rear wheel bearing
 

Hello guys.
in the middle of replacing rear wheel bearings on 01S.
using the sir tool to remove the hub, the hub came out with the inner race of the bearing still attached to it.
not sure if i did something wrong, or the bearing was so bad that it fall apart.
anyway, i'm on my way now to the local autozone or HF to look for a puller that might help. i noticed two grooves on the hub so i assume some sort of a puller will fit in there.
if you got any ideas how to remove it, it will be appreciated.
thanks in advance.
Meir.
http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01/Hub1450297310.jpg

Rear wheel bearing replacement
 

Hello Meir
I just seen your post. One place you could have a look is Pelican Parts. I went to their site and they have it all explained there. They have one photo showing the bearing just how yours is with a two prong puller dragging it off.

yes.
thank you very much for the reply.
you are probably referring to this picture:



http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1450305585.jpg


i was kind of hoping to pick something local and finish it today. :(
i got few generic pullers, butt none of them worked.
i have a transmissions rebuild shop close to my office. i will probably stop there tomorrow, and see if they could pull it out for me.

looked at the pelican website, and they do not offer this puller for sale.
i wonder if something like that might work.

http://www.amazon.com/ATD-Tools-3056-Bar-Type-Separator/dp/B004IQ8RMU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1450306748&sr=8-1&keywords=bearing+puller

Puller
 

It looks to me like there are no hooks. I don't think those round disc's would be up to it, also don't think they would fit either and it all looks a bit lightweight as well. Take your hub to the place near you and see what they have got first.

The tool pictured in this post is what you need to start the race off. Then a 2 or 3 arm puller or a press to finish the job.

I replaced the front bearings last week on my Honda Odyssey. Both hubs came off with the inner race, just like yours. I found a tip that suggested to use a dermal tool with a metal cutting wheel and make a cut across the race about an eighth of an inch deep, in two or three places. Try to cut as deep as you can without cutting through to the hub. Once you have scored the race, take a chisel, setting it into the groove that you have cut. A couple good wacks with a hammer will break it through completely. In my case, one groove was enough to loosen the bearing enough to slide it off. If necessary, you may have to cut a second or third groove. This technique was easy and worked like a charm.

Here is what the cut should look likehttp://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1450312029.jpg

Success!
guys, thank you very much for your comments.
after posting my comments, and having a cold drink (it's 87 degrees today), i went back to the shop, and try something else.
i took parts from two different pullers, and created a new one.
i had to modify it a bit, by grinding the arms.

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01/11450312666.jpg

once i got it moving, i had the space to go in with the 3 hands puller, just like Deadeye suggested.


http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01/21450312840.jpg

you are probably right.
i think this one will make a better fit for this job.

http://www.amazon.com/OTC-4534-Multipurpose-Bearing-Pulley/dp/B00061SM9E/ref=pd_bxgy_263_img_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=1FERVKZW75R1X CQ0RGE4

added to my amzon wishlist, as im sure i will have to do this job again one day :D

that is a very good idea.

Meir,
You seem to be getting deeper into the mechanical bowels of the Boxster with each post !Well done and thanks for sharing.
So let me anticipate one of your future posts and suggest a better puller ?
Eventually you are going to need to replace a bearing and maybe 2nd gear in the 6 speed gearbox. For that you need a puller that coincidentally would work on the hub but is also about the only one that fits for the gearbox.It is a Kukko slender arm puller KK 20-10-S
http://www.amazon.com/Kukko-KK20-10-Slender-Adjusting-Puller/dp/B00D8VL11A
A cheaper alternative that may work is:
12 PC New Car Repair Tools Universal Puller Set Two Arms Pulley Remover N008341 | eBay
The 'dremel-tool' technique mentioned earlier certainly works but requires great care.
When fitting the new bearing, remember the freezer/oven technique to avoid damage.
Are you doing the CV boots also?
Keep us posted.

thank you very much Gelbster.
added the tool to my wish list.
bearing are seating in the freezer for few days now :D
i rebuilt the axles (boots and joints) about 15k miles ago, and they still look good.
i hope to finish it tomorrow, and find the time to make a nice write up.
i was very surprised to see that there is no instructions or videos online for this procedure, using the SIR tool.
its very easy once you figure it out, but it is some what of a jigsaw Puzzle.

Hello guys.
due to lack of time, i never got around to update this thread, and do the write-up as i wanted to.
i will try to add some pictures and explanation to the thread, and maybe one day will find the time to make a PDF document of the full procedure.

the first step after removing the axle, is to remove the hub.
use the SIR tool as described in page #1 in the manual.

