A little help with oil change and lifting vehicle
 

I have my 10 quarts of M1, oil drain plug, washer, filter, and new seal. My concern is jacking the car, or specifically, if it really has to stay level. I don't have four jack stands. Can just one side (left?) be raised (for access to drain and filter) and then lowered on top of an oil pan to fully drain? Then the car can be raised again and finish the job. Has anyone done this and is the car high enough to fit an oil pan? Thanks for the help.

That's exactly how I changed the oil in my car. Raise, position jack stand, remove drain plug and oil filter and while the oil's draining lower the car and wait 20 minutes to completely drain. Simple.

Thoughts
 

Back it over some steps to gain access?

Ramps on a slope?

You have a 10 quart/litre drain pan?

You can do it any way you can safely get your body into the filter area. And just a jack holding the car over you isn't safe. You need something solid holding it up (boards under the wheel once jacked?) .

Remember the exhaust system will be hot.

An alternative is take all your stuff to a oil changing station and see if they will do it for you. Mine will. Cost me $28 labor.

Mike, thanks for the advice. My wife is pretty solid (and strong). She will hold it up for me and as you can see, she's hotter than any exhaust system! :D :D :D

http://img253.imageshack.us/img253/3...fedladyly5.jpg

Has any one ever tried doing an oil change through the dipstick like a MB? I'm curious if we can get just as much oil out or about the same.

In a word... YES !! You can jack up one side, pull the drain plug and then lower the car to drain the oil - assuming your floor is level and the catch pan will clear, it's as good a method as any.

Then jack up the car, place one jackstand (w/ a piece of 2X4 on top) in case the jack should fail, under the car and then retrieve the catch pan and swap the cannister filter.

While I do not usually use this method (I most often change the oil when I have other maintenance to do), I have used it sucessfully on a number of occasions.

The problem with doing a dipstick extraction of the old oil is the likelyhood that any heavy sediment (sand, carbon, metal deposits, etc) will tend to settle on the bottom of the sump.

I have a tool which would facilitate this quite easily - a MityVac MV7201 Fluid Evacuator Plus. This is specifically designed for through-the-dipstick oil changes, but I do not use it for this because of the reasons stated above. I bought it for ATM fluid changes on my tiptronic.

More than adding fresh oil, the primary purpose of an oil change is more about removing all the dirt and grit which accumulates in the existing oil... and top-end extraction just does not do as good a job.

Can you find a friend that has some jack stands and borrow them?

To do it properly I took a 2x4, cut it to 10 inches and cut a 1/4 inch slit in the middle of the 2x4. This slit goes into that ridge under the car so you can lift the car up and put jack stands under the 4 lift spots.

Do it right w/o killing yourself...

Good luck.

-Steve

I do mine w/o jacking. I think the instructions were on Pelican's site.

My variation was to drive up on 2x6s the first time. Used trailer ramps the second time. No problem except for the time I knocked the drain plug into the drain pan.
Which stopped up the pan and put about a quart of oil on me garage floor.

So add kitty litter or other oil absorbent to list of items to keep at the ready.

You will also be amazed at the amount of oil that drains after you think it's done. I got into happy hour mode and left the drain open with a beer can to catch the last drops. Next morning- - - - more wasted cat litter!

Great thanks. As long as it's been done, I'll go that route.






I actually have two ramps that I can use. No access to four jack stands though.