Need Help with 90K Service

[MNBoxster]

Originally Posted by porschedude

Bleeding brake fluid is quite easy. Buy one of those one-man bleeder system with a hand vacuum pump (try harborfrieght.com or sears). Instructions are all there but first suck out most of fluid from the reservoir/master cylinder (from the top), then fill up with new fluid. Afterwhich, remove one wheel at a time and follow instructions provided with the bleeder system....very easy.

Hi,

Using a Vacuum Bleeder can be more difficult and less effective than a Power Bleeder. I don't recommend them for Modern Cars.

Once you open the Bleed Valve, with the MityVac, you can draw air through the threads making it more difficult and risking introducing air into the system. And, it's less convenient, or a two-man job, as someone must monitor the fluid level in the Reservoir. Where the Power Bleeder can be filled with sufficient fluid to complete the job.

Also, on ABS equipped cars, you need a certain amount of pressure to force fluid past the ABS Valves (and in cars equipped with TC5.3 or PSM, you need a PST2 to actually activate these valves - you cannot DIY these cars). This pressure is usually 15-25 PSI (on an older Boxster I don't recommend going higher than 19 PSI so you don't risk damaging the seals in the Master Cylinder, though you'll still have enough pressure to force the fluid/air through).

The Power Bleeder is overall much easier and neater, and well worth the $25 higher price. I think this is important because the easier the task is, the more likely an owner will change their fluid on the recommended Service Interval of every 2 yrs...

Happy Motoring!... Jim'99

[Adam]

I used the old pump the pedal method for the brakes with a friend and it worked great. I recammend you invest in this Bogg read it like the bible.

[MNBoxster]

Originally Posted by Adam

I used the old pump the pedal method for the brakes with a friend and it worked great. I recammend you invest in this Bogg read it like the bible.

Hi,

Again, not really recommended for a Master Cylinder with some miles on it. I've seen too many of them fail shortly after the system was bled using this traditional method - it's really hard on the equipment + you're still having to monitor the Fluid Reservoir throughout the whole process...

Happy Motoring!... Jim'99

The main reason im opposed to doing the brakes myself is that I dont want to invest in the bleeder, and I dont want to have to take off my wheels again. How much is a power bleeder, maybe I will consider it. I would like someone to comment on the spark plugs, any good brands? Size? Hot or cold? Just unscrew the old and put in the new? Ive done plenty of work on small engines (complete tear down and rebuild), but I dont want to risk anything and be kicking my ass when my cylinder 4 dies because the piston hit the plug or something.

[MNBoxster]

Originally Posted by boggtown

The main reason im opposed to doing the brakes myself is that I dont want to invest in the bleeder, and I dont want to have to take off my wheels again. How much is a power bleeder, maybe I will consider it. I would like someone to comment on the spark plugs, any good brands? Size? Hot or cold? Just unscrew the old and put in the new?

Hi,

The Motive Power Bleeder will run you slightly less than $50 - search Amazon for best price.

For Plugs, stick with the OEMs - can't do better...

Happy Motoring!... Jim'99

[John V]

Originally Posted by boggtown

The main reason im opposed to doing the brakes myself is that I dont want to invest in the bleeder, and I dont want to have to take off my wheels again. How much is a power bleeder, maybe I will consider it. I would like someone to comment on the spark plugs, any good brands? Size? Hot or cold? Just unscrew the old and put in the new? Ive done plenty of work on small engines (complete tear down and rebuild), but I dont want to risk anything and be kicking my ass when my cylinder 4 dies because the piston hit the plug or something.

You have to take off your wheels regardless. It's too hard to get to both top bleed screws on the calipers. Honestly if you are worried about taking the wheels off you might not want to undertake this work! You have to remove the wheels to do the plugs and measure the brake rotor thickness, too!

Lol, see, no one said I had to take off the wheels to do the plugs. Honestly, ive already taken my wheels off and on like 10 times. I just didnt want to do it because it takes me a long time to jack up each side and jack stand it. Also, if Im gonna bleed the brakes, should I go ahead and get stainless brake lines?

[MNBoxster]

Originally Posted by boggtown

Lol, see, no one said I had to take off the wheels to do the plugs. Honestly, ive already taken my wheels off and on like 10 times. I just didnt want to do it because it takes me a long time to jack up each side and jack stand it. Also, if Im gonna bleed the brakes, should I go ahead and get stainless brake lines?

Hi,

You don't need to pull the wheels to do the Plugs, at least I didn't...

Happy Motoring!... Jim'99

[John V]

Originally Posted by boggtown

Lol, see, no one said I had to take off the wheels to do the plugs. Honestly, ive already taken my wheels off and on like 10 times. I just didnt want to do it because it takes me a long time to jack up each side and jack stand it. Also, if Im gonna bleed the brakes, should I go ahead and get stainless brake lines?

You don't have to remove the wheels to do the plugs, but it sure makes it a lot easier. You do have to remove the wheels to inspect the brakes, which is part of your service, correct? And you do have to remove them to flush the brakes (unless you have huge wheels - my factory 18's barely clear my stock brakes).

There is no need to get stainless brake lines. Unless your stock hoses have deteriorated you won't see any improvement at all.