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1460259467.jpg

i know that some succeeded in installing the "horseshoe" part without removing the e-brake pads. didn't work for me.

this is the setup from the front.

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1460259999.jpg

and from the back

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1460260254.jpg

when the hub comes out, the bearing will brake apart and the inner race will stay on the bearing.

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1460260489.jpg

the hub has to grooves in it, that will allow you to insert the hands of the bearing puller, as described in earlier posts in this thread.
once removing the inner race of the bearing from the hubs, i placed the hubs in the freezer.

this is how it looks with the hub removed.

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1460261238.jpg

remove the 4 screws and the retaining plate, and continue to bearing removal.

this is the setup of the tool for bearing removal.

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1460260899.jpg

this is to illustrate the order of the parts with relation to the bearing. picture was taken after the bereang was already
removed.

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1460260929.jpg

this is how the setup looks from the front

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1460261368.jpg

and from the back


http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1460261422.jpg

VERY IMPORTANT! make sure all parts of the tool are perfectly aligned with the outer and inner races of the bearing respectively, before you start wrenching. not easy when you need to hold all the parts and wrench on both sides. the tool is also pretty heavy.
if you have someone who can help you, that will be great. this is one of these projects where another set of hands is a bless.

this is the setup for installing the new bearing.

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1460262503.jpg

the setup of the tool is very similar to the removing setup, but part #14 is replaced by the installation washer and the orientation of the tool is reversed.
this is how it looks from the front

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1460262823.jpg

and this is from the back

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1460262871.jpg

before i started wrenching, i made sure the bearing is totally squarer with the bearing housing.
i took the bearing out of the freezer and lightly taped it with a rubber mallet, before i put the tool over it, so basically the bearing was slightly inserted, and hanging by itself in the housing.

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1460263340.jpg

i made sure the plate is touching the housing, and the bearing is totally inserted and flush with the surface.

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1460263494.jpg


http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1460263900.jpg

after having the first bearing in, that was the point i made a horrible mistake.
the next step after inserting the bearing should be to reinstall the retaining plate. i forgot to do that, and continued with installing the hub.
i ended up repeating the whole process from the beginning :mad:
removing the hub, removing the inner race from the hub and removing the bearing from the housing.
boy. that was a long day.
obviously, i also needed a new bearing.
lucky for me, i live 2 minutes drive from tuneRS (literally)so i gave the call.
they didn't have the bearing in hand, but was kind enough to order it for me.
the guy gave me a call in about an hour, and i picked it up.
so its good opportunity to thank the guys at tuneRS, for saving me the trip to the stealership.

installing the hub tool setup.

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1460266875.jpg

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1460267176.jpg

pretty straight foreword.

from the front

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1460267130.jpg

from the back

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1460267158.jpg

that's about it.
let me know if you have any questions.
for me, this project was most challenging due to the fact i wasn't 100 percent prepared.
pulling the inner race of the bearing without the right tool was probably the hardest part, and having to repeat it because i forgot to install the retraining plate, was very frustrating.
took me couple of days to recover from all that heavy wrenching, but after all (and like always) it was another good learning experience that i enjoyed very much.

How did you get the axle out while leaving what looks like most of the rear suspension attached? I had to disconnect everything but the strut and the whom thing is flopping around and hard to hold still while I use the tool?

Great pictures btw!

Hi Steve.
i removed the diagonal brace and plate, and the cats.
once the cats are out of the way, you can remove the axle from the car.
i noticed that almost in every project it helps a lot to have that space.
after doing it so many time, it takes me exactly 5 minutes to take of or put on.
however, i have a lift, so that makes things easier.

Ahhh... My mid pipes are still on...i may remove them for the other side...

Any info on the e brake assembly? you completely removed them to do this correct??

I used the SIR tool, and needed to remove the e-brake pads. PITA to put them back.
Did it on the S model, so I cannot confirm it is needed on the base as well.
Basically the hors shoe part of tool did not fit between the pads and the hub.

When I replaced the rear bearings (using a bearing tool kit), I didn't have to remove the parking brake cable since the hub housing remained in place..

Correct. The cables stays. But did you removed the pads (aka shoes)?

Hello Meir,

Yes, you remove everything (axle, parking brake shoes, etc.,).

