Spark plugs and tubes
 

I plan on changing out my plugs either today or tomorrow. I think I have a tube (or O ring) leaking on the passenger side. I bought all new tubes and O rings. Is it best to only replace the ones that are leaking or do them all while you're in there?
Mines an 02 S with 130k miles

If you bought all 6 and you are in there do them all. Getting them out of course is well documented but making sure they get seated is important or you will see leaking.

Thing about this car is the work and time it takes to get access to the areas you plan to work on. Jacking up, removing body panels, etc. So doing related jobs makes sense, unless you like jacking up the car, taking wheels off, removing, replacing body panels.

As mentioned, probably the most time consuming part is simply getting the car prepped. Overall, the plugs are pretty accessible and it's not too bad of a job. There are lot's of possible tube removal tool "hacks" out there. I will tell you, the marine/boat drain plug method did NOT work for me at all. I had to make the tool with a bolt and washers. Then a little pry and pop. Getting them back in required a small rubber mallet for a couple of light taps on a couple of them. One thing to keep in mind is the tubes can crack, and break apart, so be gentle when removing them.

Yea I bought the boat plug the other day to give it a try. If that doesn't work I'll make the bolt and washer. I'll go ahead and change all of them while I'm in there. Makes perfect sense.
Thank you for the quick replies

For me, the plug just wouldn’t grab the tube well enough as they are a bit slippery. Plus, the plug was difficult to get any decent leverage on. The bolt and washer was super simple and worked like a charm.

I've done this both ways..
Boat plug first time around...I had the car on the lift so everything was at a nice level for access and leverage. I was successful but it took a decent amount of effort as the plug wanted to pull out if it wasn't torqued down enough.

Last time I did this was last summer as I had a bit of a leak from one of the tubes. I didn't replace the tubes this time, just the O-rings. I decided to try the bolt/washer setup. First tube I tried I fought with a bit....almost like I was trying to make it too hard. After one popped out, the rest followed easily. Overall, I found the bolt/washer setup to be the easier of the two methods and will use it again next time I'm faced with this job.

Make sure your coil packs and electrical connectors are well seated upon reassembly. If possible, start your car before you button everything back up.

I used the boat plug thing and worked like a charm.

Pretty happy with what I've accomplished. Get new air filter, cleaned MAF, changed all spark plugs, all tubes and O rings, and installed new regeneration valve.

Car runs and idles like a champ, no "humming" noise coming from gas filler door areas anymore, and now starts perfectly after filling up.

Boat plug vs. bolt+washer.
Much depends how tight the seals are. You won't know that until you start the extraction process. Some my be much tighter than others.With a boat plug you may get some out,some not. You will get them all out with the bolt+washer.
There are some very detailed write ups listing the exact specs of bolt and washer to use.
Hint the leading washer needs to be as large as possible.I carefully filed down an oversize one using the new tubes as a go/no-go gauge.
The technique is to use leverage not brute force.You do not want to shatter a tube or break anything!

All of mine popped out very easy. So I guess I was lucky

They may have been changed before. Mine were a pain first time (with plug) at about 85K miles. Last year, I had a couple of O-rings that had started to leak. I used the bolt with washer and they all popped right out. The pug may have been easier this time around as well but I just didn't go that route.

i used a piece of rubber hose (fuel line?) i already had that was about the size of the tube & i placed a socket in it. Once done it worked like the boat plug.