Caliper Painting DIY
 

Hello All -

I will be undertaking the project of painting my calipers this weekend. I did have just a few questions to ask based on using the search option last night and doing some research. I know quite a few of you have some experience with this. I purchased the yellow duplicolor kit (brush), the e-bay black decals, and some high temp clear coat spray as well.

1) Do the calipers absolutely need to be removed in order to get a quality job or does the "garbage bag" method really work well (wrapping one around the rotors)? This would probably be my preferred method if it is reccomended.

2) If they do need to be removed for a quality job, is it essential to bleed, drain and change the brake fluid?

3) Is clear-coat necessary, helpful, or unnecessary? I read that some didn't use it at all, some used a little, and some used a lot and experienced "cracking". I would love to know what has worked for you. I was under the impression that the clear coat helped the decals stay on longer and helped with the shine.

Thank you in advance for any input at all. I will post up pictures when the job is done. :cheers:

You can definitely do them on the car w/out removing them. Removal makes it easier but not necessary.

Definitely put clear on top of the decals. Since you're spraying, take some old sheets /drop cloths and cover the body of the car or you'll create another detailing project for yourself ;)

Foil is very handy.......... plus it's easier to shape and work into all the crevices ;)

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3173/...2d22621347.jpg

Some Random tips:
You'll need at least 2 cans of brake cleaner... I used 3 and probably could have used a 4th.

Once your color coat is dried (overnight) use painters tape to make a base/reference line for the decals on the caliper. The decals are pretty much a one shot deal so the tape helps you line it up before you apply. :)

A hole punch (like for notebook paper) is the perfect size needed to cut a piece of tape to cover the brake pad retaining pin.

You can (and should) pull the bleeder valve dust caps completely off the calipers. A quick piece of painter's tape around it will allow you to get good coverage behind and all around them.

If you do pull the caliper off, you might consider pulling the rotors too (2 screws) and painting the 'hats' at the same time.

While the wheels are pulled and you're waiting for the paint to dry.... use the oppty to thoroughly clean the wheel well liners.

Good luck and definitely post pics of the results when you're done.

I've read into this, because have been considering doing it. The absolute best way to do it is to get the calipers powder coated, but that cost a lot. Most people don't remove the calipers and have no problems with that method. It will be better to remove them, but it isn't necessary, and won't make a huge difference. It will just be easier to paint if you remove them.

The clear coat is a good addition and I would do it, but it's effects are debatable. I have heard of some people using a few coats with great results, and others doing this and having it crack off.
It depends a lot on your driving, if you break really hard often the paint/clear coat is going to have to withstand a lot more than if your gentle. So the cracking/peeling/flaking depends on you more than the paint.

I just did mine. I didn't remove anything (just prep and taping). The end result was better than expected WITHOUT a clearcoat. I used the brush on method. I don't see a need for clear coat. It was a 6 hour job (one wheel off at a time).

Burg,
Do you have any after pics?
I have an arena red box & I'm not sure what color to go with on the calipers.
-B

I was boring...... keep it original and went w/ black. Personally, I think they turned out great and really pop now. They weren't faded much but working on my Boxster is therapy :D so I undertook the project. Anyhow, here are a few after shots (yes w/ a little bit of brake dust showing on the tops of the caliper in shot 3:

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3163/...bcf08d91a5.jpg
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3056/...2a6494fe60.jpg
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3074/...346db242aa.jpg

As you can see, my next projects are:
- repair curb rash inherited from PO (I've threated to do this for 3 years now;) )
- repaint my hats to a lighter grey to better match my spacers/wheels

Good luck w/ yours :)

I did mine off the car. I used the G3 Epoxy Paint system (Red).

Removing the Calipers is an easy job and has a couple advantages. It's a good time to flush and change the Brake Fluid. Also, $1 at a hardware store gets you 4 bolts which match the Brake line thread and allows you to mount the calipers (in my case through the holes of a shelving unit in the garage) this allows you to rotate them for easier painting w/o having to touch them. Also, I suspect that removing them is really easier and less time consuming in the long run than having to carefully mask everything off (especially if you find out after the fact, that you weren't that careful).

As in all things painted, prep is the key. Brake cleaner is a must as is a wire brush (preferably on a cordless drill). This removes all brake dust as well as any rust (which will eventually work it's way through the paint). I spent at least 30 min. on each caliper.

The G3 system is pretty good, but depending upon temp/humidity, your working window can be as little as 3 hrs. once you mix in the hardener. It's enough time to do 3 coats if removed and mounted. I cannot say about keeping them on the car as I didn't, but I know I would be much more rushed if I had done it that way.

There are stencils and labels available. I went with labels because it was easier. So far, after 2 years, they are holding up great.

From my experience, clearcoat is an unecessary and possibly a negative step. The epoxy is very high gloss and has retained this. Clear coat is an extra step, and it's prone to flaking and cracking because of the constant heating/cooling of the calipers. I wouldn't do it, but you could always do it later if you felt the need.

I have had this kit in my garage for 2 months now. I saw that max temp is 70F and cannot get to it here for another 2-3 months. I guess removing calibers and doing it inside with a/c would take care of it....:cool:

I just learned the hard way - if you use POR Brush On Caliper Paint, don’t put clear on top of it. The paint and the clear don’t get along very well and the beautiful paint gets wrinkly and bubbled.

I can't believe I just got an email notification on a 12 year old thread. I've been here for a long time.

Welcome back!