What type of oil filter do you use
 

Not to start a new oil or oil filter thread, but it would be interesting to see what type of oil filter people are using

I split it into:

Factory cartridge filter
Spin on with adaptor

Under each type of filter, what kind of driving you do

No Autocross (AX) or track
AX
Track
Both AX & Track

Feel free to comment away, but do make a poll selection

I started using the spin on filter two oil changes ago. It seems to work well although I haven't bought the tool to open up the metal filter yet. My problem with LN is the magnetic oil drain plug. Mine stated leaking a while back. I read on here that they don't like to be over torqued. I figured that I over torqued it since I didn't use a torque wrench last time I changed the oil. So I got a new one and torqued it to 19 ft lbs. Well the new one leaks too. I used a new aluminum washer. Maybe i should try a copper washer next time.

I voted spin on with adapter, both track and autocross use. I'm using the Wix 51042 filter. I'm wondering what the differences/improvements are between the regular 51042 and the 51042XP. Bu I've been pretty happy with the 51042 and still have one left from my last semi-bulk order of 5.

Steve

LN Engineering spin-on adapter and Napa Gold or Platinum filters - whichever are on sale. I also use a magnetic oil drain plug from ECS Tuning. I've had to replace one also due to an overzealous Tech. Stripped the hex threading on the head. I guess better the plug be too soft than risking the pan. Mobil 1 ('bout fainted when I discovered the lil' bugger holds NINE quarts). Been using Blackstone Labs for oil analysis.

I want to further research those Filter Mags I've seen mentioned in similar threads.

Spin-on with reusable stainless mesh 40 micron filter. The cartridge also has a large neodymium magnet built in. ;)

I was skeptical at first, but after much research, paper filters quickly deteriorate and allow particles as large as 90-95 microns through, despite their claims.

LN Engineering? How easy is it to clean the magnet?

The spin-on adapter is LN, but the reusable cartridge/filter is a Professional Products Powerfilter.
It's really simple to clean: I just soak it in the sink with some hot water and Dawn dish soap for a few minutes, then spray it out with hot water and the sinks spray attachment.

I was thinking the magnet and any ferrous material that might be on it. Can it be reached to physically wipe it clean?

Sleeping easier with an LN spin on adapter, Napa Gold 1042 filter and LN magnetic drain plug

Bloody bypass valve, what were they thinking?
Too much Jägermeister...

Sorry, I misread. The magnet and its frame come out for easy cleaning. ;)

Edit: here is a picture of it disassembled when I first bought it. The magnet and frame are on the right. I may have overstated by calling it large, but it's a powerful neodymium and plenty big enough. ;)

http://i875.photobucket.com/albums/a...9CEC31AD_2.jpg

http://i875.photobucket.com/albums/a...BB60402B01.jpg

Nice! You guys are gonna crush my Xmas bonus.

I saw that nobody was voting "factory", so I joined in.
No Autocross or track yet, but I plan on starting up in the spring. I was going to do some oil changing this weekend, but now because of this thread I have to wait for the magnetic drain plugs I just ordered. Planning to buy the LN spin-ons next year.

Has anybody used the Mann oil filters for the spin on adaptor?
I see Pelican lists them along with the LN (Napa?) filters, but at half the cost, so because I have to import the filters into Australia (add $50 delivery cost), I was wondering if the Mann's were as good quality as the rest of the Mann air / cabin filters which I have used in the past.
No details that I can find in the Mann catalogue as to filter micron density either.....

Have been strongly considering the LN spin on adapter but hesitating since it will make inspecting the filter element more difficult. What is everyone doing to break the spin on apart to inspect?

Charles, what does that filter cost?

I bought it and the spin-on adapter from another member...$150 for both. New, they run $100-$125, so they are definitely not cheap and would take quite a while to "pay for itself" in savings on filter cost.

I'm a simple factory filter guy (Mahle) with combined highway/track use (drive to/from track events to race, that's it). But with almost continual track use, I also change the oil every 90 days.

This is what I use to cut mine apart. Does not create any metal particles while cutting.

OEM/Tail Pipe Cutter 27045 - Read 4 Reviews on OEM #27045

You cut it open with one of these...

Amazon.com: Longacre Oil Filter Cutter (LA77750): Automotive

Personally, I'd rather send off a sample of used oil for analysis. More money in the end, but you know exactly what's going on in the motor. They can measure stuff you're not likely to see and they keep a history of all your tests, so any spike stands out.

Try a filter magnet hack by re-purposing old neodymium hard drive magnets ? Lots if you Google it.