What should I do next?
 

Hi Boxster folks,

I got my very first service engine soon light today. I've had the porsche since June. It's a '98 with 90,000 kms.

Is there any tricks to getting the codes from the car without finding someone to read codes?

I'm sweating it here in Windsor.

I would get the codes read. Too expensive if you cheap out and get it wrong.

Good luck!

Will any OBD reader do or does it require a specific Porsche code reader. The local Canadian Tire is selling a reader that is says is good for any vehicle 1996 or newer. It's only $99.00.

What do you think about that?

If you PM PorscheDoc he will know for sure. Or try a search here for a thread or two.

In theory, any obd 2 reader should get the codes. Figuring out what the codes mean is another story I believe.

Good luck.

Hi,

Here in the States, an AutoZone store will lend you a code reader. I don't know if you have AutoZones north of the border, but try calling several stores, preferably large chains such as Auto Parts Plus, Chieftain Auto Parts, Precision Auto Parts, Sutherland Automotive, or UAP Inc.

If no-joy, stop into any Service Center and see if they'll pull the codes (4-digit) for you. Once you have the numbers, post them here and I'll translate them for you. Hope this helps...

Happy Motoring!... Jim'99

I bought the code reader. hopefully I can read the codes tonight.

I'll post what I get when I get them.

Thanks

Let's have a guessing contest as to what it is given what we know... 98 with 90Kms...

I say MAF or 02 Sensors!

Doubting the MAF. Performance is still very good. Maybe....better????

Could not join the reader to the OBDII port in the car. Very strange!

I'm no p-car expert....
 

...and that's why i take my car to the dealership...but i've heard that the motronic system is fairly sophisticated and that there are many "layers" (for lack of a better term) that the deraler boxes can read and interpret that the handhelds cannot...in other word...you may get emissions system reading from your handheld where a dealer box might tellyou exactly where to go within that system...

...for $100 bucks, you didn't waste your money, at the very least, you have the direction of the fault when you walk into your dealer...

...goodluck on the magnitude!

Cheers,

--troy

Got the codes!!! Can someone interpret for me???
 

Well I guess I was being too gentle with the plug in. Forced it in and viola. Codes were there to be read.
So the codes I got are.

P 1130
P 1128
P 0446
The first two are Porsche specific. The third has something to do with emmissions I think.

Any and all help is appreciated.

Thanks

Hi,

Here you go...

• P1130 - Oxygen sensing adaptation, idle range, Cyl. 4-6
  
  P1128 - Oxygen sensing adaptation, idle range, Cyl. 1-3
  
  P0446 - EVAP Cannister Shut-off Valve (function) - Sort to ground, blow lower limit, lean mixture threshold

I believe these still point to the MAF sensor. Could also be O² Sensors given the mileage. Hope this helps...

Happy Motoring!... Jim'99

Let's see what happens
 

Since I got the $99.00 code reader to work, I figured that I'll clear the codes and see what could come up again.

I revved and idled in the garage this afternoon and the codes did not come back.

Crossesd fingers and toes in Windsor.

Could you post the Canadian Tire part number for that code reader?

And if you have time, could you either describe it or better yet, post a picture of it?

Code Reader
 

I'm in Asia right now but I'll get the P/N and post a pic once i get back to Canada

Who ever is making book......
 

Someone suggested betting on cause of my problem.

After having cleared codes vehicle ran okay in the garage. Now the sad part.

I was on my way to work today and got the dreaed flashing SES light. Car sputtered and popped alot until it warmed up. After some temp gain the car ran rough but better.

Going to the garage on Wednesday.

Who is guessing what?

Tom :confused:

I had a similar problem about six months ago. When CEL came on I bought an OBDII reader and got the same codes. I first tried clearing the codes several times but every couple of hundred miles they came back. I replaced the MAF sensor and its been clear sailing ever sense. Hope your problem is as simple.

HI,

+1 on the MAF. Definitely the right symptoms. That's my diagnosis and I'm sticking with it... ;) Hope this helps...

Happy Motoring!... Jim'99

Agreed
 

I agree with Jim.

I'm going to clean the MAF sensor this weekend.

I read somewhere that if it truly is the MAF you can know for sure by disconnectinig the electrical and then seeing if the troubles go away.

