Hello, I've recently purchased a 1997 Boxster a little past 40,000 miles. I've noticed a bit of an electrical problem, so it would seem. Hopefully I'm posting this in the right area. If not I'll be happy to move it to the right area.
Now, granted, I understand the car is 13 years old, and it did sit for a few years in the lot of the dealer I got it from, but I noticed that the radio very briefly cuts out at random while driving. The sound will cut out for a split second and come right back, sometimes a few times in succession, other times once every few minutes. I also noticed while driving at night that the headlights and dash lights seem to flicker and dim while the car is running. I haven't noticed a change in the car's idle to correspond with the dimming and flickering, and I gave the battery terminal connectors a good shake and tug to make sure they're snug, and they are. Could I be looking at a bad ground somewhere? If anyone can let me know what areas I should look into or components to check, ground locations and such, any help would be appreciated. Thanks for you time.
Never had any problems like this on my 2000 except sometimes the radio or cruise control go off until I start the car again, but from what I have seen on this thread I would GUESS that it's ignition switch related & you might want to start there. Do a search for ignition switch & you may agree.
"...I also noticed while driving at night that the headlights and dash lights seem to flicker and dim while the car is running...."
Originally Posted by Overdrive
I had similar symptoms with my head lights and dash lights - replacing the ignition switch resolved those issues, along with some other gremlins in the stereo related to it turning on and off randomly.
The ignition switch itself is pretty inexpensive, but can be tedious to install due to the location under the dash. Pedro has a great write up I followed to replace the switch here:
Hey, everyone, just putting in a little update. I finally got some time to speak to the dealer I bought the car from, and I explained the issues I was having, showing him the information I got from you guys and Pedro's write-up. I'll be going to pick up the switch this afternoon and dropping the car off to him next Tuesday for the whole day to look into my issues (this switch, no cold air from A/C, etc.). Might as well get what I can out of my warranty period. I'll update again to let you all know whether or not it solves the problem. Thanks again!
More updating for today: Went to the local Audi/Porsche dealership, gave em my part number and got the $35 switch for $29.75. I was about to show concern for something I thought needed to be there that doesn't, though. I thought I'd seen some sort of covering for those contacts at the bottom, but it seems there isn't one (can one of you confirm?). I can just see in the pictures above that the contacts are exposed on that switch, as well. And holy crap, this thing is tiny!
Well, got the part, so I'll be dropping the car in a little less than a week to get some things worked out, this included. Hopefully it'll be just what she needs.
Mods Sport Techno style wheels, H & R springs, Rear Stress Bar, painted center console & bumperettes, desnorkeled, Sumitomo HRTZ III, Fix-A-Flat(-30lbs) & Top Speed exhaust(-18lbs)
Repairs Clutch,Flywheel,c.v. boots, front driver wheel bearing,radiator fan,headlights switch,r.m.s.,i.m.s...the list goes on
"FYI if you ever need to order the part again... www.autohausaz.com $11."
Originally Posted by blinkwatt
Thank you, blink, I'll definitely check these guys out in the future, especially if they carry other parts for the car. I just wanted to make sure I got the right one this first time around, and the highest it could be ($35) wasn't all that disagreeable for me. I'm just appreciative of the fact that there are some parts on this vehicle that don't go into the 3 and 4-figure range.
well, had them change the switch, which did not resolve the problem, unfortunately. Surprisingly, the old switch looked nearly as good as the one I bought from Audi...I really had to check to see the slightly higher amount of corrosion on the contacts to convince myself that he had indeed replaced the switch...and am just now literally realizing I should check for the Audi symbol on the part.
Here's some more info I've noted while driving I figure I should share that might help others recognize the issue:
- when driving the car, I will almost consistently get headllight and instrument light dimming and/or radio cutout when I initially step on the brake, and it seems to happen more often when in motion versus stepping on the brake when stopped. I've tested this out a few times and lifted my foot and pressed again a few times in succession. At night it is especially noticeable to see the headlights and instruments dim briefly and come back, or to see them doing their flickering thing in the reflection of the lights on the body of the vehicle in front of me at a light.
-If I have a bit of a slow start where the RPMs drop pretty low, where it seems the car could potentially stall, the lights will dim and the radio will cut out, all of which goes right back to normal once I'm rolling.
-This one I can't confirm entirely, but it seems that sometimes when making small adjustments to the accelerator input that the radio seems to cut out during this. It will sometimes do this as well if I lift off of the accelerator to begin breaking or otherwise slowing down, so somtimes I can get two radio cutouts in a row, one from the lift, the other from stepping on the brake.
-It is any and all lighting in the vehicle, from the dome light to the little door mounted lights, and seems to be only when the engine is running that this occurs, though I'll have to try playing the radio, turning on some lights, and stepping on the brake just running off the battery to see what happens then.
