k&n Filter
 

My question is it true that these screw up your MAF ? I am in the market to buy one . Anyone give me the pros and cons

theres been lots of threads saying it does.i have one for about 5months and i have had no problem :) .

you bought it brand new? i can get one used for 15.00 .. you think i should go for it

Stick to the OEM paper filter. K & N filter cost me $240 for a new MAF.

i got my new for $35.00 on ebay.i wouldn't get a used.but yeah go for it :)

well there is not difference between the new one or used one. Cause once i get the cleaner kit it all the same.

Well the Box is not the only car that has had a MAF destroyed by the filter oil, but it's still a great filter just make sure it doesn't have excess oil. Blow it off before installing.

How do you know its a "great" filter? Compared to what? What perceived benefits do you believe you have achieved by adding this filter to your car?

Just curious... :cheers:

I've had a B&M filter which is basically an expensive K&N for the last 3 yrs with absolutley no issues.

Hey, I appreciate someone challenging 'opinion' based claims on the internet. I should have stated why. Here is why I made that statement. I elevate a couple of factors above others when considering a filter. For my performance vehicles flow rate is my number one consideration and as such gauze flows more than any other types. Whether you can utilize that difference in your particular setup is another matter. Most OEM intake setups will not benefit from changing from paper. Next is that I like my filters to be kept very clean, so paper filters I replace quite often where as the K&N I can wash and reuse and is more cost effective to me. Finally I like the build quality as many OEM types I've used have crushed and lost shape quickly. I'm sure it doesn't filter as well hence the requirement for oiling, but that doesn't play into my considerations.

Flow Tests

http://www.mkiv.com/techarticles/filters_test/2/

Hi,

You make many points, both pro and con, in the argument. The K&N and other gauze-type filters may supply more flow, but at the expense of more grit entering the engine (and consequently the Oil). If that doesn't matter to you (as it doesn't with a Race Engine), then further discussion is moot.

But, consider that in ISO 5011 tests - http://www.billswebspace.com/AirFilterTest.htm , the gauze-type filters, especially the K&N, repeatedly clogged in ⅓ the time of a conventional paper filter, negating any initial gains pretty quickly.

As you profess an obsession with keeping your filters clean, this wouldn't especially matter. But, for many who don't share this obsession, the gains experienced by a switch are very short-term, and will actually result in a negative sum gain through the service life of the filter. Also, realize and consider that the longer a filter is in service, the better it actually filters (but at the expense of increased restriction) as the already trapped particles restrict the size of the pores or openings even further.

But, for many, who are not concerned primarily with flow, nor obsessed by cleaning the filter continuously to insure this, the K&N and other gauze-type filters aren't a good thing. To say nothing of the expense of a shortened Oil Change interval, and potential premature MAF failure. Except for bragging at the Bar, I see little benefit, but lots of negatives.

K&N in particular uses the allure of Marketing and gains out of context to increase their sales. They're not really concerned about the negative effects it can have on you car longterm, nor do they tell the whole story. Similar to what STP did in the '60s and '70s.

If they were so great in a street application, why doesn't a single manufacturer offer them, even as an option where they could mark-up the hell out of the thing?

I do use a gauze-type filter on my Formula VEE for maximum flow (especially since the filter is only there just to keep rocks out of the intakes), since regular Oil changes and rebuilds are already part of the deal anyway. But, on my Street Cars, I stick with the OEM paper filters...

Happy Motoring!... Jim'99

What does re-oiling require? What exactly do you re-oil with? Thanks

You use this stuff to clean your filter then re-oil.

Doesn't seem too hard. Thanks :)

From my experience, I purchased a KN filter had it put in for about a day or two/ Then I started to search the post threads for KN filter. I didn't like what I was reading so the following day I took it off and replaced it with a original porsche part. Let me tell you I was able to sleep better at night. It's your call.....

More air flow, more dirt in the intake. If this is true, more dirt in the oil.

This dirt will actually show up in a used oil analysis. The recommendation when this happens? New oil filter.

To me, the K and N is an expensive gimmick.

To me!

After speaking to "mnboxster" and reading everal posts.. i have opted not to use the k&n filter i bought on ebay in fact I am trying to sell it to the second highest bidder with little lost out of my pocket . Thanks for the advice.

K&N was developed here in SOCAL back in the 70's primarily for offroad racing. They have now expanded into nearly every performance motor application. They are good guys. I have used their filters on racing motors since they first started out. They have been tested many times and found to let in both more air and more grit. If a $50,000 purse hangs on the winning car, K&N is my first choice. Will you ever feel the difference on the street or running Auto-X? Nope.

Porsche motors are expensive. I expect long life from my street car motor so I would not consider using a K&N on my Boxter. Every owner should decide for themselves with their eyes wide open.

I'll take your advice and just wait for a real intake for my car. I'm sure the difference is so minimal that it is negligible.

Filters
 

Me personally as a technican if anyone askes me questions like this i would respond.

A car company spends millions of dollar on research and development of this car OEM will be the best.


use oil air filters but don't over oil the filter, too much oil means your going to destroy your MAF. Its funny how many customer come in with Engine codes and destroyed MAF and car runs like crap because they over oil the filters ruin their MAF and the car is throwing codes.

Hey more $$$$ for the technicans =P

OEM is the best unless its a domestic car lol

Great discussion, but how do cold air intakes play in all of this. Don't they use gauze type filters with oil?

Thanks,