Dreaded SAI/Evap monitors Not ready and P0442
 

Secondary Air Injector/ Evaporation System Not Ready/ Not complete
I'm in that chasing my tail situation because I failed inspection.
I have done the internet searches and tried portions of the regiment cold drive cycles some suggest for the last couple of weeks. I've done a few 2-3 hour trips all with no luck.
I did do a code (P0442) clear about 3 months back on an 1800+ mile road trip through the smokey mountains.
I get a P0442 very randomly, maybe 1-2 times a year and I have always attributed to a
lose gas cap sometime after refueling. I replaced the cap about 3 years ago due to a broken Lanyard.
I'm starting to think that the random P0442 code maybe indicating that when the monitor finally sets, the code pops because of an issue with the evap. canister system
How do I test the evap system?
I now only have the month of October with my rejected inspection
Thanks for any help
I know Jeff in PA has weighed in on this on other forums

I wouldn't have believed it but a poster on another forum mentioned running the engine at about 2700 rpm during the cold start for the entire 90 min SAI cycle. It was my last ditch effort as I ran out of things to try after 500 mi of driving. I actually saw it go ready on my HF scanner while sitting in my garage. Tried drive cycles but you can't get it perfect with traffic.

Is that 90 mins or 90 seconds for sai cycle

SAI cycle is typically only 90 sec, not 90 min. It runs at cold engine start to reduce emissions by injecting additional air into the exhaust to help get the catalytic convertor material up to working temperature faster.

My bad SAI =90sec. Please let us know if this works cause many have said the drive cycle has to be completed. I saw it with my own eyes sitting still parked in my garage. Until that moment I had driven more than 500 mi on each of two resets to no avail.

It seems likely that this is a component failure issue from the symptoms.
So either vacuum leak or an electrical component failure or a system plug/disconnect.
1.Does the SAI Pump run from cold start? It also runs while the engine is warm sometimes as a self-test.
2. Smoke test or other for vacuum leak - jut hook up Mighty vac and see if the sytem holds a vacuum?
3. There is a small orifice tht the SAI system uses that gets plugged with carbon deposits -Search- clean it out.
All simple but tedious stuff to do.
After that it gets much worse !

My SAI Pump works correctly, in that it runs for the aprrox 90 secs
I'm thinking something in the evap system may not be getting triggered and that is preventing the SAI monitor to complete

If you think it is just the Evap system, this may help
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_HwF7t3MUnU

I had a similar problem and it was a leaking vacuum canister/reservoir and a check valve that fell out of the manifold. you need in the area of 18" Hg in the system for the SAI to work properly.

Make sure you have no vacuum leaks.

Use a vacuum gauge to see what you have.

see: http://986forum.com/forums/performance-technical-chat/69093-secondary-air-pump-check-valve-question.html

What is he talking about? Maybe he could show us in the engine compartment what he is doing?

I had to replace the battery several mo back and I just realized yesterday that when I put the scanner to it just to check for any codes that SAI was not ready again. So again this morning I did the rev @2700 rpm during a cold start and again it went ready 8/8 while parked. Just wanted to let you all know it wasn't a fluke. I must have put about 2K miles since that battery replacement.

I battled long and hard with SAI issues. I did lots of research and checked/upgraded lots of parts. My conclusion was that:
first you need to do a thorough diagnosis.That is awful because it is so tedious but do it anyway because if you miss one leak all your work is wasted.
Second , do everything because access is so awful - how many times do you want to remove the alternator and maybe the Intake manifold?
Third, upgrade to silicone and brass.The cost is trivial and it will never fail.
Invest in a smoke machine or at least a Mighty Vac to test your work. Become a Master at using both otherwise you will be down the same rabbit hole endlessly.
Rebuild the SAI pump
Clean out the ports for the SAI system in the cylinder head.If they are plugged with carbon, no amount of other work and expense will be effective.

