Immobilizer got moist. no start, random other issues. car stuck!
 

I'll get to the point, since this could have likely been prevented by being more alert/active in keeping water OUT :ah: (and drilling a hole!)


We had some pretty heavy rain over the past week, I noticed the other night on the way home that my alarm seemed to trigger for a brief moment while driving... no other effects.


Last night everything seemed fine, but the alarm was randomly triggered a couple times.

I went to start the car.. nothing.. I could still arm and disarm the alarm with the fob.. everything else (EXCEPT THE TOP) worked fine.

SO I CHECKED THE BATTERY, IT IS FINE! (getting that out of the way)


Never have had moisture under the drivers seat, but i parked on a decline in my driveway (usually park on an incline or level).

There was water under the front seat.. great.

I got out as much as i could.. even left a small space heater in the car with the window cracked last night to dry to get out excess moisture (made sure it wasn't going to get too hot)


Today I went out, sun is shining brightly, and it's around noon... I got in the car and put the top down (yay, that works again) but quickly found out no matter what i do, the trunks are now locked (can open back with fob and the alarm sets/doors lock/unlock)

I've left it sit with seats both up, forward as can be, etc

The alarm has randomly went off one time. still no response from the car, still no way to get access to the front trunk that I know of (i can jump this connection, right?)



From what i can deduct, this thing is on the fritz and possibly fried.. I am guessing since the locking system is still working to some extent along with other functions that it is not yet completely dead.

Pull everything out and dry it out? I have zero experience with getting these seats out


Has anyone ever gotten their car working again from a situation like this? I am GUESSING the fuse on the box is still going to be good given that some things are still working.


My question: Is there anything else I can do right now to try to diagnose this other than getting everything dry as the sahara? Please take into consideration the other external factors. I am not sure how all of these other "gremlins" tie in with the immobilizer.. is this all in the same box? All on the same fuse? Any tricks to getting the trunks to unlock so i can get to the battery?

You need to pull the immobilizer out, open it up and let it dry. Once it's dry, clean with rubbing alcohol and a soft bristle toothbrush to remove any corrosion. Pay extra attention to the connectors that plug into the immobilizer.

There is an emergency release cable for your front trunk located just inside the passenger side (right side) wheel well. You'll need to pull the liner back to get to it and even then it's a pain to see.

It's under the headlight kinda, isn't it? i had that headlight out and saw a loop

I don't even know how to pull the seats yet, guessing i need to grab the hex set

thanks for any suggestions.. is there any process to "relearn" the pill in the key or should it just be plug and go if it is going to work?

or.. can i get it out without pulling the seat?

I'm sorry to ask questions that have already been answered. just having little luck with searches and trying to get this done asap.

You can probably get it out without removing the seat, but you'll need thin arms and a good sense of feel. The seat comes out with 4 bolts. They are star bolts, but a regular 10mm hex socket works just fine.

Yes, that loop under the headlight tray is the emergency release.

You need to get the battery disconnected first. Pulling the immobilizer or seat without disconnecting the battery will only cause other issues.

appreciate the help.. will try to report back in a bit :ah:

:cheers:

https://scontent-yyz1-1.xx.fbcdn.net...9&l=66bab40988

well, let's hope this hasn't caused any permanent damage... I've had luck with electronics (even motherboards) in the past when it comes to this stuff... just hope it is not FUBAR...

What a stupid place to put this thing. Is it common to drill holes underneath it?

Pack the immobilizer in a uncooked rice, in a sealed container, for a few days.

Some say brown rice works harder than white rice. FYI.

Er, did not realize we can just attach photos..

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1471565572.jpg


I want to blame the mitsubishi chip on the board just out of spite from owning DSMs in the past.

Going to give it the toothbrush + iso treatment and a little dry heat.

hopefully I can at least get the car to start again even if I lose some function. Would be nice to be able to drive it to my garage rather than deal with current situation.

I've already read what a nightmare this is to fix from a financial standpoint... There still isn't a relatively easy bypass for this to get the DME to start the car? In hindsight I should have put the top back up before removing this thing.

You have access to a vacuum pump? Zip lock bag, lots of vacuum for a few hours at least might just do the trick. Vacuum lowers the boiling point of the water to get it out of places heat wont.

Cleaned it with ISO alcohol, let it dry, blew it off with duster, let it dry


hooked it up, nothing works except "click-click" and two beeps when i hit the keyfob (either button)

Now I am unable to use the windows or anything.. car still keys on.. dash, hvac, radio, etc.. all the accessories work except the ones tied to the CLU (no windows, no top, no start, no lock, but keyfob is still trying to work)


Any ideas? The only thing that happened is i lost the ability to do all the **************** I could before taking it apart/out

edit: yeah i can have a vacuum pump on it tomorrowm, jcslocum.

tried again... got the top to work, windows work, doors lock and unlock via fob and alarm arms via fob... rear trunk opens again too.


No start.
Latches for trunks wont unlock.


