WEVO Motor Mount Install
 

I just had a WEVO motor mount bushing installed and shocked on the increase in vibration and motor noise within the passenger compartment. Is this typical or should I be concerned with the install? Please let me know if you have had a similar experience or advice on moving forward. I have a HPDE event in two weeks and don't want to go if there could be a problem. Thanks for your help and advice.

the vibration should diminish a bit within a week or two of use, but at the end I ended going back to the stock mount

I run the wevo transmission mounts but with oem engine mount. I had one and sold it, and the buyer took it out after a short bit. I've heard that the wevo engine mount adds a fair amount of nvh.

I'm the one who bought it from Steveox and I didn't like it either. The vibration was just too weird feeling and sounding. I gave it to a spec boxster guy.

Plus...
 

...I bet your car is slower.

Seriously.

The extra vibes fool the knock sensor and your computer will pull out timing.

The Porsche engineers knew what they were doing.

Yeah the Wevo isn’t great for a driver. Race, or dedicated track car perhaps. I went with the 987 mount. No vibes, works great.

Thanks everyone, I'm regretfully going to change it out, dang!

Should have asked before I did this....

I run both the Wevo semi-solid engine and transmission mounts and yes, the increase in NVH is far too great for a street car.

I've never had the hard mounts fool the knock sensor. There were reports of this a long time ago and this legend continues to be repeated but as you can see from my recent dyno, my engine produces full power.

Rennline and function first make trans mounts as well..........not sure which one I am going with yet.....don't want any more NVH but need an improvement in shift quality


Rennline Tunable Semi-Solid Engine Mount (Pair)-Rennline, Inc.

FUNCTION-FIRST > Trans Mount Upgrade

The Function First version you can create yourself using your own standard mounts and some poly. I have these for effectively 200 less than their retail price.

https://i.imgur.com/H5EOa1u.jpg

The FF ones have the void around the stud filled. The other side is the hydraulic fluid. On old mounts you can move the stud by hand. For more firmness you can fill in both sides.

EDC what type of " poly " did you use ? Where did you purchase ? What brand or part number ? I think the idea is interesting and may want to try the home brew version . Thanks .

I was a second run guinea pig from a fellow owner on boxa.net Username is jimk04 and he posts here from time to time. From memory the poly is nothing special, 80 shore from memory. I didn't want a rock solid mount with loads of NVH and in discussion with Jim was concerned a harder shore and also both sides filled would be too much so I chose this option as a trial. They've been in since 2015/16 ish. I've always been one of the first to try Jim's stuff, underdrive pulley and metal shifter bearing inserts too. I did a brief write up on boxa.net

Have you upgraded your shifter to either a 987 or gt3 shifter? That can solve a good portion of shifting woes, cables might be dead too. Replacing the motor mount makes a ton of difference, and I have found the 987 mount to be just fine... I think any more solid mount will increase NVH to one degree or another...

For a fast road based car I've found a fresh 987 engine mount is just fine.

Yes front is now a 987 mount but the rears are stock and have never been changed. Do you have 987 rears as well. The cables seem fine but I suspect the routing is a little off such that too much pressure against the under side of the engine cover is set up in the cables. Are new spec cables an improvement over the old? My plan is to install a 987 cover to take some pressure of my cables.....

When things get hot 2 to 3 can become a crap shoot....very disconcerting when this happened on the track.

I may give the GT3 a try as it's longer throws and higher resolution might be a better fit for my old 6-speed.

Do you mean 987 engine cover? If so I don't think that will help. The cables run in a thick sheaf so you would have to be putting some serious pressure on them and on top of the plenums for them to snag. I think you would dislodge a plenum or create an airleak before the cables become stuck.

Yes....you could be right but I was not considering sheath collapsing onto cable persay.

I was considering or imagining compression of the cable run "arc" giving rise to restricted movement....IIRC cable operated fine when removed from the car.

The 987 with more clearance could eliminate this if it was a factor.

Any idea how the stock mounts work? Oil filled would seem pretty solid to me....although they would theoretically allow varying "home attitudes" as imparted by the engine trans assembly.

What degrades in the stock mount....if it is oil filled?

The fluid can leak. If you do it the above way it is a cheap mod to do. It's a shame to spend good money refreshing other suspension, balljoints and other rubber mount parts and not do these.