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Installing a 2.7l engine in a Boxster S of the same year...
If all goes well I will be buying a 2000 Boxster S with an engine problem. I have a spare 2.7 engine, also from a 2000, that I plan on installing, as long as there are no major complications. I see the 2.7 engine as a temporary solution, I want to test the 2.7 engine anyway. Once the 3.2 is out I can have a look at it to see if it can be repaired. Supposedly it has a failed IMS bearing, based on the fact that there is metal in the oil filter. If the 3.2 engine can be repaired it will go back into the car. If not I will sell off any useful parts and put them towards buying a used 3.2.
According to the article in the 101 projects book and on the Pelican site the 2.7 should be compatible, but a re-map of the DME would be needed. I assume that the transmission would bolt right on. Would the clutch be a problem? I will have both the 2.7 and 3.2 clutches available. Also, what exactly is involved in remapping the DME? Any help appreciated, thanks in advance. |
You actually will not need to remap the dme, so long as you keep the maf housing the same. The dme cares not the displacement, it just needs accurate measurements of air coming in, so that it can deliver the proper amt of fuel and then have it check out on the exhaust size. If you change your maf housing, however, you will need a new map. PIWIS II is what you'll need - I wrote up a diy on flashing procedure a few years ago.
I don't think that the 6 speed bolts to the 2.7. Someone check me on that, but I'm pretty sure the patterns are different. Sent from my SM-N976V using Tapatalk |
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One of the cars I bought was a 2000 S with a 2.5L (1997) installed with the 6-speed transmission. No issues with bolt pattern.
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I seem to remember that from a 6 speed conversion thread. I could definitely be wrong though.
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My 2.7 runs on a 3.4L tune at-17% long term fuel trim without issue and afr is spot on. I would assume that if all other components are left stock (intake and exhaust), a 2.7 would run around -15% on a 3.2 tune. Sent from my SM-N976V using Tapatalk |
It's only going to be spot on when cruising though in closed loop fueling. Once it enters open loop fueling it will ignore the oxygen sensor for the most part and run programmed values. The primary oxygen sensor is not a wideband sensor and is not used for full time close loop control as I understand it in this car.
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Thanks for the remarks... even though I don't really understand what all that means. What I take away from this is that the car will run well enough to test out the car and the engine, but will not be at its most efficient.
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The 3.2 engine and 6 speed transmission are now out of the car. When installing the 2.7 I am assuming that I can use the original 2,7 flywheel with the 3.2 clutch disk and pressure plate. Any other parts that must be switched?
The other difference I see is the backup light switch wiring. If I remember correctly on my base boxster the connector is different and I don't see the wire on my 2.7 engine so I suspect that it goes to the cars wiring harness not the engine's. |
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AFR gauges?.... Dyno runs? |
The 2.7l engine is ready to go into the car. Engine 2.7l, 6 speed gearbox and flywheel, clutch and pressure plate from a 3.2l. As others suggested there is no problem with the bolt pattern.
http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1666490795.jpg |
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The engine is in the car and it runs, although it is a bit rough. I am assuming that it will take awhile for the ECU to come to grips with the engine change. The more I drive it the better it runs.
So the answer to my original question is: yes the 2.7l engine can be installed without major problems. If the ECU is able to adapt to the engine the only other (minor) incompatibility is the backup light connection. I will continue to update my experience on the thread for the car at: http://986forum.com/forums/boxster-general-discussions/82558-bought-2000-boxster-s-project.html#post649383 |
Some tips at this point...
Let it even out the idle before you drive. It will take 60 seconds or so to adapt. This is important though because it tunes the base of your ltfts. When driving, go easy so that it stays in closed loop operations. This will fine tune your ltfts over about 50 miles of driving so that the dme can adjust to new maps. Don't push it into open loop until after your ltfts have settled out (somewhere around -15%). You really shouldn't have any rough running as you're gonna be rich if anything. If you haven't already, clean your MAF sensor really well. Btw, job well done [emoji106] Sent from my SM-N976V using Tapatalk |
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