986 Forum - The Community for Porsche Boxster & Cayman Owners

986 Forum - The Community for Porsche Boxster & Cayman Owners (http://986forum.com/forums/)
-   Show and Tell Gallery (http://986forum.com/forums/show-tell-gallery/)
-   -   BoxsterLS376 introduction - LS3 conversion :) (http://986forum.com/forums/show-tell-gallery/54328-boxsterls376-introduction-ls3-conversion.html)

Lcrivers816 04-15-2015 04:24 AM

I would have probably parted out my LSx build if I didn't find this thread. You saved me haha. Might have to schedule a road trip to Georgia to have an LS Boxster meet. :cheers:

BoxsterLS376 04-18-2015 01:59 PM

E-brake update - more clearance for Clarance~
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Lcrivers816 (Post 445038)
I would have probably parted out my LSx build if I didn't find this thread. You saved me haha. Might have to schedule a road trip to Georgia to have an LS Boxster meet. :cheers:

Sounds good to me!! Glad you decided to press on! :)


Well as I said those little spacers in the back were no good and lifting the rear of the trans back up caused clearance issues with the main crank bolt and the E-Brake holder again, so...

Motor out again, hopefully for the last time before really hooking it all up and getting this bad boy on the road. I started by shaving down the crank bolt some more as well as the E-brake holder but just didn't think i'd be happy enough with that to go through the effort of putting the motor back in to check so I started looking at other options. The only real option is to relocate the EB holder again so I decided to try and mount it to the back side of the support brace inside of the cooling tunnel~

Well lots of trimming of both the EB holder and a bit of trimming on the left side of the cooling tunnel so the cable has clearance and viola!

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1429393780.jpg
http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1429393805.jpg
http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1429393830.jpg

This should net me all the room I need at the nose! I should have at least 1/2"' more room now so hopefully that is done and done~

Other things on the to-do list while the motor is out...

Tapping the cylinder head for the Porsche coolant temp sensor~
Test fit alternator and a/c compressor ( fix a/c bracket mounting hole )
Fix shotty body work :)

I'm sure there is something i'll forget but it seem with this project there is always more to do :)

Sorry for the video quality, I may have gotten the lens dirty but none the less, here is todays update video:

https://youtu.be/A5Dwr16ds_k

Thanks!
J

martsink 04-21-2015 07:01 PM

Hey John,
Just curious, how much is that turbo going for?

Vlad

BoxsterLS376 04-22-2015 10:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by martsink (Post 446194)
Hey John,
Just curious, how much is that turbo going for?

Vlad

Owner is basically trying to get his money back out of it - $63K~
98K on body but Engine and trans rebuilt with less then 1000 miles~ Lots of other new parts. Owner spends most of his time in Switzerland and is only here about 4 times a year, 1 week at a time, and lives in downtown Atlanta so it really needs a new owner who can drive it more.
Haggerty says average value is now $68,500~
https://www.hagerty.com/valuationtools/HVT/VehicleSearch/Report?vbe=43231

I don't want to side track my thread though so if anyone would like more information on it please PM me or email me at checkpointauto@outlook.com
Thanks
J

BoxsterLS376 04-25-2015 03:59 PM

E-Brake time!
 
Greetings all,

E-Brake time!! I've had a few questions about this and since I've got the motor out it is the best time to tackle this... probably should have done it with the coolant pipes out too but hind sight is 20/20 right?

So after getting the carpet and random wires out of the way up top I started by drilling some small pilot holes from the bottom to make sure I was where I needed to be and as you can see by the extra hold there I learned that is most certainly is double walled there and if you stray to far off to the side and drill a hole where you don't really want it :rolleyes:

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1430003994.jpg


So once I sorted out the alignment of the holes I needed to find a guide tube so that the cables don't get cut by the double wall steel. I didn't have a decent size piece of round steel but found a piece of square bar which is about 1/4" and really turned out to be perfect. I made them about 1" long but could be a bit smaller, I also took a drill and bored out the inside just a bit so that the ends of the e-brake lines would fit through them. That left a bit of a jagged edge on the "guide tubes" even after I filed them and although that part of the cable does have a protective rubber coating I figured it best to have an inner sleeve.

Well I decided that some of that awesome fuel line Porsche uses would do the trick to I snipped the tip off the fuel filter I'm about to throw away and used it to make to little inner sleeves! I snipped them up the sides so I could slip them around the cables then into the square guide tubes. I used some ultra grey silicon to hold things in place as well as patch up the small areas around the tubes on the bottom. I'll squirt a bit of grease in the tubes too to try and protect the cables as much as possible once I'm ready for final assembly~

So once all of that was established I gave it a quick test run to find that changing the mounting position of the e-brake holder definitely means you have to shorten the cables or else you just run out of pull! Even adjusting the e-brake all the way down up down only gives you so much space before you run out of clearance and simply can't pull the handle up anymore before it hits the frame of the e-brake handle holder.

