CV Axle Removal Help
 

I'm removing both CV axles to replace the rubber boots. Everything came apart without too much trouble, the inner joints are disconnected from the transmission, and the axle is loose in the hub. However, I can't seem to remove the lower control arm from the hub (circle on left of picture). It is loose but I'm having trouble pushing it down far enough for it to clear the bottom of the hub so that I can pull the hub out to remove the cv axle.

I read Pedro's write up at least ten times over the last couple of weeks. I had thought about removing the inner mounting bolt for the control arm (circle on right of picture) but I think this might be just a slippery slope and I would also have to remove the track arm as well. Any suggestions?

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too much work. disconnect the mid-pipe (don't need to actually remove it, just drop it) and put a jack under the wheel carrier. compres the suspension and you should have enough room to pull the axle out.

Thank you! That worked a treat. I ended up just removing the mid-pipes and the CV axles slipped right out. Now for the dirty, greasy part ... Thanks again.

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just a hint : use the correct clamps(Pelican) and use an effective tool to secure/tighten them.If the clamps slip off while driving and you don't notice the grease on the exhaust/the mess ......
Oetiker ear clamps
http://www.amazon.com/Oetiker-14100083-Side-Jaw-formerly-Plastic-Coated/dp/B0037QFNJM

On a 1998 car, is it possible to replace the outer boot w/o buying a whole new axle? Someone told me the crimped-on ring makes that impossible. Pelican has an "axle boot replacement kit" but is it inner or outer (or either) ? The detail picture looks like it's describing the inner boot.

Porsche Boxster (1997-2004) - Axles, Bearings & Differential - Page 2

Thanks for the hint. I have my four OEM axle boot kits, special clamp pliers, Swepco CV joint grease, and a couple of extra clamps just in case. I had to replace the CV axle on my DD a couple of months ago. It was a torn boot and the grease was everywhere. It is FWD and of course it had to be the CV axle at the accessory end of the engine so the grease was all over the power steering pump, alternator, and AC compressor.

I was pleasantly surprised at how easy it was to work on the Boxster. This is my first serious maintenance job on the car. Everything was simple to disassemble and most of the fasteners were readily accessible. When TheRadiumKing suggested disconnecting the mid-pipe I sort of groaned and had flashbacks of broken exhaust studs and rounded exhaust bolts. But it all went without a hitch after a liberal application of PB Blaster.

I don't know maybe it was just that I was more relaxed knowing this isn't my daily driver and I didn't have to make sure everything was finished before Monday morning. Or maybe those engineers in Germany really did their homework? Or maybe it's a combination of both?

Never found where to drop the exhaust - everything was coated in rust (could not find any pics directing me). I spent the time, aggravation and language to drop both arms (ball joints) to get the axle out.

Now to figure out how to remove the joint from the shaft ....

Both boots can be changed working from the inside end of the shaft see Pedro's DIY
Replace the CVJ Boots & Half Axles

The DSS replacement axle comes with an axle nut but no washer ... Am I to use this without a washer?

Pelican confirmed that you can use it without a washer - it's designed to lock when used once.