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The 997 Distribution T has just about zero turbulence because of the generous radius it has coming off the TB tube, allowing the air to flow smoothly into the plenum. IDP plenums are a waste of money. I had a long discussion with the guy that does the tuning at Softronic and he said never to use one. He also said not to use the 987 MAF housing as it will hinder low end performance, unless your foot is to the floor 90%, using the 987 MAF housing is a bad idea for a street car. |
I am so in love with this car!
Got the larger air intake pipe installed today. Took her for a spin, easy go til she warmed up. The larger pipe did not hurt lower rpm or around town driveability. Then I headed for my favorite back roads. Just happen to have a new style Camaro SS pull out in front of me and the driver wanted to play. He probably isn't very happy, not only was I waiting on him through the corners, when we hit the straits, my car pulled on him. There was no place he could get away from me. Never thought this car could hang with a Camaro SS, much less pull on one. :D Ordering headers tomorrow. Already have cat delete pipes and Borla muffler sitting here waiting on the headers. Can't wait to get those on her. :) |
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I hear ya mate. I had a similar experience with a late model GT Mustang the other day at rolling speed, and I came away thinking "man this little crate can hold its own" after imagining the 'stang would walk on the Box. If not love, I Certainly have a bit of an unhealthy fondness for this ride. |
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The late model (pre Coyote engine) Mustang GT I could pull before my mods. I'm ready to try out a Coyote engine Mustang now. :cool: |
I have a stock 99 w/ 18" classic sports. More or less I figured, "lets see what happens when I downshift here and try to hang with this dude cuz he's obviously got his foot on the floor". I am sure off the line the Mustang would take control, but starting at highway speed, not so much
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Radium- when you did the row flash, did you need any pass codes specific to your VIN? I ask because I want to have my local Porsche Indy shop do the row ecu flash for me when I have it in for an alignment (after installing a M030 suspension).
Thx- |
Radium- when you did the row flash, did you need any pass codes specific to your VIN? I ask because I want to have my local Porsche Indy shop do the row ecu flash for me when I have it in for an alignment (after installing a M030 suspension).
Thx- |
yes, you will need the codes for your car. porsche dealers have them, but are wierd about giving them out. indy should be able to get them if he has a pst2 or piwis and regularly uses it (the codes are required for many of the functions you perform with the tool). i "know a guy" that got me mine for fifty bucks.
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So, I got all the parts to do the mod and took most everything apart but can't get the driver bank intake manifold completely out of the way. There is a metal hose that runs right thru the intake mani. It goes between upper runners and bottom flange where it meets the head. It seems I got to go by feel to replace the 3 gaskets to mani/head without mani completely out of way. Anyone experience this? What exactly is that hose/pipe? AC line, or coolant? Old air box is finally out 987 ready to go in. And Wow that new TB is quite a bit larger.
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I think that it is part of the aos system - it vents that head. it was a b!tch to get off so I left it there and was able to accomplish all I needed to just by shifting the intake runner over as much as was allowed by the hose. you can make more room to shoehorn the new airbox in by temporarily bending the rear left engine compartment cover tab out of the way.
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It also helps to lower the motor. Unbolt the front mount and jack it down a few inches. I had to do both to not mangle the box in and out.
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Kram, TRK, I'm following your build and man, the 987 airbox seems next to impossible to install. Kram I copied your use of retaining the buckle snaps on small end of box but even with both left engine cover retainer bent up out of way I'm having problems. If I start pushing front end down and in the flange buckles tend to hit oil cooler. Did you have to fight this bloody thing to go in? Also did you guys retain all 3 mounting points for box? I'm thinking of just cutting the very front one and use 2. The intake manifold and fuel rail are both out of the way albeit limited by hard pipe that runs through it. I know you guys made it work so what am I missing here? Please advise as once it's in its downhill for me. Thanks do I need to lower the engine mounts now? Ugh.
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Bang for buck
Kram, Did you have to remove your oil cooler? Lower your engine mounts? Mines 02 and should not be any different than 03.
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Ok, So thru diligence I took the intake runner completely out via disconnecting Aos hard line. That gave me more room but not enough. Had to really bend the engine cover points on body and it finally fell in there. So relieved now as I think this is the hardest job.
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Kram, TRK, Thanks to you guys and various others on the forum I completed the mod in 3 days. The biggest hurdle is infact the 987 airbox install. Just took a spin around the neighborhood and although the ECU is still probably adjusting it was a spirited run. Seems to be missing just a bit of gusto off line but maybe that is due to the elimination of the Hemholz chamber. Other than that it is returning favorable punch throughout the rpm range. It seems to be more linear in performance now. To the other wrenchers, this is definitely a cost effective way to add some power, yes there were moments of disgust and a lot of cussing but in the end all worth it. Persevere and you will be rewarded. Make sure when disassembling the intake runner mani to cover the openings so nothing falls in. The AOS connection that cuts thru the runners can be connected from front engine access too. Just one more thing, the Aos connection on new dist-t is in a different position. I made the Aos connection there but disconnected at the Aos and ran a short length of tubing to connect the extra distance the hose needs.
