Weight loss- what am I missing?
 

here's what I've done so far, do you guys see anything I've missed? Is there anything under the dash, or in the engine compartment? (I want to keep the ac, radio, and rad fans)

Removed
-carpet (all of it)
-top motors and trans
-insulation around motor
-door speakers
-airbags
-factory belts
-rear bumper
-spoiler assembly
-wheel wells
-exhaust heat insulation

Installed
-light weight wheels
-racing steering wheel
-GT3 seats
-lightweight battery
-fiberglass hood
-lexan trunk
-stainless exhaust

Have you done frunk/trunk plastics & trim?
SAI is a few pounds.
Evap canister is heavy, though the weight is in a good spot for overall balance.

remove:

front bumper
door panels
windshield wiper (keep one)
secondary air injection
charcoal cannister
dash bar

install:

987 engine cover
coilovers
manual steering rack
two-piece rotors

Isn't the spoiler supposed to kill lift and add stability at higher speed?
or are you planning to replace the OEM with a fixed FG spoiler?

Pin the rear spoiler in the up position but remove the lifting mechanism, motor, and wiring
Replace stock muffler with catback
Replace cat's with test pipes
Remove door windows
Remove door motors and mechanism
Remove door panels
Remove inside door handles and replace with cable pulls
Remove excess wiring that is no longer needed
Remove front and rear bumpers
Remove the rad fans (only needed if you sit in traffic for a long time on a hot day)
Lexan windshield
With no door windows, there is no need for climate control (ac compressor, lines, condensors, heater, ducting, etc)
With no door windows and the catback with test pipes, you can't hear the radio, so remove the head unit, the amp in the trunk, the dash speakers, and all of the wiring
Remove the brake shields behind the hubs
Remove the brake pad springs
Install aero latches for the front and rear trunk and remove the factory latches, cables, and hardware
Remove the passenger seat and belts
Remove the windshield wipers, mechanism, motor, and wiring
With no windshield wipers, no need for the sprayer so remove the windshield spray nozzles, tubing, pump, water reservoir (which might have 5-8 lbs of water in it), and all of the wiring
Install minimum sized AGM or LiIon battery and aluminum battery hold down (your lightweight battery is still probably too large and heavier than needed)

Let me know when you need more...

Hey TRK, can you upate your manual rack thread with your current set-up and how it feels on the track/road? My project car has a leaking rack and I'm looking for options other than a direct replacement.
The Radium King's Manual Rack Thread

meh. i have both a manual rack and an electric setup. haven't decided which to install yet. was building a race car so was going to put the electric in the race car and manual in the street car. now race car plans are on hold, so not sure what i am going to install yet. spoke w a few folks who have proper depowered racks (some on this forum if you can lure them out) and say it is fine fine fine except can get a bit tiring after an extended track session, and with no buffering from the fluid, etc., can bite you in an off. sorry for the hijack.

Fantastic! He car is still driven on the street occasionally so a lot this I can't do but there are definitely some new ones here. The charcoal canister is definitely going to go, I've actually already removed the air pump. I'll remove one of the fans too and try it out. How much does the dash bar weigh? I'm assuming that's an angle grinder job

And to answer the question. I'm running a lexan spoiler in place of the factory one I removed
http://i566.photobucket.com/albums/s...psgb0bkxmj.jpg

dash bar bolts in; remove the bracket that the air bag control module mounts to while at it.

and yes, with no dash bar or air bags you will surely die; rip.

ps, get rid of the trim on your roll bar. replace the hood crest w a decal. fiberglass side mirrors, fiberglass tonneau cover.

so, i'm working on a 'thing'. i have a friend who is good with fiberglass who is bonding a set of speedster humps to a tonneau cover (the metal lid that covers the roof). when done he is going to take a mold and be able to make a lightweight one-piece panel that replaces the metal tonneau cover and covers the rear area behind the seat to provide better aero. it will mount at the spinlock locations (and perhaps a latch just in front of the third brake light if i get around to it).

you won't be able to use the standard convertible top with it. if you want light, remove the top - 6 bolts gets you 50 pounds - run with the speedster setup at the track (factory aero so no point issues) reinstall roof and cover for taking GF to dinner.

thinking i will fabricate a speedster style top to go with it - use the front part of the old convertible top to mount to the windshield, drape over the roll bar (sew in a spreader bar that velcros to the roll bar) then extend back with some custom canvas. it can store under the speeder panel when not in use. ** edit: like in the image a bit.

*** if you want to get really crazy, trim down the windshield for a real speedster look (Lexan?) and get one of these:

Boxster Tonneau - Pelican Parts Technical BBS

no going back from something like that, however.

Is it detrimental to structural integrity if one were to say... chop off the passenger roll bar hoop?

Okay, you have addressed the car, now what about the driver. Go on a diet and drop 20 or 30 lbs. there is some real weight reduction available inside your own shirt, lol;)

who' FG hood did you get? How's fitment?

Ebay hood figment is actually perfect (if you use pins) the front latch is a little off. All in all I was very impressed

porsche boxster fiberglass hood | eBay

That yellow boxster is a work of art that you have to see in person to notice all the little things that have been done to lose weight. The things you can't see are even more impressive. He took 4,5 and 6th gear out of the transmission because it's not needed for autocross. Taillights are mostly gutted. Headlights are just the cover and bolted to the fender. Milled base carriers so that the larger S axle can fit. He switched to base calipers so he can fit lighter 16 inch wheels. Only has the left side of the dash and like most spec boxsters, he's also trimmed the door sheet metal to where it's basically just the outside shell. Everywhere you look on that car, something has been modified to lose weight. I see lots of race cars and his impresses me the most.

So I'm sorry in advance if this has been answered before. How much difference in weight for a fiberglass hood and trunk over original and the likewise Carbon Fiber over stock?

What is the noise level like with all of the carpets and speakers removed?

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There is a noticeable difference in sound. I have all that rear deck, and firewall insulation removed including the foam and padding under the side and back, plus the B-pillar trim and insulation. Probable 10 to 15 DB louder. I can't speak for door panel removal. All tracks require windows down so I can't imagine a big difference unless you remove the door seal.