Dead after replacing battery

[jtimblin]

After replacing a dead battery on my 2001 Boxster, everything works but the ignition does not even begin to turn over.

Details;

The ignition switch was replaced over 6 months ago and has worked flawlessly.
The battery died a normal death, startling slowly until it needed a jumpstart to start.
The new battery is fully charged, trickle charged, and full of water.
The battery connections and connections coming off the cables are in great shape.
The battery and oil warning lights come on and stay on.
The radio works properly after entering the code.

The battery was completely dead (and without water) for about a month while I traveled out of the country.

I've tried the trick suggested here, disconnecting the negative terminal and reconnected.

This results in an ignition switch that does not even involve a hidden click anywhere.

A friend with a Honda said he had a similar condition, and needed the car towed to a dealership to have the key reprogrammed.

Has anyone seen this before?

Thanks;

Jeff
Raleigh, NC

"In my opinion, there's nothing in this world, Beats a 52 Vincent and a red headed girl.
Now Nortons and Indians and Greeves won't do,
Ah, they don't have a soul like a Vincent 52"

[rick3000]

The battery in your key could be bad, the ignition could have gone bad.

It sounds more like the car has immobilized it self for some reason. This happens when you try and start the car and the car does not recieve a signal from the key. So if your keys battery is dead, and you tried to start the car, it could become immobilized.

[jtimblin]

Originally Posted by rick3000

The battery in your key could be bad, the ignition could have gone bad.

It sounds more like the car has immobilized it self for some reason. This happens when you try and start the car and the car does not receive a signal from the key. So if your keys battery is dead, and you tried to start the car, it could become immobilized.

Neither ignition key works, including one that's only about a year old.

Since everything worked perfectly up to the time of the car battery died, my guess is that it's most likely related to that, and perhaps the time that it was dead.

Thanks;

Jeff

[rick3000]

You only have to try and start the car once with a key that is not tansmitting, due to a dead battery and the car will immobilize indefinitely. No other key will work after that until the dealer de-immobilizes it.
You will probably have to take it to the dealer to get it fixed.

[jtimblin]

Originally Posted by rick3000

You only have to try and start the car once with a key that is not tansmitting, due to a dead battery and the car will immobilize indefinitely. No other key will work after that until the dealer de-immobilizes it.
You will probably have to take it to the dealer to get it fixed.

I used the newer of the two keys first, so there's no chance that the key's battery is the problem.

JT

[rick3000]

That is wierd, I have no idea what it could be then.
Good Luck figuring it out.

[Paul]

Do the keys still operate the locks and trunks?

[jtimblin]

Originally Posted by Paul

Do the keys still operate the locks and trunks?

Yes, the key still operates the front and back latches. Good call on narrowing that down so that the key's not a factor.

Jeff
Raleigh, NC

[Paul]

It's common for ignition switches to be damaged when a battery is dead. Some owners think they just are not turning it far enough.

It is also common for fuses to blow when a battery is low. Have you checked all of your fuses?

[jtimblin]

Originally Posted by Paul

It's common for ignition switches to be damaged when a battery is dead. Some owners think they just are not turning it far enough.

It is also common for fuses to blow when a battery is low. Have you checked all of your fuses?

I've checked all the fuses, and the ignition switch was replaced with a new one about six months ago. The old switch was a little flakey but still worked. I've also double checked the clutch microswitch.

It's odd that only the battery and oil warning lights come one, along with a brief appearance of the airbag light.

Jeff
Raleigh, NC

[Paul]

It's time to check the alarm system for error codes.

[der Geist]

Do you know anyone with a code reader? If you do see if there are any codes showing and clear them. Then give it a try. I'm not sure if it will help but it sure won't hurt it.

[jtimblin]

Originally Posted by der Geist

Do you know anyone with a code reader? If you do see if there are any codes showing and clear them. Then give it a try. I'm not sure if it will help but it sure won't hurt it.

Just a regular OBDII code reader? I've been wanting to pick up one of those for a while anyway. Any recommendations for places to get code translations?

Jeff
Raleigh, NC

[der Geist]

I have an Actron that I got on the road. I think Pep Boys or Auto zone. This was the nicest one they had and you can look up the codes on the reader. You might post the codes here or at Renntech.org. I think they are all posted there. I am not sure if they are in the bentley manual but I'll be happy to look them up for you if they are. Doing a seach here would probably turn it up as well.

[Tool Pants]

Everything worked fine up until the car battery replacement? What is the replacement battery?

Any chance the terminals were reversed when the replacement battery was put in?

You don't see all the idiot lights go on when you turn the ignition on.

The battery in the remote has noting to do with starting the car. A dead remote battery or no battery just means the remote will not work. You can take the battery out of the remote and it will still start the car. The valet key has no remote or battery.

A code reader is not going to tell you why the car will not crank over. A code reader is for emission related faults.

Removing or replacing the car battery does not "unprogram" the remote or valet key.

This is a mystery.

[jtimblin]

Originally Posted by Tool Pants

Everything worked fine up until the car battery replacement? What is the replacement battery?

Any chance the terminals were reversed when the replacement battery was put in?

You don't see all the idiot lights go on when you turn the ignition on.

The battery in the remote has noting to do with starting the car. A dead remote battery or no battery just means the remote will not work. You can take the battery out of the remote and it will still start the car. The valet key has no remote or battery.

A code reader is not going to tell you why the car will not crank over. A code reader is for emission related faults.

Removing or replacing the car battery does not "unprogram" the remote or valet key.

This is a mystery.

I picked up the Actron OBDII reader listed here, best they had. It's not communicating with the OB computer. I'll check updates to the reader this weekend.

The batter was installed with the proper polarity, although I'm sure that happens to people from time to time.

I did take the battery to Batteries+ to check, and it was OK. It was whatever store brand type 48 they had. I saw one replaced just fine in a 911 while I was there.

On reinstalling the battery the oil light does not come on anymore, the only light is the battery light plus the airbag light while the ignition is turned.

It's a head scratcher, I'll fool around with it a little more before having it towed to the dealer....

Jeff
Raleigh, NC

[Tool Pants]

Where was the battery replaced?

[blinkwatt]

Correct me if I'm wrong but haven't some people experienced multiple ignition switch failures before? I wouldn't rule it out.

[jtimblin]

Originally Posted by Tool Pants

Where was the battery replaced?

I replaced the battery in my garage (the car was immobile) with a type 48 battery from Batteries+

I did check polarity of course, and that the vent was on the correct side.

Jeff

"In my opinion, there's nothing in this world, Beats a 52 Vincent and a red headed girl.
Now Nortons and Indians and Greeves won't do,
Ah, they don't have a soul like a Vincent 52"

[Paul]

So how did this turn out?