I know I can just adjust the emergency brakes themselves but wanted to try and take some slack out of the cable too. Again not having the proper size steel tubing available at the moment, I improvised and decided to take a couple of 6mm nuts and grind them down until they would fit into the e-brake cable holder thingy. Then I simply got the cutting wheel out and made a slot in the side which I opened up just a bit with a flathead screwdriver and was able to slip it around the cable underneath the cable ends. Crimped is back down and voila, another few millimeters accounted for!

So with all that I was able to get the brake to pull hard enough to lock the drivers side wheel pretty good but no dice on the pass. side yet so I'll pull the wheels off next and see how much adjustment I can get back there. Hopefully enough to give me a bit more clearance between the cable holder and the e-brake handle itself.

Well that about wraps up today - spent about 3-4 hours doing this but will have to wrap it up this week as I'm going to Road Atlanta tomorrow to check out some vintage race cars at The Mitty!

So without further adieu here is todays video~ :cool:

https://youtu.be/gRCE0dcuOfg

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1430004208.jpg
http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1430004690.jpg
http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1430004735.jpg
http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1430004801.jpg

BoxsterLS376 04-25-2015 04:14 PM

More e-brake pics
 
So while I didn't mention anything in this video I did get a few more things done this week. I got the alternator and a/c compressor bolted to the motor and definitely need to do some figuring on that one once the motor is hanging again. Also got the cylinder head tapped for the Porsche coolant sensor - I'll go over that in the next video I do.

Here are a few more pictures of todays work:

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1430006507.jpg
http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1430006831.jpg

I love my goofy shirts too :) As if this project isn't enough proof that I refuse to grow up!

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1430006871.jpg

Just in case you missed it in the last post - here is a link to todays update:
https://youtu.be/gRCE0dcuOfg

THANKS!!!
J

BruceH 04-25-2015 06:16 PM

That saying has always been one of my favorites! Great work!

Lcrivers816 04-27-2015 07:05 AM

What you could possibly do is cut the cable end out throw it in a vice drill the hole out, open it up a little more on top, fray up the cable when it's through the cable end and solder the ish out of it (fray so it prevents it from ever going through). Maybe drill a hole on the side of the cable end before you run cable through and fill it with solder for a little more bite. I was reading into cable repair because I might have to make a custom throttle cable for my setup...

BoxsterLS376 04-27-2015 07:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BruceH (Post 446853)
That saying has always been one of my favorites! Great work!

Thank you Bruce!


Quote:

Originally Posted by Lcrivers816 (Post 447084)
What you could possibly do is cut the cable end out throw it in a vice drill the hole out, open it up a little more on top, fray up the cable when it's through the cable end and solder the ish out of it (fray so it prevents it from ever going through). Maybe drill a hole on the side of the cable end before you run cable through and fill it with solder for a little more bite. I was reading into cable repair because I might have to make a custom throttle cable for my setup...

If it comes down to it I'll actually shorten the cables, I would like to retain the factory ends without cutting the cable just for peace of mind. S far it looks like I should be able to get enough out of this setup if I adjust the rear brakes. I'll try and get that done today while the car is still on a lift and will let you all know how it turns out!

Thanks!
J

BoxsterLS376 05-03-2015 08:43 PM

Greetings everyone,

Been busy as crap lately but got a good bit done on the car this weekend - hopefully this thing will be running soon!

I should be in bed, ugh - here is the latest update - https://youtu.be/lL6UvzDYybk

Thanks!
J

Lcrivers816 05-04-2015 02:50 PM

Oh man you're so close! What did you end up doing for the spacers?

Ben006 05-04-2015 04:46 PM

good job :)

Ben

BoxsterLS376 05-05-2015 04:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lcrivers816 (Post 448066)
Oh man you're so close! What did you end up doing for the spacers?

Well still a lot of little details but definitely feeling like we are getting closer! Right now the spacers are out of it until I get the cradle bars in place, although the motor does lean forward a bit more then I would like, enough to see the front urethane motor mounts being pushed forward. I need to make sure everything clears but I may just add about a 1/4" of spacing back into the transmission mounts to level things out a bit.


Quote:

Originally Posted by Ben006 (Post 448085)
good job :)

Ben

Thanks Ben!

Lcrivers816 05-05-2015 04:28 AM

You got this man I'm jealous that you got a lift to work with :p I'll send you a PM to show you where I'm exterior wise on my build!

JRL 05-05-2015 05:09 AM

Good to see you turning the corner JJ - well done.

