WTB rear trunk lock and latch.
 

Hello all,
I need a rear trunk lock mechanism and the striker (with spring plunger) plate.
97-04 Boxster.

let me know how much w shipping to 95050.

thanks, Matt

P.s. long cable to front door would help too.

I'm making a latching system for the clamshell top, cause I gutted it to a pure manual.
And the cs rattles without the drives...

I'm curious how you converted it to manual and how you plan on using the latch mechanism? I'm wanting to convert mine to save weight and for simplicity too. I would love to get rid of the motor and both transmissions. I haven't given it a lot of thought on how to do that yet, but the loose clamshell was one concern I had. The latch idea sounds like a good idea to keep the clam from rattling.

To each his own but I guess I really don't understand the desire to convert a Boxster top to manual operation. I've always been impressed with the simplicity of the Boxster power top mechanism. Unlike competitors with electric/hydraulic systems, the Boxsters use of one small motor, a few micro switches, a controller and drive cables and transmissions.

My mechanism has not been perfect, I've replaced a broken rod end and two drive cables (only one was bad but did the other while I had it apart). I found the whole set up to be very easy to work on.
As for weight savings, I can't imagine all components together weighing more than 6 or 7 pounds (a big 1/2 horsepower gain).

Now the top on my wife's 350Z is a whole other story! Crazy crap happens when you hit that button. I have no idea how that thing works but I just hope it continues to do so!

Sure I would like to push a button and the top comes down, but it's not that easy with the plastic window. You have to get out of the car and perform the karate chop. That doesn't save you much time or effort. I have a few cars around here that are missing the transmissions and I can manually raise/lower the top faster than the motor can. If I'm already having to get out of the car to karate chop the window, I'd rather just do it myself.
This wouldn't be the only thing I do to loose weight. Little bit here, little bit there and it can add up to a significant amount. I see a lot of boxsters that are turned into race cars and I'm amazed at the time and money people spend just to loose a few ounces or less. My box will never be a race car but I do plan on using some of those weight saving ideas I see. My boxster is a toy and will never be my daily driver. I don't need it to be comfortable or civil. Heck if it wasn't for my wife, I'd also consider getting rid of the A/C too.

Matt, if Woody doesn't have what you are looking for, ping me. I will be back from turkey day trip on Sat and back in the shop on Sunday

Dennis

I get it Woody! I have an 84 Alfa spider that (obviously) has a manual top. I love it! It is by far the fastest top to lower or raise out of my 4 rag tops (BoxS, M Roady, 350Z Roady and Alfa).
When I had the problem with my Boxster's drive cables, I used my Boxster top in manual mode for about a month before I got around to fixing the problem. My clamshell would rattle a bit occasionally but not enough to really bother me. Initially, I didn't know the extent of the tops problem and thought that if it was going to be expensive, I'd stay manual. When I got around to doing the repair and working with the components, I found it wasn't bad (or expensive) or complicated at all.

I understand about the plastic window chop...did it all the time on the Box and the MRoady. I've since replaced the Box top with the glass window top. I love it.

Best of luck with your build. Subscribed!