Manual roof downgrade
 

The Spyder is too expensive.
The Spyder conversion kit is too expensive.
The (hard top) Cayman is too expensive.

Has anyone removed the convertible mechanism, (saved the weight), and developed a manual-only option for the Boxster roof?

I don't see why you couldn't remove the motor, cables, transmission, and brackets and just operate the top manually. It would probably save 10+ lbs.

I haven't found a video on how to manually raise a boxster roof but this writeup makes it appear that it's not feasable on a day in day out basis. I know that on a 996 it's a tedious process. I take it there's no "downgrade kit"...?

(see post #10):
http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/662-how-to-manually-lowering-convertible-top/

As far as weight, I figured it'd be a lot more than just 10lbs, don't convertibles in general weigh between 100-200lbs more than their coupe counterparts?

Sassmatt72, Woody and probably a few others now have modified a trunk latch to hold the clam-shell down. I had the transmissions removed on my first Boxster and had planned to replace them. It was so quick and easy to do the top manually, I never bothered.

it's more lie 15 lbs...lol
easy as pie, and the rear latch is simple to do as well...

I'm so glad I modified mine and got rid of the motor and transmissions. It is real easy to modify and real easy to live with. I can open and close mine in five seconds.

ANYTHING that makes a Porsche simpler, more reliable,lighter and more reliable should be a golden DIY write-up project ?
Anyone going to improve on Woody's great start?

I finished mine. The pic 78F350 shared was during mockup. Here's the final.
http://i765.photobucket.com/albums/x...psbo9ssjdg.jpg
http://i765.photobucket.com/albums/x...psr0vcyvq7.jpg
The release cable is just the right length and sits right behind the driver. I'll take some more pics tomorrow.

Brilliant - he saves weight,complexity and the risk of a top failure.
And this is a guy who has an endless source of spare parts to repair his top mechanism. There must be a reason he does a downgrade to a manual system !
Thanks for sharing Woody.

LOL Thanks! My main goal at the time was strictly to lose weight. I love it so much I'd probably do it to a boxster I wasn't putting on a diet.

How much weight does it save (what parts are removed) ? Does the aluminum 987 engine cover save much also.?

The aluminum cover is a lbs or two less than the 986 cover. I didn't weigh just the vert parts separately but Matt says 15lbs. I removed the motor, cables, transmissions, pushrods and associated hardware. I'm probably forgetting something else too. Here's a pic of my first round at lightning up my box
http://i765.photobucket.com/albums/x...psja6enhnq.jpg
I go into more detail about my boxster on this thread
http://986forum.com/forums/show-tell-gallery/59449-woodys-build-thread.html#post496499

Curious, do you notice a sound difference between 987 aluminum engine cover vs 986 plastic/metal engine cover? I believe the 986 would be negligibly quieter.

I didn't notice any difference when it was on the 987. I can't judge it on my box because I've removed all the insulation from the carpets and engine compartment area.

This is the only thing I think left to share about this mod. I tuck the cable under the carpet hold down clips.
http://i765.photobucket.com/albums/x...psbyzcx13t.jpg
And have the pull part right behind my left shoulder.
http://i765.photobucket.com/albums/x...psspgvhuh6.jpg

Great mod. I've owned two Miatas and loved the speed with which I could get the top up or down while seated (in the case of 'down' I could do it with one hand when moving slowly).

I've always thought the Porsche system was slow and doesn't exactly present as robust. I agree that anything that can simplify and remove weight is awesome.

I don't see your A/C system in that pile of parts. That would be a bunch more weight off.

We need our AC down here. That's some dedication to live without AC and I'm too old and cranky to do that anymore. 😉

I'd say living on the 'wet' coast Flaps needs a speedy working drop top more than he needs the A/C system.

After considerable research I've determined that at some point the roof/motor will fail.
When any part fails, an upgraded roof/motor at $4k is the solution.
Definitely more than I'd want to spend.

If I found a Boxster with a hard top, took out the roof/motor and just drove with the hard top, my concern is that the hard top is set into the grooves of the body so it's not permanently affixed like a coupe roof. Therefore if it gets hit hard enough from the side, it can "slide" into the occupants. If it were a rollover scenario, this "sliding across" effect makes would end up causing greater damage that not having the hard top

Simple solution?
 

