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Old 09-01-2021, 12:07 AM   #10
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Join Date: May 2018
Location: Bay Area
Posts: 34
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by blue62 View Post
Your RKAT's as per post #3...... I read as a -1.4 and a .8

Coolant in the Cat's will destroy them rather quickly.
A plugged up cat could cause your issue.
So I will tell you how to test the cats for restrictions with the vacuum gauge.

AFTER YOU DO THE "IDLE" VACUUM TEST.

Take the RPM up to 2000-2500 hold it as steady as you can.
Hold that RPM for 1 and a half to two full minutes.
Watch the needle on the gauge if it slowly falls over time your cats are plugging up.


I forgot to mention:
Very important... make sure your A/C, heater, lights, radio are off when you do the tests.

you can use your Durametric to see if the Cats are "Catalyzing" (working) correctly by observing pre and post cats O2 sensor signals under the right conditions.

I can describe how to do that for you but lets see what the vacuum tests have to say first.

Make sure you hook the vacuum gauge up and run the tests the way I described, or the tests will be meaningless.
So I think it failed the vacuum test. I guess googling this test makes me think its a sticking valve and or bad valve guides... but maybe It would be best for you to see the video. The needle starts out a little wobbly... then goes crazy flying back and forth from 22 to 16 in hg... eventually stabilizes. It seems to do it when the car is idling very low... at 680 per durametric, with a target idle at 680. One caveat though: I ended up tapping into the right behind the throttlebody where it branches off for the AOS and that fuel tank purge valve. I have never seen a fuel pressure regulator on my car so couldn't really tap there. Keep in mind mine is 2003 3-chain, doesn't show a regulator in the katalog.

I also did the vacuum test to see if the cat was the culprit... vacuum didn't seem to drop when holding 2k rpm. I also visually inspected the cat... with a little boroscope though. It looked fine.

Putting in a link to a video of the vacuum gauge. The needle starts freaking out at around 25 sec, but eventually calms down at around 3 minutes. Engine was warm already from previous running, but only on about 1 minute before i started the video.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jzao8NScuJE

I'm a little confused if this is a valve issue. I really hope it isn't. But I roughly felt each valve as I installed... clearances felt consistently good at install. Unless this is an issue with the intake valves, but those appeared to never have been bent and just seemed to be 100%

I'm actually a little familiar with verifying cat function. I would typically look for the post-cat O2s to see if the wave function flat-lines after the cats get to temp and I'm cruising. Right now I'm using my desktop for durametric though lol. I'll have to devise a way to check the sensor reading while the car is moving. The exhaust smells pretty bad btw. Makes me think cats aren't doing so hot, but also makes me think maybe the injectors.

I replaced the ignition coils... and as expected... that was a waste. Car runs exactly the same. Maybe fuel injectors?
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