Anyways, he managed to resolve pretty much all my other concerns with the car unrelated to this (I have cold air from my A/C now ), which is great, but my light flickering and radio cutting out are still occuring. And I will say, I don't often drive with the radio or a CD playing, I prefer to listen to my cars when I drive them, but it's kind of annoying when you occasionally do so and have the thing cutting in and out. Can anyone tell me where else I should have him look for a problem? Could it be the alternator? I pretty much have this week and the next to get it resolved while still under the warranty, so I want to try and do so. Thanks again for all the help so far...hopefully I'll be able to get this fixed.
This sound like you have a high resistance grounding problem.
Try removing both battery connections (make sure you have the radio code beforehand) and clean them both thoroughly - including the internal faces of the clamps.... grease the cleaned external connections to stop future corrosion.
The other end of the negative terminal (-) connects to the chassis - this must be rust and corrosion free. Wire brush (emery cloth) the mating surfaces after removal and make sure the connection is tight.
The Boxster headlights are a "plug in" type which could have a high resistence connection which robs the rest of the electical system of voltage.
If you have a multi meter, you can sheck the resistence of the various grounding (negative) terminals but this can be very time consuming and if you don't have an electrical background a little confusing.
Hope this helps....
__________________
2001 Boxster S (triple black).
2001 MV Agusta F4.
Last edited by Steve Tinker : 07-29-2010 at 08:40.
Steve, thanks for the advice there. I don't have a meter handy, unfortunately (one of those round-to-it items I haven't gotten around to ), and this of course is a time where it'd be handy. I'm trying to remember where the ground connection for the battery cable is located. Was it somewhere in the passenger side fender?
I'll make a note of the items you've listed, and I'll likely be bringing the car back to him on Tuesday to have him attempt this. Thanks again.
Anyone got anything else I can have checked out?
EDIT: Forgot to mention, I checked into something else last night. I opened the door so the interior lights would be on, no key in the ignition, and pressed on the brake a few times to see what would happen. No flickering of those lights, though I also noted that unlike some cars, the brake lights didn't light without the car on. So I put the key in and turned it to ON (didn't start it), and stepped on the brake a few more times. Just about every time I got a little dim from the lights. They pretty much stayed steady unless I was doing that. Turned on the headlights and did it again, got some momentary dimming from them as well on brake pedal presses. So it does kind of sound like what you were saying, Steve. If anyone else has an idea of what might be afoot, lemme know. Thanks again.
"Thank you, blink, I'll definitely check these guys out in the future, especially if they carry other parts for the car. I just wanted to make sure I got the right one this first time around, and the highest it could be ($35) wasn't all that disagreeable for me. I'm just appreciative of the fact that there are some parts on this vehicle that don't go into the 3 and 4-figure range. "
Originally Posted by Overdrive
THANKS FOR THE LINK ON AUTOHAUZ. I PURCHASED MY SWITCH TODAY. HOPEFULLY THAT WILL SOLVE A FEW OF MY GREMILNS
__________________
2006 Hummer H3 - RED
1997 Boxster Guards - RED
2008 Yamaha WR250X - BLACKED OUT
HOUSTON TEXAS
I recently had some issues similar to yours and it ended up being my alternator.
To test it you will also need that 'round-to-it' multi-meter...
With the car running, test it at your battery terminals and the result should be 13-14v, if I remember correctly. I can't remember if I removed the ground or not but if you do a search on the forum you can find out the proper procedure to do the test.
Mine was putting out 11v which told me it was not generating enough power to charge my battery and help run the car's auxiliaries. Once I changed my alternator the problem went away.
"I recently had some issues similar to yours and it ended up being my alternator.
To test it you will also need that 'round-to-it' multi-meter...
With the car running, test it at your battery terminals and the result should be 13-14v, if I remember correctly. I can't remember if I removed the ground or not but if you do a search on the forum you can find out the proper procedure to do the test.
Mine was putting out 11v which told me it was not generating enough power to charge my battery and help run the car's auxiliaries. Once I changed my alternator the problem went away."
Originally Posted by idheaton
idheaton, thanks for your input. I'm going to whip up a little list of all these things to have them checked. At this point I'm suspecting the alternator, too. Seeing as the ignition switch change didn't solve the problem, I'm back to my original suspicions of either grounding issues or a bad alternator. I guess we'll see what happens next week, and I'll be letting you guys know. Thanks!
well, had them change the switch, which did not resolve the problem, unfortunately. Surprisingly, the old switch looked nearly as good as the one I bought from Audi...I really had to check to see the slightly higher amount of corrosion on the contacts to convince myself that he had indeed replaced the switch...and am just now literally realizing I should check for the Audi symbol on the part. 
Linear Mode
