I am not sure when it first became available, but the 986 does have it. Early in the car's life cycle it was offered as an option, then later became standard equipment.

It is standard equipment on all of the 987's.

It wasn't my daily driver.

It dipped at idle several times at idle after the accident. Carlsen Porsche is going to take care of that for me after the insurance stuff is squared away.

Hi Gerry,

It was great to meet/hang with you too. I will definitely hit you up next time I am in your area. Thanks again for the tires! Hope my timing is as fortunate next trip up - couldn't have asked for a better meet. There were almost as many P-cars as the entire Boxstoberfest!

PS - yeah, a bit of a difference btw/ an F250 extended bed w/ 6in. lift and the box wrt u-turns...

Could you also post the part nuber for the front GT3 bumper that you have?

thanks

During your incident, did you get out of the normal driving line? Sometimes small rocks, sand, debris build up next to the lanes. It can be hard to see but can be as slick as ice. I got bit this way about ten years ago. Definitely something to be aware of especially with aggressive driving that may push you out of the normal driving line. Hope all works out for you.

Blink stated earlier that this was one of the first good rains in a long while. That also is a very dangerous situation because a lot of dirt, grease and oil is starting to get loosened up in the road surface.

During your incident, did you get out of the normal driving line?

Nope it was one lane switching freeways,I followed behind a ton of other cars. Just bad luck I guess.

Definitely something to be aware of especially with aggressive driving that may push you out of the normal driving line.

I wish I could say I was pushing the car or doing something cool....I wasn't even going the speed limit in the turn,weak.

IIRC, PSM was optional on 986's in 01-04. Standard on 986 anniv. ed. Before that 00 has TC (traction control) optional. And as someone else stated, all 987's come standard with PSM.



Hey, looks like that long black streak slowed you down some. It's a good thing Jersey barriers are shaped the way they are.

I'm so pissed......looks like my car is done for.........

Here is an update,I'm afraid that my car will never be the same after this. By the way Cecil at Bodystyle is AMAZING! I don't know any other bodyshop that will send me pics step-by-step to show me the extent of the damage & why the work is being done. Here we go;

'Robert,

We pulled the bumper, removed the reinforcement bar, the tail lights, and the mufflers to determine the extent of the damage......

As you can see from the pictures, the frame is bent, and there is buckling inside the trunk and on the driver’s side quarter panel as well as the apparent damage to the driver’s side.'

Has anyone had a similar accident? I loved my car,but this doesn't sound good. Is frame damage that bad?

To top it off,AAA is trying to cut corners(blending panels instead of fully repainting),leaving me paying thousands to get the back to OEM standards....... :troll:

Don't get too down yet, Robert. The shop can pull the frame and replace the quarter panel, no big deal. When they pull the frame, most of the trunk damage will pull right back into shape. You may have to fight with the insurance company to have it painted correctly, but they'll cave if you keep the pressure on. They have to pay to fix the car right and they know it. Of course they'll try to save every dime they can. Just don't give up. Rather than continuing to waste time arguing with you and your bodyman, they'll eventually write the check. They're not, however, going to pay to shoot the whole car, if that's what you're expecting. There is a certain amount of blending done on all collision repair. If your guy is as good as you say he is, you'll never see it.

Looking at the car and even taking into account the hidden damage, it isn't anywhere near totaled. It'll be back on the road in no time.

The shop can pull the frame and replace the quarter panel, no big deal.

That's reassuring.

You may have to fight with the insurance company to have it painted correctly, but they'll cave if you keep the pressure on. They have to pay to fix the car right and they know it. Of course they'll try to save every dime they can. Just don't give up. Rather than continuing to waste time arguing with you and your bodyman, they'll eventually write the check.

I will due this.

They're not, however, going to pay to shoot the whole car, if that's what you're expecting.

Not even,I just want my car brought back to same shape it was in the moment before the accident.

There is a certain amount of blending done on all collision repair. If your guy is as good as you say he is, you'll never see it.


My guy told me that the EPA(Environmental Protection Agency) passed some stuff in California changing the blending materials. In order to ensure 100% that it will come out perfect and stay perfect he wants to just repaint anything that should be blended. He said it will come out nice blended but every once and awhile he's seen flaking. AAA is trying to blend both rocker panels and blend the rear panels after they repair them. If the quarter panels are broken I want NEW ones,plain and simple.

Thanks for your input.

AFAIK, rear quarter panels are hardest to replace because they are spot welded in. Unlike doors, trunk, hood and front fenders which are bolt on.


A unibody car (boxster) may not be that easy to just pull out all the damage. However they pull out the frame, the car will not be as strong as it was before. Take an empty soda can. Crush it, then staighten it out. The result is the can is weaker than it was before (on the whole). Same with the car, the creases in the metal are still there, perhaps more shallow because they are hammered out, or in some places cut out. Point is, once the structure is stressed again, chances are it will fold along those same wrinkes with less force. The question is how much damage can you live with? What difference does it really make? Practically speaking, probably none.


Having said that, if it was me, I would not want a new rear quarter panel unless I knew for certain the work was top notch and damage to it was extensive (deep creases). It requires a lot of work and care to do right. Much more than some bondo.
A replaced quarter is easier to spot on resale, seam sealer and rust proofing is rarely as good as OEM, and not many shops have comparable resistance type welders $$, and will most likely mig plug weld it in.


As for paint, where it is blended in usually cracks/crazes/discolors over time because it is thinnest there (less UV protection, and impossible to prepare well enough for optimal adhesion to substrate, etc...). It's better to do the whole panel, than blend into one. Most likely only you will know the difference, if at all.



If the chassis is still square, that's the most important thing. That would be my primary concern. Secondly, as far as the re-spray, I would push for a real good match, perhaps having them shoot a test panel and let it dry (paint looks different when it dries and under paint booth lighting) and have the shop not blend into another panel if possible. Metallics make matching even harder. In the end, relax. We can't keep these cars new forever, though we all would like to. Fix it best you can, and drive on. You'll feel much better when you get it back on the road.

So your saying essentially keeping the quarter panels may be better and that I should focus more on paint job?

Yes. Don't take this as gospel, but I believe Porsche approved body shops MUST have the kind of resistance welders I was speaking of (however, a tool never replaces the skill of the operator).


Post some pics of the damaged quarter and the buckled trunk floor.