Brake Pad Damping Plate
 

I just put new bakes and rotors on the front of my car today (will do the back tomorrow) Anyways neither side had the Brake Pad Damping Plate. How important is this? Should I buy some and put them in?

https://c1552172.ssl.cf0.rackcdn.com/407399_x800.jpg

havent run them for years.

Sweet! So I don't have to take these back apart.

BTW: The caliper bolts came out with zero problems. Pads looked to have been replace and the bolt looked like it had some type of anti-seize on the treads, zero rust. I bought new bolts, but they use a torx bits to tighten them down. I thought I had the proper torx bit for these bolts, but I did not have one of the proper size. Went ahead and put the old bolts back in and put more anti-seize on them. I'll have to get the right torx bit and put my new bolts in.

Thanks for the reply TRK. :cheers:

I have never used them either. I would that they are highly optional. :)

Harbor Freight has a torx socket set with the correct size T55 IIRC

If you don't get noise don't put them. I was thinking the same when I installed my performance HP+ pads. I WAS WRONG. Night and day difference with the damping plates. The noise would be unbearable.Then again I run drilled rotors because its the Carrera discs on the boxster S. You may not need it with slotted and plain discs. Just use a flat screwdriver or butterknife or pry them off and try not to bend them. You can install them later on by removing one pad at a time and sliding them in. It is just easier with the calipers off.

Use a metal putty knife to separate the dampers from the pads
Much better than a screwdriver or butter knife

Thanks for that info. I wasn't sure if it was T50 or T55. My Torx bit set went from T40 straight to T60.

They were not on my brakes. I would have to purchase new ones. I never had brake noise prior to installing the new pads and rotors and don't have any noise currently. My rotors are directional drilled and EBC Red Stuff brake pads.

Thanks Tom. :cheers:

I had the front version on my 2000S but never had any rear ones. When I went with more race oriented pads I ditched them. The brakes howled like crazy (Carbotech XP8/10) up until I got them on the track and got them bedded in good. They also have metal backs. Most street pads and even spme race pads have built-in shims on the pad back to eliminate the noise. If yours get too squealy then you might want to get some, aftermarket versions are less than $10 I believe.

I ran those as well, they have a nice rubber type of built-in shim on the pad back and were always very quiet for me as well.

I noticed that. I still put some brake lube around the pistons. :cheers:

Link please!. Ebay had them listed for 30$ each aftermarket for the front.

For the Brake Pad Damping Plate or the Brake Pads?

Bing the search term "ÜRO PARTS 99635108802" and it should be the first result, $8.63

I don't know if I would use their brand of AOS or mission critics parts, but I have used their hood shocks and some other parts with great success.

Is anyone running Ceramic brakes? I'd like to reduce the brake dust. I have them on my Cadillac and I love them.

I run Powerstop Ceramic pads as my DD pads. Stops on a dime and gives 5cents change

On Ebay/Amazon they run less than $50/axle

Virtually no dust, and complete silent.. I also sometiomes autocross on them and have tracked them with good results. I now drive a lot harder and faster on the track, so I use EBC Yellow stuff for the track

Please think about why all Brembo systems have that damn damping plates. ;)

Than think about if they may have an additional use besides dampening noise. And maybe you understand they have one. ;)

And if - great job. If not - total disaster.

Regards, Markus

do you actually know anything about this, or just making stuff up?

Those plates don't come on 986 front brembo brakes, only S model. The Bentley says they are for noise control. Is the extra use you are talking about to control pad taper?

I think i know something about it.

The damper system pulls the brake pad back from the brake disc. This is something not that unimportant when it comes to brake wear and brake temperature.

Regards, Markus

that's odd. with track pads, where heating is most important, you can't even fit dampers. and porsche didn't use dampers on the early 986 - given that these are brembo brakes, porsche would have been crazy to remove the dampers from their cars if so important. ps, the dampers are not attached to the pistons, so unsure how the pistons pull the pads back.

they are for noise. i ran mintex pads w/o dampers and no squeal. now on pagid yellow and some squeal when cold but otherwise fine.

uh, there is no reason why the dampers would interfere with any pads. Track pads and street pads have the same basic dimensions. If you can't get your pads in, you are not pushing the pistons in enough. Maybe its a Canadian option???

The rear ones have spring clips that keep them in the pistons.

That being said, I too don't see how that would let the piston pull a pad away from the rotor.

Dampers, use them or not? Up to you. My feeling is they are there from the factory, so they have some value

pagid pads are a bit too thick to fit with dampers when new. bevel the front edge of the pad instead to reduce squeal.

Same with my carbotechs, too thick for dampers when new. The inner rubber caliper seal flexes when you apply the brakes and then unflexes and pulls back the piston slightly when released. Brembo has newer seals out now designed to enhance the piston retract. The rotor run out and wheel bearing play push the pad away but the pad is always very close. On the flip side, Some racers run springs behind their pistons to keep the brake pad more firmly pressed against the rotor between braking to prevent pad knockback. I'm not quite there yet :) I imagine this dies add some slight additional wear and heat...

You guys are correct about the dampers. Not needed as long as there isn't noise. They are a godsend when your pads doesn't match your driving and decide its time to scream.

Steve about the set of springs, that is interesting to consider. You could probably design around a very stiff spring that is "relaxed" so no force when the pad is in contact with the disc and would interact with the pad once it is kicked back. Then again, you will applying a minute amount of force during cornering on the working wheel, slowing it down, but not affect straight line speed. Or you could just left foot brake on the straight to see if your pedal is still there.

I will try to find the thread, it was a video of Leh Keen and he was left foot tapping the brake in a lot of places, and the reason was to get the pad on the rotor so that he would have a firm pedal at the next brake zone, instead of having to use up his brake travel getting the pads onto the rotor. It was very interesting.

Don't try this at an HDPE when people are around(you will freak them out.) . Try slightly tapping the brake with the left foot in large sweepers while adding more throttle. You get to a point where the car wants to break loose form all tires over just the fronts. Why not at HPDE? Because people freak out when they see brake lights.

We've used EBC orange stuff with OEM dampers and without any fitting problems. Personally i use Brembo HP 2000 with OEM dampers and any problems.

Correct. But what happens if the pad heats up? Look at the design - especially of the front dampers.

Regards, Markus