Since I wanted to leave the hub carrier in place, for the first bearing, I used a 'borrowed' hub puller from Autozone that is very effective but physically demanding (at least for me..), then I got from HF a 'bearing tool kit' as recommended by one of the members on this forum and that made the job much easier.

For the front bearings you need to use the hub puller unless you remove the strut assembly as there is no room for the bearing tool.

Good luck!

I've done 30-40 bearings over the last 10+yrs.. I always use heat (as the factory manual suggest) The one time I didn't use heat? I broke a 996RSR front upright.

Thought I'd leave this tidbit here for review. Per the factory manual:

http://ieautosport.com/pics/forforums/Image4.jpg

Did the repair last winter. Driver side was noisy, found out that a ball was missing in what appears to be the factory bearing... Then the pass side, I pressed a new bearing then a hub without a retainer plate... so I pulled the hub out and noticed that it was rather loose fit, even though the frozen hub got warmer at this point. I bolted up the retainer quick then pressed the hub again and it was still not tight, I could press in and out by hands without the tools. I felt something was wrong, so checked the dimension and bearing ID was about 0.02mm larger than original ones... so ordered a few new ones just in case and it was in fact running larger than others. I put new one in and it fit tight. Heat/ chill helps press-out/ in but be sure to check tightness once the temp settles. Watch quality of FAG bearings.

Did you have to remove the ABS sensor from the hub? Gilles had recommended removal of the ABS sensor and am wondering why this would be necessary didn't think the sensor really contacted the hub or race? I have replaced one and found impossible to remove without damaging it getting the sensor out of the hub. I appreciate all the responses/advice I have gotten but I am trying to understand this process without making more problems for myself.

The tip of the sensor is kind of fragile, I broke one of mine by being careless and they are not cheap..

I removed mine to avoid damages from bearing tools and banging around the axle. Easy to do, just one bolt and pulls right out.

I just completed replacing the 2 inner CV joints, rear wheel bearings, ebrake shoes, coffin bar, track bar, rear lower suspension bar, shocks, springs, swaybar bushings, drop links, just about anything that moves in the rear suspension. I did not remove the bearing carrier from the car, I did not remove cats. I did remove the diagonal braces and skid plate. I found a YouTube video posted for removing the rear shock assembly. you remove the bold holding the coffin bar to the chassis along with the bolt holding the lower rear bar. These bolts have the adjusting cam for alignment. Also removed the big nut at the end of the axle holding the hub on. When you remove the 6 bolts holding the inner cv joint to the trans the whole assemble swings out and you can remove the axle. Here is the link to the video. "2000 Porsche Boxster Easy Rear Strut Replacement" by OKC vet

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UYuNWXQ_8iI&list=PL9ovuomDL9znaLh6TdzcLczk ofmEt7-2_&index=4

n00b attempting bearing replacement
 

Excellent thread going here. Just this past weekend I replaced all four struts, lower control arms and the things that go from strut to front sway bar. Anyway, I thought that would fix the insane grinding sound I get when aggressively taking corners. It didn't. After I took it to get aligned today the guy at my alignment shop said that the thumping noise I was getting was caused by a bad left rear bearing. So I figured I could replace it. I have access to a shop with practically every piece of mechanical kit and lifts known. My son and I did the change in 8 hours but we were beat.

Finally, my question. How technical is the bearing pull/replacement? I have decided to park the 2000S until I get the bearings in because the thumping of the left rear is only getting louder and more distressing.

Will I be able to accomplish the pull/replacement in 7 hours for both rear bearings?
Thanks for any and all info.
Thom

I made a very cheap investment years ago for three different sizes of these pullers. Each puller can be changed by turning over the claws. I have used all three on jobs.

Good to have a set!http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1534082138.jpg

Bearing issues
 

This past weekend I swapped out both rear wheel bearings. It was a time consuming effort but really not that difficult as long as you have the CORRECT bearings. Thanks to Scott at PelicanParts.com I was able to get the correct bearings AFTER ordering the others from another online discount parts retailer.

The S has different wheel bearings for front and rear. If you look at most of the online retailers they will not show a difference for the front or rears even when designating the S model.
Since I had the hub all disassembled I swapped out new parking brake shoes too. However, now I have the shoes rubbing even after adjusting them twice according to th Bentley manual.

Does anyone have any idea how long that rubbing will last?

Thanks
Thom

I had a similar problem after having the shoe stick to the drum after a hot session and pulling parking brake. Was able to unstick pretty easily, but ended up having to loosen up the adjustment a couple of times because it would grind in aggressive turns. Too loose or too tight is not good.