PS Line Replace
 

I'm quite sure I blew a power steering line on the way home in my new to me 2001 986. Hydraulic fluid is leaking out below what seems to be below the drivers seat location. When I put the car in inspection mode and checked the PS fluid it was empty, added more and verified it is leaking from this spot.

I did a few searches in different areas on here and the DIY sections but didn't find anything specific to changing these lines. I'm going to attempt to jack it tomorrow and figure out if it is the intake or return PS line.

Any advice on my next step is appreciated. This is my second day with this car. :)

I just replaced 3 of the 4 of the PS lines on my Spec Boxster race car when I went off track at 135mph and mostly ripped them from underneath the car.

Go here to start and scroll down to Post #531: http://986forum.com/forums/boxster-racing-forum/46070-spec-boxster-build-14.html

The PS replacement saga continues down the page at Post #555. Then continues on the next page at Posts #568 and #582.

Be careful because the high pressure rubber line that runs close to the exhaust gets hard, burned and starts leaking, it is the cause of fires, I had the same problem and at that time I was driving thru mexico, the line was a few hundred dollars if ordered and was going to take a long time to get it. finally I had it custom made in central mexico in an hydraulic hose place for about 40 dollars and it has been great since.

You might get lucky and only need to tighten the fittings that connect right about under the driver's seat. That's where the front two lines meet the rear two lines.

For a little help with some pictures, scroll down to fig. 8 and 9 on this page:
Porsche Boxster Engine Drop / Removal - 986 / 987 (1997-08) - Pelican Parts Technical Article
There are lots of good DIY Tech Articles on the Pelican Parts web pages.
Welcome to the forum.

Thanks everyone for the reply and links, very helpful. Unfortunately it wasn't just a matter of tightening the fittings. Seems that some how the line is cracked.

How hard would this be for me to replace? found a local guy with a line I can buy, or should I just take it to the garage? I don't have a lift but can use jack stands.


http://i726.photobucket.com/albums/w...psxxuzwnth.jpg

Video
http://i726.photobucket.com/albums/w...psjc1d52bt.mp4

After thinking it over and being that it is just the Pressure Line (hard pipe) that connects to the rack and not the engine side of the PS line I'm going to try and replace it myself. The garage is quite far away and this seems like a pretty straight forward job.

Thanks again for everyones help and input thus far. 😊

The front lines are the easiest to replace.

1. Remove the left front wheel.

2. With a flashlight you will be able to see where the PS lines attach to the steering rack. Its a little cramped but its easy to get a socket with an extension in there.

3. Both lines at the steering rack are held in by a single bolt with a washer that holds them into the rack. Remove the bolt and the washer and you can easily pull out either line from the steering rack. The washer can only go in one way so be sure to look at how it installs so you can put it back correctly during install.

4. Remove the line from all of the little clips under the car.

5. Disconnect the line under the car where it mates with the rear section that goes to the PS pump.

6. Wiggle the line and it will come out by pulling rearward from under the car. You may have to rotate it and wiggle and move it around to get it to clear the other line and whatever else it can get hooked up on. This is easier than it sounds.

7. Install is reverse of removal. Same thing - wiggle, rotate and you can get it up to the steering rack without too much trouble. Insert into steering rack and install washer and bolt. It took me a few tries to get the bolt and washer back in properly -be patient. Reconnect at the mating connector under the car and re-attach all of the clips.

8. Remove the engine cover to get to the PS reservoir and fill.

9. Start the engine and check for leaks. Then turn the steering from full left to full right a couple of times.

10. Turn off engine and re-check PS fluid level. Refill and repeat steering wheel full left to right.

11. Check PS level again. Repeat until the PS fluid level remains full after a couple of full left to right turns of the steering wheel.

12. You're done.

Expect to spend 2-3 hours.

Hey Whistler Nice car in your introduction post. Looking at your picture it appears to me that the line pictured has been dented/deformed. My guess is it looks like someone put a jack where it was not supposed to go. With that said, I'd check around the jacking points along the passenger side as well. The AC lines run near there and can be crushed very easily especially at the front jack point.

Hey y'all.
I'm reading through threads on power steering leaks, and hoped some of you who've been through it can help me abit here?