BoxsterLS376 05-11-2015 12:59 PM

Greetings everyone,

Well sorry to say no video from this weekend :( I got a good bit done but was slowed down by a few things, only one of which was the car... I forgot to put the aluminum braces back in after I had the front mount out... well as I was pulling it back out to put them in one of the bolts started to seize up halfway out which was no bueno~ especially since the front of the motor was just suspended from the pole jack. So right about that time a customer had problems and had to go rescue him... worked out that it was close to lunch at that point so played hero for a bit them got back to the shop and took about an hour to take my time getting the bolt out without doing too much damage then re-tapping everything.

So after that was sorted out began getting the cooling systems sorted out, getting water outlets and fitting attached, and test fitting hoses to see where I need bends and hard pipes etc. and see what else I need to order... Still need inline thermostat as well as a handful of other things, something like $800 worth if I get the fancy coolant - yikes! I haven't tallied up the cost in a while, started to this weekend but got scared and conveniently forgot about it :D

Anyhow was going to keep rolling on the bottom until I realized I left my new axles at home which really need to go in before the aluminum braces - DOH! I should be able to loosen them and drop them enough to slide the axles by but note to self, axles won't go in or out with aluminum braces in place. Check.

So with that and waiting for a tow truck to arrive I decided to work more on the top side and get the hand controls working. E-brake being the biggest holdup in the interior but all the hard work is done and think I've got it all sorted out now. I wasn't sure exactly how short I needed the cables to be so I wanted something I could reverse if it didn't work out so cutting the cables or trying to re-crimp with something permanent isn't a good option yet. I basically just expanded my original idea of shortening them with the 6mm nuts and made sleeves to pinch around the cable, turns out it was a good idea! After researching a bit online I found the easiest solution to be getting a multi pack of "Cable Stops" from O-Reilly Auto Parts for about $5 which I initially thought were going to be too small but worked out really well and actually used the second largest size in the pack in stead of the largest.

I'll post some pictures later but the cable stops are brass and about 3/4" long and in order to get it around the cable I just put the cable stop in a vice and cut a groove in it length wise. The size was perfect to crimp around the cable for a tight fit, I did leave the 6mm spacer in place as well so overall probably just an inch or total shortening and a bit of adjusting at the rear wheels and we have good lockup at 3-4 clicks with plenty of room to go without hitting anything below. YAY.
I did end up modifying the cable holder slightly by cutting a new groove for the cable so it can come out at a downward angle and more easily go through the tunnel too.

The shifter went in quickly and appears to be working properly, just need to secure the cables in place after I get to cooling system how I want it. I may also try and weld the factory mount back in to hold the cable in place on the firewall, but on the passenger side of the opening to the engine. That may wait until I decide how to make my firewall engine cover.

So pretty much all the interior modification are done with exception of making the firewall cover and connecting some wires up there! I've still got to put the center console and seats back in etc. but otherwise all is done there :)

So otherwise wanted to ask if anyone has used "Evans Coolant" before??

Renegade is using in their LS7 car they had displayed... after watching the video it definitely seems impressive and I do like the fact that it doesn't use water, to an extent. Just got to keep some with you or prepare to tow the car if you have a major leak.

The other major setback is cost of course, is it worth the $200-300~ for the 4-5+ gallons i'll need? Cheapest I've found it is Summit for $45/gallon but haven't contacted Evans directly yet.

Thanks!
J

JRL 05-11-2015 01:16 PM

Looks like the rich guys with super expensive cars use it so it must be good

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t7PykrgzWPQ

Smallblock454 05-12-2015 02:13 AM

http://986forum.com/forums/performance-technical-chat/56278-evans-coolant.html

BoxsterLS376 05-12-2015 12:18 PM

Hey if it's good enough for Jay Leno it's good enough for me right?!?! :)

Thanks for that link Smallblock454 - lots of good info in there! I guess for the time being I'm not gonna blow the money on that stuff. More then the money is just if there is a problem and dumps it all out, can't limp it home on water without contaminating the system so just seems like more of a hassle then just distilled water and good coolant...

Now the only question is which coolant to run?!?! I don't know any of the technical differences but each company has there own cool colors so whatever looks best in the expansion tank :p The pink Porsche/Audi stuff is nifty, but I do like the blue from BMW :)

Smallblock454 05-12-2015 01:02 PM

Hi,

i would go with a coolant fluid that is recommended for your Chevy engine.

I also wouldn't go with the evans fluid, because besides the water problem there are some problems when it comes to cooling high performance engines. That is why Jay doesn't use it in high performance cars. And the Boxster mid engine cooling situation for a LS3 is definitely not that good. Even if Renegade is using that coolant - which i think is just for marketing and not under technical aspects.

Regards Markus


All times are GMT -8. The time now is 11:08 PM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2024 Pelican Parts, LLC - Posts may be archived for display on the Pelican Parts Website