Thanks Mike!

This may sound corny but a Xbox ONE with Forza 6 or 7 and a good steering wheel-pedal controller. Don't use the joy stick.

I think if you do some math 125# is equal to a 10hp change in power/weight ratio.
3150/255=12.35 stock

3025/255=11.86 -125#
3150/265=11.88 +10HP

2925/255=11.47 -225#
3150/275=11.45 +20HP

I have a observation on the Road & Race vids. The stock car makes 260hp but that is at the flywheel. So the number on the RR would be lower (drivetrain loses maybe making 235hp). So if the car now makes 285 on the RR arent the mods worth more like 50 hp? and 285 at the wheels is more than a 3.4 carrera maybe even a 3.6 carrera. Or do I just not have it incorrect.

The Road and Race poster was mainly on boxa.net and gathered a lot of info from users there doing the tried and tested mods. But to answer your question no. You won't get +50bhp whether at the wheels or at the flywheel with those mods. I did them all and put the car on the same dyno at each stage and posted the graph with each mod stage over layed including a baseline run. You'll note the Road and Race vids "layer" up the mods and power on an assumed 260bhp start point. I have seen standard cars run anything up to 35bhp different to each other depending on their maintenance.

I get that. But where does the 260 HP number come from? I don't think any 986 makes 260 at the flywheel. So if the RR says 285 at the wheels....that is well over 320 at the flywheel. Not possible.

In the UK the facelift 986 S is rated at 260, Anniversary 266, early S 252. It might be bhp or PS but the figures are all still the same.

The RR is not showing 285 at the wheels. Charlie who operates that dyno is round the corner from me and one been using him for a good few years. The 285 is the corrected flywheel figure. He does also provide the wheels figure and the AFR plot. But as he will tell you most people want the fly figure as its good pub talk. I only managed to get from him an overlay of my flywheel figures and I know all my at wheels data is still in his system but I never got the time to ask him to pull all those different runs for at wheels onto one graph.

Thanks sooo much...I thought I was loosing my mind.

There's still more power to be had. In those R&R videos they still have all the cats and are using the 986 MAF and tunes. I think 300+hp is achievable with decats and the larger MAF+Carrera tune.

The UK cars only have 1 pair of cats at the rear where you call the mid pipes. The 987 3.2 puts out 276PS or maybe 280 bhp. A couple of guys have dyno'd mods for this and not quite cracked 300 but I guess if you started with an already strong engine and high baseline then you can.

Yes and those weight loss numbers look even better when you realize that 20hp improves straight line acceleration only. Weight loss improves acceleration, braking distance and cornering speed. Back-of-the-napkin 986 performance improvements look something like this on a typical 2 minute race track:

Add 20hp, cost: $3000, shave 2/10s of a second/lap
Remove 200#, cost: zero, shave 2 seconds/lap.
Upgrade suspension and run R-Comp tires, cost: $5000, shave 5 seconds/lap

Some mods deliver a lot more measurable bang for the $$ so spend your long winter tinkering wisely.

Is your deep sump baffled? Better not to starve bearings with slicks on high speed turns.

I have been very fortunate regarding oil starvation. My 986 was set up for BSX class with *moderate* R-comp tires and logged over 100 track days including 20 at AAA Speedway which is notorious for killing 986 motors. We added the X51 pan and checked/topped the oil before every run session. Zero oiling issues even while posting top times.

My current car is a 987.2 with 4 scavenge pumps and a vastly improved oiling system. Zero oiling issues after 2.5 years and 40 track days. So far, so good.

:cheers:

So, what's the best way to spend $1,000 (CDN?) lightening a Boxster?
Woody's build thread has some great weight loss info.
I'm guessing that seats and wheels are a good place to spend the money if you still have stock equipment.
-CF trunk and frunk.
-Remove the soft top? Make the soft top manual by removing the motor & transmissions?
-AC compressor, lines, and condensers?
-A couple pounds by removing the spoiler mechanism and fix it in the up position.
-Liners, carpet, and padding. Is it negligible weight loss vs loss of comfort?
...what next?

How far do you want to take your car? Wheels, stock interior, and top are the low hanging fruit and make a noticeable difference. The SPBOX guys have this down to a science regularly pulling 400 lbs off the car (which transforms it's performance). Then they put 50 lbs back in with a full cage. Tom Stone and Brad Roberts both have build threads detailing weight loss for winning 986 cars.

The 986 weight loss king was a manic AX guy from SFO (Grant) who got the dry weight down to around 2000lbs. That car also had 285 slicks all around and dominated the AX circuit for a while. I think it is in Texas now.

Weight loss works and costs very little to do. :)

The bast bang for the buck on the Boxster is remove as much weight as possible. Full exhaust headers etc (if legal) 36-40 lbs, AC? ditch it if you can, spare tire? gone... track days any way. Stock seats... gone. How many creature comforts do you need on the street? Weigh that into the equation. Lightweight wheels are a good $$ too. But, as others have said, skill is the best equalizer. Most of the top end/intake motor mods make more noise than anything else IMO.

Another CRAZY heavy item is the stock steering wheel! OMG that thing is a boat anchor! You loose your airbag, but some things are a trade off. Most of the cars I've owned over the years never had airbags...

This is the best bolt in! http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1514074209.jpg