My clutch suffered a catastrophic failure when I was at the track last time. I pulled off track into the weeds and then my car was dragged ass-end first onto a flat bed.

When I pulled the car into the garage, I noticed a power steering leak inboard of the front left wheel. I ignored it for a minute, as I was focused on the bigger problem.

Today, I fired the car back up and found the P.S. reservoir to be empty (sounded like it, anyway) and had drips again inboard of left front wheel, and under the driver's seat. I put some fluid in the reservoir and cranked the wheels, while my wife called out the leaks. Seems when I rev the motor the drip increases, at least in the front.

I haven't been able to look closer, as I have too many things pulling my time, but I'd love it if y'all saved me some rooting around and directed me to the most likely causes?

Thanks in advance.

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Here is a helpful diagram of the power steering lines and system.

There is a high pressure line that goes from the pump to the steering rack and then a low pressure line that returns fluid from the rack to the pump. Each of the power steering lines are split into a front section and a rear section using a special connector (#15/#16 in the diagram).

Both lines attach to the steering rack behind the drivers side front wheel. Remove the wheel and you can see in there to determine where its leaking. Directions to replace are in one of the posts above.

A leak under the drivers seat area is likely coming from #15/#16 connectors. Remove the underbody tray and you'll see those connectors and it should be pretty easy to find the leak.

http://i1114.photobucket.com/albums/...psbwxppyph.jpg


This is a photo of the #15/#16 connector. I had a leak at the red arrow.
http://i1114.photobucket.com/albums/...ps7syqjv72.jpg


This is a photo of the steering rack and the two power steering lines. I had a leak at the red arrow.
http://i1114.photobucket.com/albums/...psoyyel0at.jpg

Thstone, dood.... YER SO COOL! Ahahahaha!

Thank you! I hope to get back out there larer today.

What would make it go all of the sudden like that, in two places? Over-rev? (I think that's what took my clutch)
I installed an underdrive pulley just before going out there this last time.

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Is there a steel braided line kit he can go after and replace all the flex lines while in there?

It looks like both of my leaks are occurring on hose # 2. Which I think is the low-pressure, return line?
I have a leak at the # 16 Union, same place you did, Stone. But mine looks like it may also be leaking at the center of the Union.

I also have a leak where it goes into the steering rack.

I see that Pelican sells O-rings for the power steering. This isn't just that simple is it,?

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...324754d0db.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...bd1da1f3ce.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...e349d20f34.jpg

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Hello Maytag,

Yes, as long as you use the correct size O'rings it should take you a few minutes to replace them, as previously mentioned by Tom, the two hoses are held in position by a single bolt and plate (a surprisingly simple design used across the all VW product line).

Good luck,
Gilles

Thanks, Gilles. To be sure we are on the same page, note that in both places, it is leaking from the back of the fitting, where the plastic hose enters. It is not leaking at the fitting where it goes into the rack, or at the fitting where it connects to the other hose (where the o-rings are)
I'm not sure an o-ring will solve that?
What do you think? Help me find a way to think that'll do it, cuz I'm game to find an o-ring or two tomorrow, haha!

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Maytag, since the rack is full of gunk I am guessing the oil rings to be the culprit

If your car is drivable clean everything up, :-) and you should be able to see where the leak is originating.

Not sure I understood you well (sorry), are you suspecting that the leak is coming from the rear side of the fitting, at the end of the rubber hose..? That is sipping alright but not enough to create the mess at the rack anyway (IMHO).

But once you wash it, we'll see for sure :)

Thanks Gilles, I appreciate your thoughtful attention. However, I don't need to clean it to find the leak, it's quite evident, haha.

And yes, it leaks at the plastic (it's not rubber) hose where it goes into the fitting. Not from the connection point of the fitting. Both ends are leaking this way. Have you seen this before? Odd to me, as this is supposed to be the low-side, return. Should be very low pressure. Right?


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I assume that you mean that the line is leaking at the red arrows. If so, it is probably not related directly to pressure - any stress on the line (usually bending but could also be axial) can cause a leak where the connector attaches/seals to the line itself. Either way, now that you know where the leaks are, they are a fairly straightforward repair.

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1536164685.jpg