change oil engine
 

whats the best oil engine for 1999 boxter 2.5?i live in hot weather

Not as hot as PH but I live California (U.S.) and my mechanic uses Motul 5W40 https://www.motul.com/ca/en-US/products/8100-x-cess-5w40 - He recommended I change to Motul 5W40 over 0W40 Mobil 1.

Oh Boy! Another oil thread ........

Probably next will be another IMSB thread

Yep! A lot of new people I assume don't utilize the search function but...

Often! P-Cars really like frequent oil changes: I change at 4k max and have switched over to a 5w-40 Motul from the stock mobil one 0w-40 living in sunny California.

Also inspect your filter every-time and open up all the pleats! I switched over the LN Engineering filter adapter and run a filter mag for extra insurance and cut open the oil filter every-time to search for the whisker shavings.

I track and change oil often. I believe if you do some research you'll find Mobil changed there formula of the oil in the last 10 year due to federal guidelines on emissions. It is designed more for the newer models. Motul although more expensive is a better formula. and then there is always the Gibbs DT40. both are 5-40 blends.

Not to hijack the thread, but I've been reading from a lot of people that use 5w-40, but nowhere in the manual does it specify 5w-40. Maybe 5w-30 for lower temps, but everything else is 10, 15, or 20 and W-30, 40 or 50.

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1589233256.jpg

I've been using Mobil1 10w40 full synthetic, because I'll never drive it when temps are below 14F, I may sometimes drive it when it's below 50, and most often drive it when it's above 50F.

Could someone explain the thought behind using 5w-40 when it's not spec'd in the manual? Obviously since so many people are using it, there must be some reason that I'm missing. School me, please! :cheers:

Whatever 10W-40 fully synthetic oil you can easily get in Mindanao.

Yes your right. I guess My Oil preference comes from LN recommendation for the block update they do with nickies. Mobil may not make those blends any longer. except the extra mileage formula.

Thank you. It makes sense that you'd go with whatever the builder recommends.

"nickies" is that short for nickle rod bearings?

Nickel silicon carbide plated cylinder. Because boring out the cylinders would reduce the thickness too much their process is to cut the cylinders down to the base of the water jacket and install new aluminum cylinders coated with a nick-a-sil plating ie nickies. Someone else may have a better description of their process but this was my observation.

https://photos.smugmug.com/Engine-re...aef844ea-L.jpg
https://photos.smugmug.com/Engine-re...9008adc4-L.jpg
This is the original cylinder this one was on the verge of a de-chunck.
https://photos.smugmug.com/Engine-re...0b970d06-L.jpg

How did you come to discover the damage ?

You may remember I started with a base. So to do the upgrade I bought a flood salvage 2004 3.2 dirt cheap no compression on 3 cylinders. taking it apart found this bottoms of all the cylinders were water damaged (corroded).

I have read many oil debates, but one of the issues these cars struggle with is the oil temperatures. This article is a little old, but makes enough sense to me. If money is no object, one of the good ester based oils like Motul 300v in the cans, or redline are top pics. I plan on switching to 300v after using Motul 8100 excess and dt40, and will monitor oil analysis.


http://www.w124performance.com/docs/general/RedLine/Why_Red_Line_10W-40_thread_notes.txt


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