love my boxster more than my acura nsx

i like the informations based on boxster , i like it very much

Mike's web site is http://sites.google.com/site/mikefocke2/mikesporscheboxsterwebpages

reply
 

i like your information based on boxster it is really amazing thanks for providing information

Hi All, I'm new to the Boxster world. I am currently looking at a 2001 Boxster with 68,000 miles, one owner. Seems to be in perfect shape, what should I be looking for in terms of problems and can they be seen before I purchase ie IMS ?

Did you read this thread? In any event, get a PPI done on any car you're considering.

What to expect when buying a VERY low milage car
 

Hi Everyone, I am seriously considering making an offer on a 2001 Boxster today but before I do I could use some sage advice. I'm new to online forums and sincerely hope I posted this in the right place. I have already researched the car pretty extensively as far as IMS stuff goes but most appraisals and maintenance advice i have read are out of date or possibly not applicable to this age and milage. Here it goes.

Details on the car: 2001, Boxster (base) with 16,500 miles always garaged and serviced at BMW/Porsche dealerships. Carfax shows four oil changes over its life which is very good considering the milage (i think). The owner hardly drove the thing and admitted to letting it sit un-started for a long period of time.

Before she began driving it again more regularly (10 months ago), she had to have the fuel pump replaced and gas tank flushed (bad gas). At the same time she also had the battery and alternator replaced, had a new set of four tires fitted, and the oil changed. The IMS bearing is original, and the VIN corresponds with a dual row bearing (was excluded from the class action suit)

Assuming the car is in fantastic cosmetic condition what a fair value on this car today considering I probably need to replace that IMS bearing thats been sitting in engine oil for years?

Should I assume I must replace this IMS immediately even though it is low miles? (I heard "garage queens" have high failure rates somewhere)

I am a Mechanical Engineer with access to jack stands, full set of sockets/wrenches and would try and perform most maintenance/repairs myself so long as no repairs came up where i wouldn't be able to order parts and drive the car until putting them in. (it would be my only car).

If I own the car for five years and put 45,000 miles on it in that time, what should I budget for maintenance and repairs per year (IMS bearing replacement excluded)?

Im trying to figure out how financially crazy/irresponsible I'm being as I don't have a TON of money to throw at a car per year but would still like something fun with an open roof. I wanted 4 seats, but the boxster's two trunks lessens the sacrifice.:D

Thanks,

Brian

Take a read through this thread. You seem to have a handle on some of the issues but 4 oil changes in 15 years is not good. I stick with every 5,000 miles or 6 months, which ever comes first. I would highly recommend you get a good PPI with a mechanic who specializes in Porsche water cooled engines. You are right in that garage queens are more susceptible to IMS failure plus other failures. These cars love to be driven regularly. The adage around here is to plan on around $2000/year for maintenance costs. I am sure the car looks good but it really depends on how the car was stored when not in use. It would be hard to give an estimate on its value without more information and pictures. Run a KBB estimate and see what it comes up with. You might start your own thread to get more responses. Others can help with a good mechanic in your area. Good luck and welcome!

Thanks Bruce.

I can swing $2000 a year, but wow that is more than I would have guessed for sure. As for the oil changes, I could see that being an issue too, but on the other hand I wasn't sure why oil would go bad from just a change in container (engine vs plastic jug) ...I had read some discussion of oil becoming acidic with age, but couldn't figure out why that would occur if the car was not being run??? not doubting, just looking to learn.

Edmunds is $9022 private party, Bluebook is $10,100 private party,
NADA dealer retail is $11,300 all for excellent condition. Are these estimates accurate? Their asking price is $11,500, so if the estimators are correct then I should be going for closer to bluebook or Edumnds? I want to have an idea of a fair price for this car considering it's milage, history (not being run for a few years and potential for problems associate with it), assuming it is in excellent
cosmetic condition with nothing discovered on a PPI.

Bottom line: I don't want to start out in the hole on the first day of ownership because i payed too much.

Thanks again Bruce. If anyone else wants to chime in please do, I value your experience.

-Brian

The $2000/year is just a wag quoted around here but it really depends on the prior maintenance history. I am coming up on four years of ownership and have not spent anywhere near that amount. My vehicle was well cared for and I have done the same with regular oil and fluid changes. I also am not using it as a daily driver but it gets regular exercise. You just have to remember that it is a 15 year old car so no matter what, it will need attention. I would honestly say, get a PPI, so that you know what you are getting and if the report shows anything amiss, then you have that for negotiations. Price wise, off the top of my head, I would want to get it closer to $10k. And yes, oil becomes acidic with age and is what seems to cause IMS failures. Oil gets trapped behind the "sealed" bearing and turns acidic. The theory is high revs will push new and hopefully fresh oil into and behind the bearing. That is why many on here will say to drive it like you stole it, i.e., high revs, and regularly.

Hi ,im just getting my porsche boxter s 2000 today ,i try my car and buy it after one road test, my clutch look so so ...but i decide to buy it anyway, driving to my house around 50 milles away, i get the ride of my life, push it to the limit .5000 to.7000 rpm , sound was incredible !!!! ,i think my clutch was already finish, but now im shure !!! lol i get a very good deal on my purchase saving around $6000 cheaper than the market and im felling pride to install the best quality clutch , the 986 FORUM whit you member give me all the information about what to check, what to buy, and i feel little bit like when im driving my porsche few hour before ... same passion i feel from you PORSCHE owner ! thanks you

Welcome Jean Philippe . . . . Laissez le bon temps rouler!

Also really depends on how much work you can do yourself and how "smart" you buy parts. I just put a bit about $1500 in the Boxster I just bought. The biggest part of that was replacing the old tires (check the date code on the tires.) The rest was plugs, oil, oil filter, air filter, cabin filter, serpentine belt, AOS, HVAC control LCD screen, console bulbs, short shifter, top vent tube, shifter boot, & spare key. Probably have 15 hours of labor in it. If this work had been done at a dealer the cost would be 3 times as much.

Yesterday the convertible top link end snapped and I made the mistake of trying to drive the top back down and bent the clamshell. That will run me another $300 to have the clamshell fixed by a paintless dent guy. Add another couple hundred for the newer more reliable top transmissions and I'll probably hit $2k in my first month of ownership. That transmissions weren't absolutely necessary but I wanted the added insurance of a more reliable design.

Most of this stuff was neglected and old aged parts and I don't expect to see these kinds of costs yearly.

Got to agree, how many boxters do you see broken down by the side of the road or on eBay being sold as spares or repair due to engine failure.

Im aware it can happen but its still better that driving a 1million % reliable toyota corolla.

Peter

I've owned mine for almost 3 months and I'm at just under $700. But I'm not complaining.

how much should a good PPI cost...is it recommended a dealer performs this?

Thanks

I was quoted $300 by the dealer and I paid $150 for an INDY.

That disparity will be standard as well for all maintenance going forward.

I would find a good indie to do it. Check with your local PCA for recommendations. Expect to pay somewhere around $300 at the very least for a decent PPI.

I've gotten quotes on PPIs from two well known, recommend Porsche indies. One was $365, the other was $370 for the "basic" PPI and $560 for a more comprehensive check that includes a leak down compression check...

I'm I getting ripped off coming and going??? :mad:

I second having an indie do it. The dealership would charge a lot more and they have a tendency to recommend a ton of things to "fix". I trust the indies a lot more.