help with MAF
 

i got 1123 1125 1128 and 1130 codes.
i tried cleaning the MAF a few times with no success, so im just gonna replace it.
does anyone know where the cheapest place is to get this.
i have a 98 so non e-gas is the one that i need

funny thing is, i think that the MAF is fine, but that its because of the EVOintake that its acting up, because all the parts are connected with silicone hoses, and you know how that goes, you can move it an inch here and an inch there, so maybe thats what is causing it to get the faulty readings, being further away a little or too close,s something like that.... would that be a rational explanation?

i noticed absolutely no power loss, i would even go to say that it increased more with no snorkel and a cone rite by the intake hole in the car. hmmm

when i installed everything i didn't oil the cone any more than what it was on it.

anyone have any ideas?

well those things don't last forever!

here's one for under $200.

MAF link

but do you think that the MAF is causing all of those codes?

PL, thx for the link man. i just ordered it, ended up costing me anothe r10 bux for 2nd day delivery for shippping. sweet.

i started the car today, and wow it didnt really like running, it was kinda sputtering, and u can hear that something is definitely wrong. so ill be waiting for the MAF and then turn it on again to see what is up.

hopefully this will fix the problem. i will let you guys know.


Mladen

I assumed you have already, but did you search those CEL codes on Renntech?
maybe unrelated, but unless I'm going to get some power north of 15HP, I don't mess with oiled filters.

p.s.
Double check your confirmation email on the parts order. after getting 987 floor mats for my 986 (even though I asked for 986) I call in to verify all my orders have the correct model year.

yeah actually they sent me the confirmation rightaway, and it was sent right out. already en route ;)

How about the secondary air injection system....this beast of a system was the cause of my cel.

how do i check for that?


btw, isn't it weird that 4 codes show up at the same time?

Good luck with your problem hope the MAF fixes it! ;)

DJ, we are in the same boat but I got CEL 1128 and 1130 codes and waiting for my MAF to arrive. Should be sometime today. I hope it cures it...

PLease do let me know if that fixes your problem.
i just looked at my tracking number with UPS and it should arrive tomorrow, i have my fingers crossed.
i had the other 2 codes show up all the time before, but big news was 1128 and 1130 and car acting up, so well see

BUT, and this is probably what i should have done before ordering the MAF, although i still think it needs to be changed as they fail all the time, is check the one that i have already by unplugging it and then taking the negative lead off the battery, wait about a minute, connect the lead back on to the battery, and see if the car runs better. if it does better without the MAF plugged then its the MAf that is faulty, and if it runs the same then the problem lays somewhere else and i wasted the 200 or so on the MAF for no reason. (ths info coming from Chris_in_NH that he posted on my other thread over on renntech, thx)

djomlas,

keep your old MAF no matter what, unless you find out for sure it was bad. IF it turns out not to be bad you could probably sell it to somebody one one of the forums for almost what you paid for it since its brand new and people need them all the time. You could also try to sell your old one if it was still good for maybe $50 or something since it was used but still good.

i am not sure if i would even be able to return the one that i bought, IF it turns out that the old one is indeed OK. something like buying a wrong part...i dunno, i actually hope that the MAF is the problem, so that i dont have to investigate anymore and have a calm piece of mind. :D even if it cost me $200 hehehe

from what I read the car can run briefly without the MAF and without incident.
I suppose you *could* try to disconnect the MAF and see if it runs without sputtering. If it runs fine minus the MAF, then armchair Porsche mechanic says it's a case of bad MAF.

i did disconnect it, and car ran worse.
BUT, i never did disonnect it, disonnect the battery and wait a min or two, and then turn the car over....so ill try that when i get home, couse im really curious

it doesn't matter if you unplug the battery before unplugging the MAF. it only matters that the car is off when you do it. if the car ran worse when you disconnected the MAF, the MAF probably isn't the issue. when you unplug the MAF, the car loads a default fuel map that does a pretty good job of running the motor.

i believe those codes are lean threshold on bank one (running rich) and rich threshold on bank 2 (running lean). to me, this indicates a potential vacuum leak. my guess would be the oil separator bellows or the oil fill tube.

well, did the test with unplugging the connector and then the battery like said, and what do you know runs fine, no hesitation,.
reversed it, and runs like ********************. so tomorrow i will be getting the new MAf and i hope its all fixed

great news. when mine went bad, unplugging it cured the problem right away. didn't have to disconnect the battery. glad your car started running right after you reset the ECU.

GREAT NEWS!
put the new MAF, reset the ECU, and the car feels better than ever.

i would like to say that i gained HP, but the fact of the matter is car probably got the power back hehe, love the feel, absolutely no hesitation when gas pedal is pushed, car responds great.

Hey DJ-
I got MAF in too. Only drove for a very short ride. The car did respond much better.
I've started a new thread - should i be worried. When I went to replace my MAF I noticed it. Can you take a look at that thread and tell what you think.
TIA