Gelbster:
What issues were you facing?
Did you have CELs?
What remedy finally corrected it?
I have no CELs (Other than the super random P0442) so have Zero direction in terms of failed parts. I have read that slow worn Post O2 sensors could cause the SAI not to complete it's cycle. I have seen from my Phone app that (1) of the Post O2 sensors seems to come up much slower than the other as far a measuring voltages in a similar range and behavior.
I took the Plenum tubes and TB off the other night and I can see much more needs to come out to really do any investigation. I'm thinking I need additional diagnostic equipment as well. I don't want to get into parts throwing
So I'm starting to lean towards taking it to a shop, my first time.

Diagnosing, testing and general poking around is the best .Did you read the Posts by Jamessp ?
If the O2 sensors are all the same age - replace all imho. Not cheap - but your time and sanity.Don't replace just 1.
The Mighty Vac tests are an easy and non-intrusive way to start diagnosing.
Mentally prepare for removing the alternator.Start by trying to loosen 'that' bolt.I did it all w/o removing the inlet manifold but you need to be a contortionist with perfect tools and lots of patience.

I had the same problem and it turned out to be a huge vacuum leak.

the Vacuum reservoir failed on my 2003. I also had the check valve that inserts in the manifold to source the vacuum fall out.

So I had very little vacuum to run the SAI system and the other items actuated by this vacuum system.

Get a vacuum gauge. HARBOR FREIGHT $20 https://www.harborfreight.com/fuel-pump-and-vacuum-tester-62637.html . Insert it into the system with a "T" connector and see if you are getting 15 to 20 " Hg reading. I was getting close to nothing in vacuum.


Next test the reservoir. Hook a hand vacuum pump with gauge directly to the reservoir. https://www.harborfreight.com/brake-bleeder-and-vacuum-pump-kit-69328.html with a plastic line.

See if it will hold vacuum. If not replace the reservoir......they cost about $20.00. The reservoir is made in 2 pieces and glues together. It is a common failure that it becomes unglued. Mine would hold no vacuum. You do not have to un-mount it to test it. Use long needle nose pliers to remove the rubber fitting and attach a hose from the tester.

Look at all the vacuum lines. The lines are plastic with rubber connection pieces. the rubber ages and cracks. I have replaced as much of the Porsche vacuum lines as I can reach with 4mm high temperature silicon hose.

I used a barbed brass fitting to fit the check valve to the manifold. I attached a piece of silicon tubing to this and fitted it to the check valve



There are several good vacuum posts on this site.

This is what the brass connection to the manifold with check valve looks like. The barbed brass fitting into the manifold can just barely bee seen under the top hose.


http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1507581823.jpg

Did you guys have CEL codes?
Or
You went to inspection and Oh Oh 'Not Ready'
Seems with such a large vacuum leak you would get a Code
I have cat delete pipes. Could that cause a difference in the monitors setting? They are after the O2 post cat sensors but!!!

Cat Delete pipes can cause many codes and fuel trim problems.Suggest you research using antifoulers/extenders or some other hack to keep the DME 'happy'
IN ca your changes would cause you $$$$$ or problems at Smog Test time.Be careful

I have a Durametric so I can just use that to see if the monitors are ready. It has a READY menu and it shows the status of the five monitors.pass.....or fail.

Update to this long story.
After removing Plenum tubes to see if there was something obvious, it became apparent this was going to be a lot of removing, buying more diagnostic equipment, swapping parts and weeks of frustration.
So I found a local inde shop. They found that the evap canister, purge and vent value were faulty.
They were also able to see my old P0442 code.
Driving home the Evap monitor set to complete but the SAI still did not. The shop indicated that in NJ like CA the car can still pass with 1 still not complete. So I took a chance went straight to the inspections station and YES passed. I actually threw my hands in the air and yelled YES in the inspection station.
I would probably still be throwing parts at it now if I was trying to diagnose. I also know now to watch these monitors way before inspection.
Still unclear as to the sequence SAI first or Evap first or maybe independent. I still need some more cold starts to see if the SAI sets
2 years until the next inspection