Is there some procedure I am missing here to get the key to work? If it's communicating fine with everything else, should i be looking at fuses and other links?


I still can't get to the battery.
When i tested it earlier it was at 12.9v.. I shut the frunk because I didn't think i was going to get locked out!

ugh. :ah:

Unlock the frunk with the small cable in the pass side wheel well. But the battery sounds good.

Get with Woody on here know as itsnotanova for a new immobilizer ecu, and key/ignition lock.

I noticed some corrosion on the red wire on the smaller plug again.




I couldn't find the stupid wire, and obviously can't take the wheel off.

I tried that "screwdriver between the trunk release trick" and I must not be getting it. Does anyone have a picture of themselves actually DOING that? I don't see any "white thing" to move.

with everything working, I'm not yet convinced this is a loss... and if it is, it's going into the garage for the foreseeable future.

Good thing I start on 18 credit hours on Monday :ah:

Still in disbelief that water got in there, it's always been dry.... I've heeded the warnings.. I'm going to throw it in the vac with some heat and try to make sure the plugs are all nice and dry

I still need to get this f'n trunk open. This is absolute stupidity to have a car where you can't even get to the tow-kit if the computer-that-lays-in-a-bowl-with-no-drain-in-a-convertible gets wet.


Is there any reason to really think this thing is dead if it's operating all the other stuff correctly?

A few notes that may or may not help:
My second Boxster was a flood salvaged '01 that had sat with water-saturated carpet for a few months. The immobilizer/Central Locking Unit box under the seat had components that were corroded beyond repair. Some of the pins on the wire harness connector were also corroded.
-For the wiring, I got a new connector from Woody (User name itsnotanova) and spliced it on.
-With the box being unrepairable, I bought a used set off eBay (key fob, immobilizer box, and DME/ECU) for about $500.
http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1471612811.jpg

-There is also a shop called ECUDoctors.com that repairs them and sells waterproof boxes. Porsche 996 & Boxster ECU Test and Repair, Immobilizer Removal, and Performance Tuning Upgrades - Specialized ECU Repair

-Here's a link to how I got the frunk open:
http://986forum.com/forums/506180-post3.html

-The padding under the carpet is like a sponge and it Will Not Dry on it's own. The moisture remaining there can corrode your CLU box again. The carpet has to be removed, or lifted while air is circulated underneath.
http://986forum.com/forums/506288-post11.html

UPDATE:

I got the frunk open.

At this point I've cleaned the unit out, there was some corrosion, but there wasn't anything too out of the ordinary. The thing passed the "smell test"




EVERYTHING works EXCEPT *NO START* and *FRUNK AND TRUNK ALWAYS LOCKED*




Fob works fine, i can pop the rear still, i can put the top up and down, I reset the memory on the windows after disconnecting and fully charging the battery.

I put the clu back in with the battery disconnected. It's OBVIOUSLY getting power and all functions work except that the car is obviously immobilized and I can't figure out *why* I can lock and unlock the doors just fine with key or keyless


Is there anyone who knows what fuses i should be looking at or where I should be checking for voltage?

Or ANY suggestions on this one? It seems intuitive that this unit is not dead, but the car has been immobilized. Can this be reset with the key?


Looking for

1) any possible procedures to deactivate the immobilizer with the key or whatever


2) fuses that should be checked

3) places voltages should be checked.




THANK YOU in advance.


I do not have a durametric.

I have some corrosion on pin #4.. I know this is "immobilizer control" but where does it trace to?

Pin A4 connects to A6 on the "signal transformer anti-drive-off lock". I think that's a small module that bolts on to the steering column.
http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1471746243.jpg

hazardc - did you check the fuse in the immobiliser ??

EDIT: Yes, I've checked the fuse... The box is working, most of the functionality on the immobilizer side (the smaller plug) is still there, and the rest of the stuff controlled by the bigger plug seems to be working. That's my headache right now. There was corrosion on pin#4 (immobilizer control)

Here's today's news.. More to come tomorrow.

Yeah... The weird thing is when I had some time today (had very little.. hopefully sunday will be better) ... I went over the board again (noticed some corrosion on the PCB I hadn't previously noticed) ... The car still wouldn't unlock the trunks (I now have the cable hanging out of the front so no more frunk access loss)

To the point.. I could hear what sounded like a relay click in the trunk when I tried to start the car this time (remember, still no actual unlock on the trunk cables.. pretty sure immobilizer locks those)


I don't believe I was hearing this audible click before (both in the key switch and in the rear of the car) but still, no start.


I am really going to try to go after it tomorrow. I am back to the university on Monday with 21 credit hours (and I work in a lab) :ah::ah::ah::ah::ah::ah:


I've never had issue with this car. This sucks. Hopefully I can fix it without spending a ton of cash. I have worked on cars for most of my life, and some pretty high-profile performance related cars at that... but I am at a new house and don't really have the amenities I am used to having when doing automotive surgery, and cannot currently even get the thing into the garage.

