it had to flow over the crack.

It's not an expensive part, but a real pain to remove and replace.

Sorry to take this thread off topic, but thought the information might be helpful.