Removing weight from doors
 

Has anyone been able remove weight from the stock doors while still retaining the window or plexi window that operates(or can be pinned up or down). I'm trying to determine if I should rip the doors apart next. The car is a track car that gets driven occasionally on the street (has cage).

Good question. I am in the same boat as you.

How about using 996 GT3 club sport doors (alloy) or since you car has a full cage how about 996 cup doors (carbon fibre).

Really light weight – maybe a little expensive. ;)

Regards, Markus

the cup plexi windows are designed to work with a frame - dunno how they would function in a boxster application. do you have door panels (ie, worried about glass in your business in a side impact)? if so, lighter cards can be found on ebay.co.uk where the early cars came without speakers or air bags (ie, the panels are light). if that isn't light enough, i saw this on a forum once ...

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1480693949.jpg

I'm interested in cutting all the metal I can. I'm really wondering how is there to take out. The door cards I can solve

Here's kcpaz's door:
http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x...ps8grvvmwm.jpg
(and his car for sale: http://986forum.com/forums/boxsters-sale-wanted/63028-fs-boxster-s-race-car-audi-4-2-v8-engine-lots-motec.html )
How about that with a clear vinyl (like the rear window) held in place with snaps or velcro?

Fixed Lexan with a slider? Polycarbonate-Lexan Window Source??? - Pelican Parts Technical BBS
http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1480697414.jpg

im lusting after a pair of these:
Getty Design - Wings, Hoods, Fenders, Decklids, Spoiler, Aerodynamics, and more for Porsche

There's no easy answer - everything is a trade-off.

You can get some of the weight out by removing the door speakers and the electric motors for the door locks but there is a lot of weight in the window controller/motor, the window mechanism, and the window itself.

Pop in plastic windows might be an option but they will be a huge trade off compared to glass.

I can say with 100% certainty that driving a car to/from the track without windows takes a certain level of commitment. Sure, its easy in the spring or fall, but its hot as hell in summer and cold as hell in winter.

The temp this morning on my 90 min drive from LA to Willow Springs was in the mid-30's. That's 90 mins of 70mph, 33F air, blowing on you constantly. That is a 14F wind chill factor. I wear thick thermals under jeans, a thermal shirt, a long sleeve t-shirt, a hoodie, and a ski jacket. I have 12v heated gloves (that motorcycle riders use) to warm my hands with another pair of outer gloves to keep the heat in. I wear a thick beanie with a face mask and hoodie over the top to keep my head warm.

You have to want to do this.

I'd say to keep the windows until you are ready and willing to live with whatever it takes to get the car lighter. When you're ready to commit, then go all the way and rip out everything.

As long as you don't drive with an open top the alloy doors should work. I would recommend a stock hard top if you want to use alloy doors.

I don't think that it's a good idea to remove the inner part of the door. Maybe can be done in a 996 but definitely not in a Box and if you want to keep the side windows. Other point is side impact stability – especially in a race car. The cage will prevent a lot, but if something punctures the door it's better to have 2 sheets of metal and maybe an additional inner trim.

The electric window regulators are indeed heavy compared to manual ones. Also glass is heavier than lexan. Problem i see with the side windows is that they produce a lot of stability to the Box chassis.

Also if you don't have electric window regulators and you want to open or close the door you'll run into problems, because the windows go down when you open the door and up after it is closed.

Always safety first! ;)

Regards, Markus