Hoping for an easy fix here. Cleaned and improved would be the best.

Should i change the air filter also? Seems like an okay idea to me!

I'll let you know.

Tom

Which Torx head??
 

Hi again,

Anyone know which Torx Security head I'll need for the MAF sensor removal?

I think'it's a T20H.


That would be the male of female driver required?

Exact same thing happened to me...flashing cel, popping noises,misfiring. Only when cold outside...the MAF was the culprit. Of course after the maf was replaced each O2 sensor crapped out...one a month until all were replaced.

Mafs are sensitive...by cleaning it you are most likely putting off the inevetible. Your gonna need a new one sooner than later. The last thing you need is to be stranded on the road when the newly cleaned maf craps out again. Remember...when the cel is flashing you must TURN OFF THE CAR IMMEDIATELY. Damage will occur to the emissions system and the cost to fix damaged emissions parts is unreal. :cheers:

Hi,

Yes, it's a T-20 anti-tamper. The Torque value is 2-3 Nm (2-3 Ft. Lbs.) so go easy when reinstalling it.

Try cleaning it, this works if the MAF is only dirty. They do fail though as well, so while you have it out, note the PN# on it in case you need to order one in the future. There were several variations, so you need to know the one your car has.

Also, should the car ever fail on the road, and you suspect the MAF, just disconnect the electrical connector to it. This will cause a CEL (if you don't already have one), but the DME will go into 'Open Loop' and select a default MAP. Performance and mileage will suffer, but it will get you home w/o damaging the engine or emissions gear, service it ASAP. Hope this helps...

Happy Motoring!... Jim'99

why do so many people think clearing the codes is a fix? The car threw the codes for a reason :)

Hi,

You're kind of stating the obvious here, there is always a reason that a code is thrown (not that you can always find it or duplicate it).

But, those reasons can range from a worn or inoperative component, such as an Oil Separator, O² Sensor or MAF, a Tank of Bad Fuel, or even just a one-time glitch, such as when you need to reboot your PC. Almost any component using microprocessors (which is really all the DME is) can experience these.

Proper diagnosis of any problem should include resetting the DME. This eliminates the possibility that it may have been such a one-time glitch. If the CEL re-occurs, then you know to dig deeper, that the DME is probably not the culprit.

You decipher the code and move on to those components or conditions (such as possible bad gas, heavy rainfall, etc.) which could be related to that code and try to find that one (either by intuition, experience, component testing, or some combination of all three) which is the cause...

Happy Motoring!... Jim'99

You would think the computer would automatically go into "open loop mode" rather than flashing its cel and allowing you to do even more damage to your car if not careful.

Hi,

A failed MAF isn't going to damage the car/engine, just prevent it from running especially well.

The DME may already be in Open Loop depending upon what, if anything, the MAF is telling it. The signal may just be degraded (bad, but still functional), emulating the worst possible operating parameter, that is, at the extreme, but still functional. So the DME (possibly further confused by non-corroberating signals from other sensors like the O²s), selects the wrong MAP and the car runs like ********************. The DME doesn't know that the MAF has failed, conditions could be such that this is actually what the MAF is experiencing or sensing, that it's not lying if you will.

By pulling the connnector, the DME now knows that the MAF is offline and goes right into an Open Loop default MAP...

Happy Motoring!... Jim'99

Great explanation!!! I just find it funny that these computers know the signal coming from a sensor is bad, flashes the cel telling you not to drive the car, allows the car to run like ********************, yet isn't "smart" enough to bypass the failed sensor to allow a safe condition for driving. Manual intervention is needed. :cheers:

Clean MAF ... Wow!!!
 

I cleaned my MAF last weekend and what a difference in the car. I cannot get over how much better the car runs. Alot more acceleration gained from this simple procedure.

Also for those who care, I also fixed the soft top problems that I had posted. I had to do it myself after this nincompoop :matchup: that promised me the world and delivered me a steaming pile of ******************** totally destroyed my convertible top mechanisms. $450.00 was an expesive lesson.

I re-timed the arms using a level which was ideal. There is not even a creak during the top function now. I am amazed at what I learned about these tops. I really think that soft top mechanisms are a perfect DIY job.

Thanks everyone. This forum is fantastic.

:cheers:

Tom