Hi all, enjoying the Forum very much. '98 is 4 weeks new and the top is stuck closed. I know this is just the beginning so I like the idea of a manual top. A local Porsche guy says remove the 19mm bolts and the top is manual. I'm getting to the diagrams for more detail but I'm interested in your experience. Is it that easy?

Thanks for the guidance.

It can be that easy, or harder in increments, depending on how much stuff you want to remove.

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1493165302.jpg

The unrestrained clamshell may rise up a little (less than an inch) at speed, but isn't going to go anywhere.

I've seen it in person, and Woody's manual top mod is brilliant. If I were fed up with the power roof I'd be knocking on Woody's door for the exact details on how he converted to manual.

Fantastic. Very much appreciated.

One more question: order of operation. 19mm bolt first or arms?

Yes. (matters not)

Excellent Thread - saves us money and frustration ,saves weight, diagrams, photos
Thanks to the Contributors.
BTW if all that has failed is the plastic ball joint on the Arm ,you don't need to buy the entire arm from Porsche. EBay has the plastic or metal ball-end pieces inexpensively.
Search terms - some or all the following: "Boxster Metal Top Push Rod Ball Joint "
The trick is to push completely home the new plastic 'cup' on the metal ball end. If you fail ,it will look O.K. and work a few times then fall off. You need a tight fitting wedge to force it all the way 'home'. I use an old ,large, flat blade screwdriver. Jam it between the back of the cup and the bracket.Just keep pushing it tighter and twist a little. A little silicone grease in the cup helps.
I shall try generic M8 gas spring ball ends in stainless steel.

Would one of you guys be willing to make a video of how you put the top up and down in this manual configuration? Thanks!

Maybe later... I drove the Neon to work today. :eek:
It is simple:

1. Unlatch the top normally at the windshield.
2. Standing beside the car, lift the back of the clamshell and place it all the way up. - It should stay up without support.
3. Lift and pull back the top from the front with one hand, and fold at the window with the other hand. - It should drop in the the lowered position.
4. Place the clamshell back down.

:cheers:

Still want a video?

78F350,

Your description is super clear, no video needed!

If something big fails on my roof mechanism, I will go manual.

Thanks!

Update
 

All, the descriptions and the pics were amazing. I was done in 45 minutes and that included a coffee break. The roof is manual and it is awesome. No missed driving days here. Thank you very much.

I just converted mine to manual today for ease of opening and closing while I install the Z top. (Well, I stopped by my indy's shop to get a CEL scanned on my lunch break and he helped me get it open halfway first)

5 minutes

1. Pop the two black plastic clips off the ball joints for the clam shell struts

2. Pop the red plastic clip off of the transmission rod ball joint

3. Don't touch the button

(I will be removing motor, transmission, roof, clam shell, and trunk lid in the next couple of weeks so this is just temporary)

The top on one of my cars stopped working a couple days ago. I recorded a video of how I opened the top and converted it to manual operation:

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/QOLhAR8bLio?rel=0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
(Also going do a short post in the DIY section.)

Woody, can you repost the pics you have of your latch mechanism that were lost in the photobucket?

How much weight to be saved if you remove all of these parts, including the whole top (if I am going to be driving with a hardtop). Do I still need something to latch the clamshell or will the installed hardtop hold it down (just realized I could probably quickly look at the car to see but I am at work...)

I'm in Alaska for a few more days. I'll try and remember when I get back

I have a complete set of mechanism parts (transmissions, cables, arms, etc.) packed in a medium flat rate box. It weighs 15 lbs.

The 'canvas' and frame weighs 35 lbs. Slight variables for glass, liner, bolts, but 35 is a good general number making the total an easy 50 lbs.

I put a hardtop on that car just after I made the video. The clamshell will not budge with the hardtop on.

Awesome, have a great trip!

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1508844720.jpg

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1508844782.jpg
Sorry it took so long to get these pictures. I couldn't remember what thread was asking for them. I love my manual top. One of my favorite modifications.

what parts did the latch and latch mechanism come off of?

The latch is off the trunk of a boxster. I had to fabricate the mounting bracket using the metal piece from the top motor. It's real easy if you have a mig welder.