Lowered 986

[gabedrummin]

The front and rear of my 986 is lowered in the back it looks like I need shorter lower control arms (COFFIN ARMS) To correct the rear tire chamber The adjuster is maxed out .How can I fix this ? Is the only solution to raise the car ? Rear end is eating tires .Yes it has been aglined they said rear chamber is out of spec. How do you fix this ?

[Danimal]

I read somewhere that people used spacers to raise their car up a bit with lowering springs (at the shock mount it think).

Anyway, my car came lowered on HR springs with stock struts and it comply destroyed the struts with the compressed travel. I replaced them with a set of bilstein coilovers and have been enjoying them so far. However, if I did it over I might go with Feal coil overs or stock stuff bought through FCP euro with their lifetime warranty (I know pelican has something similar), but fcp made it clear that wear and tear it’s are fair game for replacement. Could be the last suspension parts you need to buy.

So if your struts are shot, consider just replacing everything. You can sort of check by pushing down on the corners of the car and seeing if you can rock the car. It was easy before changing mine out. Now I don’t feel much flex at all. Nice and solid.

Long ramble over

[Starter986]

Camber.

Camber.

[gabedrummin]

The car was lowered with adjustable coil over's . I like how the car sits .Tires do not rub . Do adjustable lower control arms allow for the arm length to be shortened ? I see they say you can widen the track of the car but the upper knuckle location is fixed by the coil over going thru it .So if the track is widened at the lower control arm point how do you correct "CAMBER " Really Dude that's not helping . Thanks for all your support.

[The Radium King]

are you sure it is camber that is destroying your tires? is the wear just on the inside of the tire, or all the way across?

camber should be relatively static with height change. it might go a bit more negative as you lower - strut at slight angle will pull top of wheel carrier in as you lower which will create negative camber and wear inside of tires. coffin arm as it rotates upward when lowering will will push bottom of wheel carrier out and create more negative camber which will wear inside of tires. but go low enough and coffin arms pass horizontal and start to pull bottom of wheel carrier in and reduce negative camber.

most people want more negative camber for better performance.

then there is toe. as you lower, oem toe control arms - which are not adjustable - will cause toe to go out of spec which will scrub your rear tires. standard practice is to get adjustable rear toe control arms so that toe can be put back in spec on a lowered car.

i'd be you money that your problem is toe and not camber.

[gabedrummin]

Its too much negative camber inside corner of both rear tires wear first. Thanks for the help

[Gilles]

Originally Posted by The Radium King

then there is toe. as you lower, oem toe control arms - which are not adjustable - will cause toe to go out of spec which will scrub your rear tires. standard practice is to get adjustable rear toe control arms so that toe can be put back in spec on a lowered car. i'd be you money that your problem is toe and not camber.

+ 1 on Radium comments..

When you lower your car, you need to use adjustable toe links as the OEM rear toe links does not have enough adjustment and that will chew the rear tires pretty quick

I installed a set of Rennline rear links on my 987 CS, and later move them to my 981 but the issue with those is that when they wear they start to rattle, and that was driving me nuts as the pavement on my association is not smooth.. so two weeks ago I replace them with a new set of Tarett's now no more rattle :-)

If the rattle does not bother you, you can have my old ones for $110 shipped, please let me know if you want a picture of them.

[The Radium King]

well, super cheap option is to slot the top of the strut tower and see if you can push the top of the struts out any further. you may encounter interference with the bodywork however.

many coilover kits come with adjustable camber plates at the top which would allow you to push the top of the struts out as well. there are also just aftermarket adjustable rear camber plates that you can get.

for the lower wishbone all you have stock for camber adjustment is the inner eccentric. however you can press out the inner bushing in the control arm and add an eccentric bushing (tarett sells them) but not certain how much clearance there would be for that much adjustment (they are designed to increase negative camber typically).

and if you are really lowered that much, camber adjustments may impact things like strut, parking brake, and wheel/tire clearances as well.

[Robert986]

Ensure that the LCA doesn't go past horizontal.

I second what the King said, you will need adjustable toe arms, oem just aint long enough. Excessive wear on the inside can be caused by bad toe settings.

[tcoradeschi]

Originally Posted by gabedrummin

Its too much negative camber inside corner of both rear tires wear first. Thanks for the help

How far out of spec is it?

[The Radium King]

yeah, i'd say that the wear is presenting on the inside due to the increased camber, but the root cause is still the out of spec toe. alignment numbers would help, and whether the op has adjustable toe control arms already.

[gabedrummin]

I replaced both axles and wheel bearings .Bearings are a pita ! waiting for the adjustable toe arms to come and we will have the alignment re-done .Thanks for all your help.

[ike84]

How low is your car? The fsm has specs for ride height minimum. My 01 is lowered to ROW minimum height on godspeed coilovers with no alignment issues and no need for adjustable lca's. If you go lower than factory specs you will have troubles (more than what new lca's will fix)

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