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i used a heat gun and was able to get the oem aos hose to work. glad the project worked out for you.
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Thank you, kram and all the others who have contributed to this and other threads that deal with this topic. I have already purchased the 987 airbox, TB, and Y connector. However, I am confused when you talk about the MAF housing. I understand you must use the stock 986 housing and MAF sensor but don't understand when you say you put the 986 housing into the 987 housing so you can clip it on?? I am not getting a visual? also, somewhere in these threads there is discussion regarding a e49 5 series BMW MAF housing?? Can someone explain and add pics if possible? Also, has anyone done this mod without removing the Left intake manifold? Can the airbox be removed/installed by just lowering the engine?
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Mike, As one who subscribed and did this mod you keep just the end of 987 maf housing that buckles to 987 airbox, cut most of it off and then graft the 986 housing into it. As you see from the pics earlier the taper section is where it's plastic welded and joined. Be sure to get that honeycombed air flow straightener in there before the maf too. To get 987 airbox in you will have to bend the engine cover tab on front and rear of driver side. There was no getting around it for me. I did remove the intake manifold, makes it easier cause it's tight in there.
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Ok Lapister, thanks! I have ordered most of what I need based on Kram's shopping list. Once I have the pieces it will make more sense but don't plan on doing this mode at least until next year. In the NE we are getting ready for winter.
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Would you say the majority of the power increase came from the T and TB? Lets say vs the 987 box? |
And now I'm thinking how this mod would go using Ben006 plenum.....
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My bang for buck mods, I couldn't live without them and they don't break the bank.
AutoTop DIY (£20 / $26) This makes the roof operate with one touch, rather than holding it. It also allows you to operate it on the move without the need to use the handbrake or stop the car. Great for slow moving traffic on the motorway/highway where you can't exactly stop, and it starts raining. Operation: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9JIRxSIefpA Guide: http://986forum.com/forums/diy-project-guides/51822-autotop-diy.html Wheel Refurb (£25 / $33) Wheels really set off a car, especially a Boxster with its enormous brakes. After some lacquer peeling on my wheels, I decided to refurb the wheels myself. These are only the second set of wheels I've done, and I've had no experience prior to the previous. It's very easy to do if you take your time and, as you can see, the results speak for themselves. If you want to know how, just message me. Before: http://i.imgur.com/hxeTGqyh.jpg After: http://i.imgur.com/oJ6W20dh.jpg http://i.imgur.com/rnMAZy0h.jpg Parking Sensors (£15 / $20) A ridiculously easy installation (the bumper comes off with around 10 screws), and the sensors are cheap and wired in very easily. The wires are tapped into the reverse light wires so when they turn on, the sensors turn on. Simple. Has made me ensure safe parking without scratching the bumper, and has also added an optional extra to the car to make it look all-the-more premium. You can just about see them in this photo: http://i.imgur.com/aHLLEQ7h.jpg Exhaust Bypass (£130 / $170) This is a must for me. Operates in almost identical way to the PSE, but without the electronic valves. Two pipes are welded from the exhaust just after the CAT's, straight to the tailpipes. The result is a car which sounds completely exotic, and better than any exhaust system I've heard for the Boxster S. http://i.imgur.com/cRIdFZbh.jpg You can just see the pipes going into the tailpipes: http://i.imgur.com/SfwASsSh.jpg And how they're routed. It's very simple. http://i.imgur.com/sa1XWBqh.jpg Before: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9zwazw6F6D0 After: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iXa-0kXSWUQ Driving: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lNejHcEOu1A There we go! |
Subd for future project. Great info here...
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Geraintthomas - You exhasust bypass mod sounds good. Would it be possible to get a few more photos? Maybe the next time its on the lift snap a few more. I just want to make sure I'm clear where the pipes are routed... Thanks for the post :D
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The start of the pipe is where the photo shows, just after the cat. The other end just needs to exit the back of the car - you could technically stick them straight out the back if you wanted, as they're just there to let the extra noise out. But instead, put them straight into the sides of the tail pipe tips so it looks nice, as seen in the other photo :)
I took a video for you, just to show the underneath. As you can see they didn't do a great job of cutting cleanly through my exhaust tips, so I'm going to have to tidy that up with a dremel, but you can't see it at all unless you're under the car. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q5vwJXkmul4 Skip to 0:30, that's when you hear it pop ;) |
Sorry guys that I just dropped out for a bit and didn't get back to some questions
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Never did get the headers. The place I ordered it from said it was on back ordered, but would be in a couple of weeks. After 3 weeks I got back in touch with them and they said, just a couple more weeks. Waited 3 weeks and still nothing. So I got in touch with them again and they said it will be shipped out the following week for sure. Well that didn't happen and I didn't want to get past the time I could do a charge back on the charge they had already taken. So I got with my credit card company and had the money refunded back. Went to order the same headers from another place and it's out of stock right now lol. |
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