cam locking problems
 

Hello-
Im trying to prep for ims change and lock everything down.
I have a 3 chain motor, and have the pin in the pulley at TDC. The cam locking tool on bank 1-3(serpentine belt side passenger)will not fit.
The tool only goes one way, i know.
I turned the crank another 360 degrees and still no fit with the pin locked in.
There is a small notch on the pulley that lines with a mark on the case, and i was making sure that was aligned as well. It seems to just not fit in the top cam slot. Yes, they both look vertical. It seems that i can get the locking tool in if the tdc pulley mark is some 10 degrees atdc, but then the punch wont fit i to the pulley lock. Im stumped.
Yes, the cam tool is part of the ln pro kit and is the long one.
2004 boxster s special edition

If my logic is sound, the tool should never fit if a cam was off by a tooth or more. The fact that i can get it to fit, but the tdc mark is a little clockwise (1/8 inch), and of course the locking pin wont sink into pulley

Try toRotate the engine 180, not 360, then see if the cam tools line up. The notch on the cam is not on the center line of the cam.

Will try, but won't be able to lock driveshaft pulley with the pin if at 180. I have pics here.
http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1544718750.jpg
http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1544718778.jpg
http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1544718790.jpg
http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1544718802.jpg

You are in the exact same boat that I was in last weekend...I fought with getting that cam lock tool in for about an hour (2004 Base). I had to just keep at it...rotating 360 degrees, then rotating again, etc. Each time slowly rotating until finally I got the cam tool in, with the pin in as well. It was very tight, just keep at it.

I had a feeling I just need to spend more time at it because It shouldn't be out of timing because I haven't done anything yet to screw it up !
All I have done so far is removed the exhaust, 6 speed transmission, clutch and flywheel.
I gave up last night as I needed to crash after some 30 minutes at it. Reaching up to that side is best accessed from under the car (bank 1 -3) , so its a back and forth from backseat (with wrench on the pulley bolt).
I was convinced last night that something was wrong, but you gave me hope.
Question, I have not emptied the engine oil yet, and the car has been sitting for 2 weeks as I worked on it slowly.
Does that matter ?

Not sure, but I did drain my oil before I started my project. Removed rear bumper, exhaust, transmission, clutch, flywheel. Now I have locked the cams and this weekend will pull the IMS (hopefully). Still have water pump/thermostat and short shifter sitting on the bench waiting their turn.

I'm not alone !
I take it you just just kept turning the pulley and pin-locking it tdc BEFORE you tried to install the cam lock (in-car side 1-3 bank) or what order worked for you eventually ?

Yes basically just kept turning the pulley, with trying to fit the cam lock and the pin at the same time. It really was a matter of micro-inches for everything to fall into place. It did take several tries though.

I should have been clear - rotate the pulley until you get the cams to rotate 180 degrees.


Look at this thread> http://986forum.com/forums/performance-technical-chat/51954-o-ring-replacement-ims-cover.html

Check the picture in post 21

Thanks.
I have them lined correctly, just need to wiggle the crank and get the cam lock tool in.
If i cant get the pin in the crank pulley hole, what about putting the flywheel back on and locking that ?
Just a backup plan

Thank you so much. What took you an hour took me 90 minutes.
That was not fun doing alone. I had to rotate crank in the backseat and then get under car and try to fit the cam lock over and over. There was almost no room to fit the lock from the backseat, so under car was easier. A small tap with a dead blow and it slid in. I then lined up tdc mark on pulley by 2 degrees and the pin slid in.
Thank you all.
I hope getting the transmission back in will be easier

Glad to hear it. You are in the same spot as me now. Time to take some deep breaths and pull the chain tensioners.....

I think I am going to use the 2nd Cam lock on the flywheel side.
I know the 2nd lock is for the 5 chain motor but I figure it can't hurt anything to put it on one of the two.
Thoughts?

I did. Belt and suspenders. I also removed and replaced all the chain tensioers. Cam plugs are cheap.

So you have bank 1 (cylinders 1-3) locked with the long cam lock and bank 2 (4-6) flywheel side locked with just the single ?
Thanks again for your help.

I just realized I referred to the "bamks" incorrectly in earlier posts.
Cams have 2 banks, 2 cams each.

I am planning on only removing tensioner bank 1 and the IMS tensioner.

I tried using the other cam lock (the single) on bank 2 but I couldn't get it to fit. I think on the LN instructions they say its not necessary, and if you did want to lock the second bank, you would need to make up a lock yourself.

Thanks.
I will try tonight and report.
I figure its worth a shot.
The more we can lock the better.
IMS will be saturday

+ 1 on locking the cams on both banks, it gives you an extra piece of mind.. :-)

Yes, but i have the ims pro tool, so that means a full lock on cylinder 1 to 4
The tool also comes equipped with 5 chain lock tool for use on flywheel side.
My plan is use the 5 chain lock on the flywheel side because i CAN.

I was able to use the single lock on the 4 -6 side as extra insurance.
Question, when i pulled 1 to 3 tensioner, it gave a little pop like it was under pressure when it came out. Again 1 to 3 is locked with the cam tool and one of the cams is also locked on the 4 to 6 side. The pin was in the pulley at tdc, so locked up.
Is that pop/pressure on removal normal? It has me worried

Can you take a pic for me at the single lock on bank 2? I'm curious as to how you got it in there.

Also: Yes I have heard that a pop is normal when you pull the 1-3 tensioner. Not sure if you have seen the videos by Burner's Cars on youtube but he goes through the whole IMS replacement procedure, from start to finish, and he mentions the "pop" as well.

Sure. That pop scared the hell out of me. I think i spent more time on the c clip removal than the lock on bank 2
Here are pics. Sure glad i had the second cam lock onhttp://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1544919851.jpg
http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1544919975.jpg

Thanks for the pic! I will crawl under mine tomorrow to make sure I can get that in there on bank 2.

The old l&N is finally out.
Looks like a gen 1 single. It has a little crunch when turning. Glad its out.
I noticed oil in the tube, but i think thats normal.
Im trying to get it all out before the new bearing, which is in freezer now, gets installed.
http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1544926262.jpg

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1544926381.jpg

I removed the oil with shop rags. I wanted to be sure that there was no metal bits in the oil. I cant recall with tool kit you have for the installation. Be sure to use a dead blow hammer if it is required. The installation of the new bearing properly was my biggest concern, followed by not dropping the circle clip into the engine case. I did not have the faultless install kit for use.

I would add a big thanks to Jake Raby and LN for developing and distributing the tools to do this repair.

Good news.
New ims is in, tensioners in.
Couple of items that might help you.
1. The tensioners are tough to get back in because of tension, imagine that. I had to press on with a large screwdriver while simultaneously threading until i could get it started. Torque to 59ft lbs each.
2 there is a real danger of the ims c clip flying into the engine case through the exposed lip. Mine squirted out several times. Invest in some decent c clip pliers. I fashioned a 2 inch copper pipe and sandwiched it against the IMS removal threaded tube. The diameter is greater than the gap between the c clip arms, so it is impossible to fly off. DONT just use the finger method. See picture here for example.(coming)
3. Once everything is buttoned up, rotate crank 720 degrees and check all 4 cam marks ( you should have marked them with a sharpee). Mine were dead on

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1544989562.jpg