Help diagnosing cooling system issues
Hi guys,
I'm having some issues with my cooling system and need to run some ideas by you all in the hopes you can help me get to the bottom of this. Caveats - I've read most of the threads here, and tried quite a few of the recommended steps. Here's the synopsis.
At this point, I'm not sure where to turn next. Is it possible that I have a blockage in the hose leading to the front of the car? Any other thoughts on where I should be looking? Thanks for your help guys. |
BTW, its a 2000 Boxster S 6mt
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I did not, I can try that tomorrow. Is it likely that a brand new genuine porsche thermostat would be DOA?
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The vacuum process for refilling is rather exacting. Which Instructions did you follow?
I ask because if for example you did not set the heater controls correctly, that may be the cause. Also if you accidentally let the AirLift tube suck air because it emptied the coolant container. If you did not completely drain all the coolant before pulling the vacuum. It is a really tedious process that becomes even more tedious if you fail to follow precisely the correct set of Instructions. One piece of advice I could not find and maybe JFP would know- if you get the system almost full - but still have say a quart of coolant left over(- a small airlock somewhere?) - is it wise to drive with the burp valve open , hoping this will allow the air bubble to purge itself ? Or perhaps run the engine with the rear jacked up to achieve the same objective ? |
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Thanks for the replies. I will pull the thermostat off and test it. In terms of the procedure, I did precisely what you describe, but was only able to draw 15 inches of vacuum. Any idea what might cause that? It was able to hold that vacuum.
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Also, I didn't find the vacuum fill process to be very tedious. Biggest hassle was draining the coolant, after that pretty simple. Only thing stumping me is the vacuum pressure issue noted.
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Unless you measure the coolant carefully, you have no clue if the the system is completely full.Unless you remove all the old coolant you don't know if you are starting from zero or say 2 qts full. In previous threads we have discussed this in detail. An example of what fools like me do is alluded to by JFP. - the residual coolant that is not removed. When I realized that could be an issue, I used the exhaust on a shop vac to blow out all of the old coolant from a "fully drained" system. Try it. You'll get very wet !But you will have empirical evidence that you filled the system with X qts of coolant ,not just some coolant and a giant air pocket.That would be a good basis to continue the diagnosis from ? |
Thanks. I actually did check, and the vacuum had indeed collapsed the hoses at the front of the engine. My next step will be to test the thermostat, part of which includes another drain/fill.
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When the the old w/p was replaced- do you have the old part- complete? I ask because if the plastic impeller blades had broken, the debris may be plugging the cooling system.The usual blockage area is the heat exchanger.
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I actually replaced the pump because it was making the telltale metallic whine, which , one morning suddenly went away. I thought I likely did have a disintegrated impeller, but upon removal noted the impeller was intact.
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How accessible is the heat exchanger for an inspection?
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Well, some positive signs guys. After driving last night, letting it get up to 230 and parking it, I noticed it came down to 200 in the driveway. I shut it down and opened the bleed valve and let it cool overnight with the bleed valve open. This morning, the coolant level was down, though it hadn't leaked as far as I could tell. Topped it off and drove it around for 20 minutes or so, got up to 180 and stayed there, and heat was working. Going to carefully monitor but the problem may be resolved.
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PC,
Its OK to run the car for a couple of days with the bleed valve in the open (vertical) position or for at least 2 heat up / cool down cycles to rid the system of any small pockets of air. One thing of note is that your drive "around the block" is 5km, which is barely long enough for the thermostat to be fully open and all the +/- 20 litres of coolant to circulate and be up to temperature. I've found that if you want ALL the coolant to be at operational temps, it takes possibly double that 5km distance. |
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