clutch bleeding from slave cylinder
 

Seen this video on youtube and was wondering if any boxster owners have bled their clutch this way?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wdf--suwqw0

some good knowledge too.
Thanks in advance,
Randy

I haven't, I have used the Motive bleeder with success. The clutch slave cylinder is in a very tight spot too... not sure if there is room for a little pump like that. And it looks like it would be easy to run that little can dry. When you are under there and finally get a good connection to the slave cylinder bleed screw, you will want to do it in one shot :) At least for me :) It was TIGHT under there :)

I just replaced the clutch and currently assembling the car back together, just got the axles and reinforcement bracket on. Planning to bleed the clutch today before installing muffler, so I have plenty of space to work with. :):cheers:

I want to purchase the motive bleeder, but just can't seem to find it anywhere locally. And I don't want to order one and wait for it to deliver, because my new to me Jetex muffler comes in today!:cheers:

This method seems like a good idea, since I don't have a helping hand, or a motive bleeder...

Ahhhh... with it all out of the car... should be plenty of room :) I'm jealous :)

I guess as long as you kept the little oil can full and didn't push any extra air up the line it seems like it could work out pretty well.

I guess one of the miti-vac type solutions might work too, and Harbor freight might have a couple of cheap bleeding solutions as well.

I've only done motive bleeding and the old fashioned 2 man brake pumping method. I'm not sure if that works on the clutch or not. The Bentley says to use a pressure bleeder, and also to have the clutch pedal fully depressed while bleeding. I'm not sure if that applies to the other types of bleeding as well.

Good luck!

We do it everyday. Secrete to using the Motive bleeder is to (1) Make sure the clutch pedal is on the floor (we use a holding tool to keep it one man), and (2) Find a very stubby 12 point double box wrench (we use an old Craftsman that is barely 3 inches long), put the wrench on the bleeder before attaching the drain tubing.

The short wrench can easily open and close the bleeder in the confined space, and the entire process probably takes 2 min.

Completely unnecessary, plus it is pushing all the dirty fluid into the brake master cylinder. Bad idea.

Thanks Steved0x and JFP in PA, Motive speed bleeder it is:cheers:

Amazon prime that !@#$ Over night it for an extra 3bucks if you are in a hurry :)

Dubaday,

Since you will be pressurizing the brake reservoir, it be a good time to flush the entire brake system, just get extra fluid to complete the task...

You will love the Motive bleeder (for a few extra bucks get the one with the swivel thingi on the hose)

+1 on both points. the European Black Label model is the one to get.

Timely post. I bought the Motive a month back so I could do the brake bleed but I also wanted to do the Clutch fluid portion as well but heard bad things could happen trying to bleed clutch fluid.

So how is the process of doing brakes and Clutch at the same time.
Do all 4 corners then Clutch?
Then a quick recycle of 4 corners then Clutch?

Hope I got the right one...

Amazon.com: Motive Products Power Bleeder - European- Black Label: Automotive

I did just that!:cheers:

Hey kk2002s,

I found a good write-up from pedro's garage that I will follow myself. Thanks pedro, for this detailed step by step instructions.:cheers:
Bleed the Brakes and Clutch Porsche DIY

Good luck,
Randy

Yes, that is the right one. I also used Pedro's DIY the first time I did it and all went well. If Pedro wrote a book I would totally buy it. His write-ups are the best!

Sweet! Looking like I'll have her on the ground and running by the weekend. Gotta agree fully with you there Mark_T. Hint hint, Pedro, make a book!

This power bleeder did the trick, thanks again for the responses!

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1457379255.jpg

Hi guys,
Bumping an old thread. I am currently bleeding my clutch system after replacing the slave cylinder and a line which was leaking at the fitting.

I used the motive bleeder and followed the Pelican instructions. Attached bleeder, pushed pedal to floor, pressurized to 22PSI, opened bleeder and bled out air, then removed motive and using a turkey baster removed excess fluid to get down to MAX fill line. No leaks anywhere so that's progress.

Car is still in the air. When I depress the pedal, it still wants to go to the floor and note return. Pelican instructions say to put back on the ground to test pedal actuation. I want some input from the crew here to tell me this is normal before I do so, because I still have to assemble the new exhaust and a few other under-body items.

Any input? Thanks guys

No. This is not normal.
After the bleeding process, you should help the pedal go up to position, but after that it should work normal.
Try pumping it few times befor you bleed again.
Also, there is no difference if the car is on the floor or on jack stand from the clutch point of view. The palican instructions comes from safety point of view.