Need some more ideas
 

Yesterday morning MY 2001 986S key wouldn’t unlock the doors. Figuring it was just the alarm system I went through the normal double unlock etc. The symptoms are : key locks and unlocks Only the driver door, not passenger, console button does not flash or light when depressed. The console lock button does nothing. No LED no noise no nothing. Unable to lock the passenger door at all.

The rear trunk only opens using the switch in the door jamb if the ignition is on. The frunk will not open at all. The key(S) will not operate the locks, the frunk, or the trunk. There are no blown fuses anywhere. I cannot open the frunk by applying 12v to the pull out spot in the fuse panel. I can’t get to the battery but have connected a separate 12v supply to the car using the cigarette lighter receptacle and it made no difference. My primary key starts the car but no remote functions work. New battery installed in key, no change. My second key opens the door turns on the ignition but will not start the car. This one has me flummoxed. No idea why it won’t start. The led on key flashes normally. The other really strange symptom is having to turn on the ignition to open the rear trunk, but the same operation does not open the frunk. As you know it is not normally required for ignition to be on to open either trunk. I’m thinking maybe the ignition switch but the back part is less than a year or two old as It was replaced due to some electrical issues previously.

The ignition switch may be worn out but it appears to operate everything normally other than the central locking. Also the alarm makes no sounds if I leave the console or the trunk open when locking with the key. I didn’t expect it to since nothing related to central locking works. One other thing when I lock using the key it does not lock the fuel door, also I didn’t expect it to given the other symptoms. Everything was fine when I parked it last night. Less than 12 hours sitting.

Ignition? Controller? Which one? Can I test the locks using Durametric user software? Where would you start?


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Which brand ignition switch did you install?

Got it from the dealer


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That's good. So, OEM. However, that doesn't mean that it's not buggy.

Likely later today the pros will post their opinions. You've given them plenty to run with, details, so you'll get it ironed out.

:cheers:

I'd suggest pinging a couple of the real gurus on here. Look for Member Particlewave, who I think holds the title of electronics grand-poobah. RadiumKing, 78f350, some of these guys are also very, very knowledgeable on these electronics systems.

I'm afraid I haven't broken them yet, so I don't know enough about them. :D

I resolved the second key issue. Now both keys act in the same manner as described above. The little cylindrical ID part inside the key was missing. Amazingly enough I found it in a Baggie where i had replaced the plastic part of the key a couple of years ago. I had not used the key since and had put all the old parts in a junk drawer. I knew my proclivity for never throwing anything away with a Porsche name attached would eventually pay off. I’ve owned this Boxster for 12 years and had very little trouble with it. It does have one of the original Raby 3.6 performer engines and has been super reliable. Hope some of you electrical geniuses chime in. For now I’m driving my 996 as I hate having to park with one door unlocked.


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I suppose that was too much information.


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Never too much information. In my head I've swimming a plethora of bits and pieces of great information gleaned from these pages... often reading posts completely disassociated with anything with which my car is challenged. There have been a few occasions when I did face a challenge I was "reminded" of what I read here... and went in for the correction... the fix.

So, continue sharing. :cheers:

Start by checking for alarm system codes.

Also check to see if the immobilizer got wet.

You mentioned previous electrical issues, what were they?

Had no codes but it turns out that the controller under drivers seat did get wet. It was outside the last few weeks for the first time ever. Controller shot. Too corroded for any repair. One thing I found out. The frunk did open once I got the battery voltage above 12.3. The rear trunk would open under 12v. Placing voltage on the pull out connection in fuse box or via the cigarette did not work. Only when battery was charged above 12.3 via the cigarette lighter. The Car wouldn’t start regardless since the immobilizer prevented starting and couldn’t be bypassed, as far as I know anyway. If it can be I would sure like to find out for future reference.


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