This literally could not have happened at a worse time. (My civic just toasted an alternator and I am replacing the radiator tomorrow as well, noticed a small leak) ... so I am without a car until something gets fixed. I can hoof it to classes, but my research lab is a 30 minute drive away, and my work is time-sensitive.. This whole situation shook me real good. I just wish this damn thing was easy to bypass. If someone really wanted to steal it, they'd just drag it away on a truck anyways.

One thing I will tell people from here-on-out is their first mod should be to put a couple extra drain holes in the cabin... should be the first mod to these cars, especially below this computer... What the hell were they thinking putting something so sensitive in a literal BOWL with no drainage underneath the seat? (oh, and i'd mention that drilling the holes is in no way an excuse to not keep the normal ones cleaned out... but they can be overwhelmed, and water apparently will find it's way into the cabin regardless of what measures you take short of keeping a cover on the car or in the garage. (I am now convinced my garage roof will somehow start leaking the second i park this car in it) :D:dance:


It seems like I'm close, but really need to be thorough and just hope it decides to cooperate. I don't think this thing is actually BROKEN BROKEN... It seems like these cars just have a million reasons to not want to start.

My buddy has a durametric with one vin left on it. I'm hoping he might be able to stop by tomorrow.


Thank you to those who keep trying to help, it's appreciated more than you know. I will follow up tomorrow.

Hmm... I'll try to trace it tomorrow. Do you have any experience with this diagnosis?

One other thing i noticed... my steering wheel doesn't lock.

So the three problems No steering lock, no start, no frunk/trunk unlock (keyfob opens rear.. using cable to open front)

One thing i noticed is i think the transponder coil is actually working now. it makes an audible click in the dash and in the rear of the car when i turn the key... I do not believe it previously was giving me that much.


I was really tired when I was working on it today, should have put a meter on the battery to make sure it wasn't draining again (there has been some parasitic drain during this.. i'm guessing when the alarm kept chirping)

Hi hazard
Check this thread for opening the front trunk. http://986forum.com/forums/performance-technical-chat/62706-how-open-hood-when-battery-good.html
I have the same problem with mine I had about 10 to 15 litres of water under the front seat from blocked drains. My board was like yours and had corrosion on it like yours. I cleaned it with alcohol and it still had the same problem but mine would start but key buttons would not work. So I removed the seat again removed the board and sent it out to a company here close to Ottawa and I received it yesterday. I will try to install it today if it can stop raining and will let you know if it works.

For reference, this eBay auction has a good picture of that module:
1998 Porsche Boxster Steering Column with Ignition Switch and Key | eBay

What I do know is that the interrogation to the transponder in your key passes through that module. That connection is required for the car to start.

a little corrosion on one of those connectors under the seat may still be the problem. I had to replace the entire connector on one of my cars, too much corrosion.

I hope all of this effort resolves the issue. If not and you go to getting a new unit, get with Woody on here for used parts and also get the drivers door lock so it will match the new key too.

Best of luck, sir! That is a lot of water! We've been getting a LOT of rain lately here in ohio from the coastal storms in the gulf moving up north...


I was able to get access to the frunk two days ago. i now have the cable hanging out of the front so i can open it at will while still being able to close it.

@78F350
My ignition switch is giving he "click" in a couple places when i turn it.. i think pin #4 on the unit might still be having issues.. I am goign to go over the plugs again more thoroughly in a few.

it seems like it's getting all the way to "just need the go-ahead" to start and that signal isn't getting there. I think pin 4 (immobilizer control) has something to do with it.. but just a hypothesis at this point.

If it is not solved today I am going to phone a friend for a durametric call. I don't want to use up his last VIN slot on his unit, so I'm trying to eliminate everything i can think of before doing that much.

Is a Durametric going to be of any help though?

I would hope that it might show some faults.


Going to replace the ignition switch Monday... I think I pushed it past its limits doing the key jiggle for hours over the past few days... key got stuck a few times. Best to get it out of the way, though I don't think this is the cause (hey, one can hope, though..)

I have a Durametric, I will plug it on later and see what it tells you.

Got it started!


Somewhere in between charging the battery, disconnecting and reconnecting multiple times, trying to start the car, and cleaning up the wiring multiple times, I must have blown fuse D1

It was not blown yesterday. Replaced it, car fired right up and ran like hot dog**************** for a while. Drove it for about 10 miles with varying rates of cruising/partial throttle/flogging and eventually the whole powerband came back. car feels fast for some reason (probably because it's not 90 degrees with 90% humidity for the first time in a few weeks)


Now that I'm here, any clue how to get the trunk/frunk levers to start behaving again? I don't want to have to keep a cable dangling around for every time i want to get into the front.

I can live with having a running car for the time being :D :dance::dance::dance::dance:

:cheers:

I'm letting it idle for a little bit... then a much needed checking of all the drain holes and then to the car wash.. poor car looks like poo right now, but she's runnin!

What year is your car?
Can you open the fuel door?